So as the swirl pots are going to be here soon, I had a think about how to pipe it all as pug use push fits and they do leak sometimes so here is my solution to it, I am going to repipe the whole car.

here is my diagram with dimensions of pipe



The way I got round going from 8 mm to the 10mm on the walbo (not 100 percent sure the walbro have 10mm ends, but ordered one today so will check when it arrives, or if someone can tell me) is to buy an after market fuel filter, you can have them with different sized ends from tweeks to take it up to ten mil, my only probelm with that is that the filter now behind the pump, is that ok to suck not push it through the filter?

to go from the 6mm on the pump to 8mm on the swirl pot I am going to get some brass reducers made up like so



I am sorry I only have paint and I cant draw.

If i cant have the filter behind the pump, ill get a 10mm both end filter and another reducer going from 10mm to 8mm to sort it.

I am looking at ordering 5m of 10mm braided pipe, 5m of 8mm pipe and 2m of 6mm pipe. thats more than enough but no point running out, if anyone else likes the look of this let me know and I can order more stuff, still waiting for a price on the pipe

That sounds very expensive

Try these

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Braided-Fuel-Hose-RACE-RALLY-Aeroquip-goodridge-earls_W0QQitemZ290263996255QQihZ019QQcategoryZ72205QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem

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Got my fuel pump on friday, I only bloody ordered it tuesday afternoon so am well chuffed with the service from Import blowouts.
Came in at $115 for the pump, with is about

So last couple of days did a few more bits.
Removed the rest of the valves, cleaned them all and checked they there straight and measured all the stems to check for wear, all good so Am a happy bunny.
Gave the head a good wash and now need to send it to get skimmed and tested.
Then turned my attentions to the swirl pot, fitted the pump and pulmed the feed to it in

Then drilled the holes, (did it by laying the pot in the boot, so much easier) and offered it up under the car.
Getting all the nuts and bolts on ur own s a right pain, seriously recommend getting a friend to help.


Started wiring in the relay in the bonnet to run the pump, but cant find the feed, will have another look at the weekend.

I cant find the feed, I put the relay in the black box in the engine bay.
The haynes manual says its fuse 15 in that box, but there no continuity from there to the pump.
Any ideas

I'm pretty sure the power from the fuse box goes into the dual relay behind the battery box, and then out from there to the actual pump. Pin 7 springs to mind for some reason but not 100%.

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I'm guessing as i've not looked at it, but the ignition turns on the pump does it not?
But saying that if there's no power to switch the relay then you'd still have no continuity. I think that's what Sean is getting at

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Its not like that on the diagram, but will check saturday

Is that right Chris?

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Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
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The die grinder hasn't arrived yet so you may end up doing it all by hand! (not for the first time! )

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R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.

Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
Engine mount/chassis repair
Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION
Harness bars

id be careful porting your own head chris, very easy to f*ck it up if you dont know what your doing. I wouldn't bother tbh. Polishing it might help but the turbulance created in the air as it enters the rough ports in the head will create a better burn anyway. You'd be better off just having 3 angle valve seats cut. Helps let more air in on opening and helps to cool the valve when shut.

Not too smooth, keep it at 40 grit or lower.

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So another weekend and a bit more work done.
First off fitted the relay and all wired in.
In the end took the feed off of the blue wire off of fuse 09. Checked it on another car and it looks like its the right one.
Secondly got some central heating flushing solution and the head is now being soaked in it to deschale it all etc, been in a day now, will get it out tomorrow probably.
Also refitted the Throttle cable and clutch cable. So much easier with the engine out, but throttle a pain getting it through the double skinned bulk head, but all done.
Also took the throttle body apart and thinned out the spindle, probably not needed but easy to do and cant do any harm. will post some pics later.