displaying posts 1 to 13 of 13

Author Subject: Metal paints
dangti6

aka JKshooter

Location: Taunton, Somerset

Registered: 15 Jun 2006

Posts: 10,305

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Post #1
What do people find works well with regards to painting metal items such as trailing arms, beam tubes, hubs etc etc.

I've a fairly broad selection of brush on Hammerite smooth colours in tins at hand from when they knocked it out cheap at Halfords. Admittidly at that time I hadn't used it before and though it was the business so bought loads regardless thinking it would come in useful eventually.

My first hand experience of it was on some wishbones. I wirebrushed them and popped a couple of coats of satin black smooth on them. I soon learnt the paint is very thin and if the metal is too clean it will literally wipe off with the paintbrush. I carried on though and they came out fine - my faith in Hammerite products was restored.. Momentarily.

Next up were some rear disc protectors in good condition which I was going to rescue to save buying new ones. Again I got the wire wheel drill attachment and after a good ten minutes or so in a confined shed with no mask or goggles I had a face like a hedgehog and a post nose full of s**te that I was blowing out all evening. I considered what my lungs probably looked like, but moved on to the knot wheel on a grinder to get the job done. After using my feet as a vice and the knot wheel nearly embedded in my shin when it caught the edge of the protector, I decided the finish was good enough and selected some paint. I picked gold for this. After doing half I gave up as it was s**t.

I then picked out my Hammerite red oxide tin and slapped some of that on. It went on lovely. Faith once again restored so I went over my main beam brackets with the wire wheels and slopped some red oxide on those too. At this stage I was relieved to think that red oxide as a primer would be the way forwards. This was until I brushed some black satin over it and did the aforementioned rubbing paint over the surface. I decided a key would be a good idea, so went over them with some sand paper which did help, but not massively. I gave up at 3 coats and they are still showing signs of red underneath in places.

I have some yellow brush on Hammerite which I had my eye on for the beam tube, but again that's been lovingly rubbed down and I fear I am going to need 36 coats.


My initial thoughts are perhaps I should be spraying instead of brushing? Is the fact I have done this in the cold making matters that much worse? I brushed some Hammerite on to an old rusty part and it loved it - is this where I am going wrong? - is it that it just doesn't like clean metal?

Suggestions, recommendations and bullying welcome.



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  • Posted 16th Apr 2013 at 19:50
    phillipm

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    Location: Rotherham

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    Post #2
    It's not great in the scheme of things, but it does work if you give the metal a good key for it to bite into - 40 to 60 grit sandpaper first...and make sure it's damned well mixed before you apply it, it seperates and settles in the tin.

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    Posted 16th Apr 2013 at 19:53
    dangti6

    aka JKshooter

    Location: Taunton, Somerset

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    Post #3
    40/60 - Noted.

    Yeah the whole mixed well thing didn't really happen. I coudn't find an appropriate stick at hand to stir it with so resorted to a subframe bolt which remarkably took on half the f**king tin through the threads.

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  • Posted 16th Apr 2013 at 20:01
    jord294

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    Location: somewhere in north wales

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    Post #4
    what's wrong with powdercoating?

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    Posted 16th Apr 2013 at 20:12
    welshpug!

    Capt Pedantic

    Location: Bigend, Wales.

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    Post #5
    we call it hammers**te.

    nowt wrong with the rustic "it works" look Big grin

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    Posted 16th Apr 2013 at 20:19
    dangti6

    aka JKshooter

    Location: Taunton, Somerset

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    Post #6
    I wanted to stay away from powder coating due to the cost. Based on what I paid for a Caterham beam tube to be done a while back, with trailing arms, protectors etc etc I imagine it would be in the £80 region - which I personally would rather spend elsewhere when it will rarely be seen and would make the rest of the underneath look worse in comparison.

    I just want something that goes on nicely to tart it up a bit while I am there assembling it.

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  • Posted 16th Apr 2013 at 20:25
    beez_neez_gt

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    Location: @ de limit of adhesion !

