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Author Subject: Oil and Stop light on when hot but only on idle ??? SORTED
bigbadbowen

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Post #1
Hmmm

Ok new problem when car is up to running temp (90 degree on oil, 70-80 on water) I'm getting the oil and stop light coming on at idle and then its flickering on off? soon as i touch the throttle they both go off ?

Have recently changed cam belt and cam pulley for an ally job. Got plenty of oil in the old girl but i will be changing it at a matter of course ?

Anyone got any ideas as to why this is happening ? Bad sensor ? Too thin oil when hot ?

Dunno
Posted 8th Jun 2012 at 23:16
roland rat

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Post #2
What oil you using mate?id say poor sensor/wiring related if flickering on and off
Posted 8th Jun 2012 at 23:19
stan_306gti6 Forum Admin

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Post #3
Did you torque up the bottom pulley when you did the cambelt Chris? If it is an older engine it will not have a keyed slot to run the oil pump drive and will be relying on the tightness of the crank pulley bolt for drive.

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Posted 8th Jun 2012 at 23:21
bigbadbowen

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Post #4
stan_306gti6 wrote:
Did you torque up the bottom pulley when you did the cambelt Chris? If it is an older engine it will not have a keyed slot to run the oil pump drive and will be relying on the tightness of the crank pulley bolt for drive.


Hmmm I was thinking exactly this Stan ? used the windy gun on a compressor as trying to tighten up with a spanner usually turns the engine over ?

Posted 8th Jun 2012 at 23:25
rich_w

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Post #5
stan_306gti6 wrote:
Did you torque up the bottom pulley when you did the cambelt Chris? If it is an older engine it will not have a keyed slot to run the oil pump drive and will be relying on the tightness of the crank pulley bolt for drive.



My bets are on this - what drive windy gun did you use?

They need to be fooking tight!

Smile

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Posted 8th Jun 2012 at 23:31
stan_306gti6 Forum Admin

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Post #6
When I do these, I usually get a mate to put their foot on the brake with the car in 6th gear to lock the engine. Yes

It can only be a few things mate, it's either this issue, a dodgy sensor/wiring or the oil is too thin. Wink

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Posted 8th Jun 2012 at 23:32
bigbadbowen

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Post #7
rich_w wrote:
stan_306gti6 wrote:
Did you torque up the bottom pulley when you did the cambelt Chris? If it is an older engine it will not have a keyed slot to run the oil pump drive and will be relying on the tightness of the crank pulley bolt for drive.



My bets are on this - what drive windy gun did you use?

They need to be fooking tight!

Smile


Half inch drive ?

Posted 8th Jun 2012 at 23:36
bigbadbowen

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Post #8
stan_306gti6 wrote:
When I do these, I usually get a mate to put their foot on the brake with the car in 6th gear to lock the engine. Yes

It can only be a few things mate, it's either this issue, a dodgy sensor/wiring or the oil is too thin. Wink


Checking it over on Sunday won't drive it till then . Changing oil anyway and will tighten up the pulley bolt FT ?

Thumbs up
Posted 8th Jun 2012 at 23:37
stan_306gti6 Forum Admin

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Post #9
I actually undo and do these up using a breaker bar and a very long extension bar Chris. Yes

Also, don't forget to Loctite it. Wink

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Posted 8th Jun 2012 at 23:38
stan_306gti6 Forum Admin

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Post #10
Off the top of my head I think the torque is 130Nm but check it to be sure. Thumbs up

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Posted 8th Jun 2012 at 23:40
bigbadbowen

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Post #11
stan_306gti6 wrote:
Off the top of my head I think the torque is 130Nm but check it to be sure. Thumbs up


Feck that's tight ?

I shall hang off the fecking thing Thumbs up
Posted 8th Jun 2012 at 23:55
stan_306gti6 Forum Admin

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Post #12
It is tight, but as I say in the older style engines this torque was needed as the oil pump drive sprocket relies on this pressure to drive the oil pump. Yes


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Posted 9th Jun 2012 at 07:33
tvrfan007

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Post #13
130 isn't tight, it is 210 on the K series! I usually use a bar as Stan has indicated.

Can also do them by locking the flywheel.

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Posted 9th Jun 2012 at 09:10
welshpug!

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Post #14
I prefer using a torque wrench Thumbs up

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Posted 9th Jun 2012 at 09:17
tvrfan007

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Post #15
I'm guessing this mess is caused because he doesn't have one? Otherwise this is a prime example of why torque settings exist. Doh

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Posted 9th Jun 2012 at 09:21
bigbadbowen

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Post #16
tvrfan007 wrote:
I'm guessing this mess is caused because he doesn't have one? Otherwise this is a prime example of why torque settings exist. Doh


Yup

Don't have one will put my breaker bar on it tomorrow Thumbs up
Posted 9th Jun 2012 at 10:04
welshpug!

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Post #17
BUY ONE!

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Bring on the Trumpets.

Posted 9th Jun 2012 at 10:15
stan_306gti6 Forum Admin

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Post #18
Must admit, it's good practice to keep one handy especially for critical jobs like these. Yes

I don't like the oil pump drive system on the early engines due to this issue. I prefer having the assurance that it's driven via a keyway off the crank and I'm not suddenly going to be left in the middle of nowhere with no oil pressure. Wink

It's not that hard to swap it over to the new system, sump off, cambelt off and remove the front oil seal housing then swap the drive pulley and rebuild. Yes

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Posted 9th Jun 2012 at 11:14
jeffers Forum Admin

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Post #19
stan_306gti6 wrote:
Must admit, it's good practice to keep one handy especially for critical jobs like these. Yes

I don't like the oil pump drive system on the early engines due to this issue. I prefer having the assurance that it's driven via a keyway off the crank and I'm not suddenly going to be left in the middle of nowhere with no oil pressure. Wink

It's not that hard to swap it over to the new system, sump off, cambelt off and remove the front oil seal housing then swap the drive pulley and rebuild. Yes

Plus the drive sprocket is like £17 new from pug, no brainer really!

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Posted 9th Jun 2012 at 13:26
tvrfan007

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Post #20
welshpug! wrote:
BUY ONE!


Indeed!

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Posted 9th Jun 2012 at 15:22
bigbadbowen

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Post #21
Right I have had the breaker bar on this today and it's proper tight so I don't think that's the problem ? Had the car running again , lights on again once water up to and above the half way point ? Oil not warmed up fully, soon as you touch the throttle they both go out ?

I'll change the oil tomorrow and see if that sorts it ? Failing that could the oil pump be on its way out ? Chain can't be snapped surely ?

Could be the presure switch I guess ?
Posted 9th Jun 2012 at 15:34
welshpug!

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Post #22
get a mechanical check done Thumbs up


pump failures are rare, wont be the chain as you do have pressure when revs go up, whip the crank bolt out and make sure its not bottoming out on the nose of the crank.

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Posted 9th Jun 2012 at 15:43
bigbadbowen

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Post #23
If the bolt wasn't tight enough surely the light would be on all the time ?

Ie no pump working ?

Just seems odd that the lights come on once started to warm up and only at idle ?

Posted 9th Jun 2012 at 16:18
stan_306gti6 Forum Admin

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Post #24
Could be the switch itself gone faulty and it's actuating at a higher pressure than it should.

I agree with Welshy, have it mechanically checked first, better safe than sorry. Yes

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Peugeot 306 GTi-6
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Posted 9th Jun 2012 at 16:32
bigbadbowen

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Post #25
Will bang another switch on it tomorrow and drop the oil ? Yes a mechanical check would be good but going to eliminate the obvious first Yes
Posted 9th Jun 2012 at 16:35

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