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    Post #7
    Powder coating although is an epoxy susbstance its just one layer unless you also have the primer powder coating too.

    http://www.baysidemarine.co.uk/jotun-jotamastic-87-epoxy-primer-47-litres-2241-p.asp

    The above 2k marine high solid can be safely sprayed as it dont contain any isosayoantes sp, as long as you have a decent mask. It can be thinned down using 2k thinners and has summer and winter hardener for ease of use. It lasts me ages especially being thinned after you have mixed harder up. As it has high solid content you can sand down rust pits for a neat finish and will last ages in water let alone on a car. It is flexible as well.

    Check out the product data before use, iv found it very easy to use and never had any issues with it unlike some 1k paints and powder coating. You can even spray it when surface has a medium amount of surface rust too, its a strong all rounder and not a bad price either.

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    Posted 16th Apr 2013 at 20:26
    dangti6

    aka JKshooter

    Location: Taunton, Somerset

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    Post #8
    Thanks George, but I should mention - unfortunately I don't have the facilities to use a spray gun.

    I am after a magic paint in a tin which I can brush on which sticks like s**t to a blanket - surely it exists?

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  • Posted 16th Apr 2013 at 20:32
    coskev

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    Location: Oswestry

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    Post #9
    Look at the link 2 PacLOL has put above,it can be sprayed/brushed/rolleredThumbs up

    I have used Epoxy Mastic121 in the past,a two part paint,which was not as good as Rust Bullet which is my preferred paint nowWink
    Its not cheap thoughNo

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    Posted 16th Apr 2013 at 20:59
    jamiek_uk2000

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    Post #10
    Rust bullet sticks to anything, but at £30 a tub it isn't the best option for primer. Sticks to anything

    My glove ripped applying it and I've had one silver fingernail for about 4 weeks now, It's nowhere near coming off either, I've tried everything lol

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    Posted 16th Apr 2013 at 21:36
    beez_neez_gt

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    Post #11
    Do you have any industries that use rust bullet or is it just a paint used by the public?

    Yes im sure people can read that it can be rollered on, no need to mention it bar the stuff i already have.

    Seems silly saying mastic is not as good with nothing to back this claim up bar your own preference. I have used rust bullet but its not flexible and it takes a long time to show either has the real longivity, epoxy used by commercial industries. Jotun isnt the usual epoxy primer its used for ships etc, not the same as coskev has used im sure.

    Rust bullet would be your best bet just a shame you would need to take out a mortage to buy it.

    For price, rust protecton its the zinc primer from Bilt Hamber, then hammerite top coat for the looks, cheap yet effective enough i guess. Zinc primer will cope with small amounts of rust in pits etc, powder coating wont as much especially with cast iron.

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    Posted 16th Apr 2013 at 21:52
    coskev

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    Post #12
    Jesus your a knob!LOL

    I stated it could be rollered/brushed on due to Dan's reply below:

    dangti6 wrote:
    Thanks George, but I should mention - unfortunately I don't have the facilities to use a spray gun.

    I am after a magic paint in a tin which I can brush on which sticks like s**t to a blanket - surely it exists?


    I'm not saying all Epoxy products don't work,I've used Epoxy Mastic121 and have found it is not as good as Rust BulletThumbs up

    Read replies properly if your going to try to be a clever dickThumbs up

    Never looked into if any industries use Rust Bullet,the Automotive stuff I use I can't see being usedDunno

    One user on the MLR posted this though:

    Originally Posted by RabRS View Post
    Simon. You will not find better than rust bullet. I paint the inside of main sea water pipes with it. It last 5 years in there. Should last 20+ on the bottom of a car!


    So I presume some industries use it.

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    Posted 16th Apr 2013 at 22:27
    beez_neez_gt

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    Post #13
    Jesus isnt a nob he is gods son my dear chap.

    Post 13's experience wasnt good, i have never found anyone have any problems with the industry used Jotun range.

    http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=39590&highlight=rust+bullet&page=2

    These guys know their coatings, one has the same look and condition as it was when first applied, over ten years ago. The price of rust bullet is what put me off and rust pits wont be as easy to get rid of but thick jotun epoxy will be.

    People can use what they like, i use what i know will last the longest no less.

    I have a new can of rust bullet not used, i might sell it as it wont get used.

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    Posted 17th Apr 2013 at 18:04

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