Hi Jon
Have pm'd you, but I'm afraid I can't help with your issue.
Cheers
Iain

They are meant to be high in the arches as they are a rally car, so will have long travel suspension, the engine position was not changed in the rally cars as far as I know at all.

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Bring on the Trumpets.

Have you tubbed your inner arches so that you can get suspention that will allow go much lower?

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Proud Member of the ASTOR Owners Club

http://www.satchellengineering.co.uk/

https://www.maximotorsport.com/products.php?directory=products/Peugeot/Peugeot%20306

________________________________________

need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

Bring on the Trumpets.

Hi. Sorry can be the translator I'll open another page with my problems. But that nothing wanted to know how you will widen from pivot trapezes or arms. The black arms of the photo are yours?
Where or on what page do you buy the material? Could you pass Link to buy? thanks for everything. And eborabuhena for your great project.

Jon, Alan Dent made them for me;
http://www.alachi57.com/6.html
Contact him and ask for "double adjustable 306 maxi width wishbones" the same as mine.
You will need to know if you have 16 or 18mm ball joint pin on your uprights.

He also sells track rod extenders for your steering arms if you need them.

Cheers
Iain

Sorry it's not a constructive post. But as far as translated messages go, that's a winner right there!!!!

Right then, so where were we?
Rear brakes on, studs in and thread locked.



Hang a cheeky pair of wheels on for s**ts and giggles. Looks like it's mid jump..



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Had to resist temptation to lower the back end down to see how it looked under compression..

Time to sort the front end out now. Needed to start with reinforcing the turret tops. This I did with 3mm steel seem welded around the outer perimeter. Had lots of conversations about doing on top, going under etc. Had a lot more surface area on top due to the way the turret is constructed, plus there's still a fair bit of the original turret top held in a sandwich between the top mount and the new turret top.

A rough approximation of the top mount in the existing turret top, which had been cut out for the extra track required. (It didn't quite end up in this spot, but shows the cut)



From underneath, with the new turret top overlaid



Upper side laid on, ready to start welding.



Pic of the NS one welded up



Used Zinc 182 primer, then rust proof chassis paint, then top coats, then oil and heat resistant lacquer on these! Then fitted the top mounts. Something else ticked off the to do list, and something else off the bench in the garage and on the car.



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Somewhere along the line in the last few weeks I built up my subframe and wishbones. Confirmed I definitely won't be trying the OEM ARB in this initial evolution, and I don't want to mount it below the compression strut either. Will look at another solution once I decide if I need to run one.



Where the ARB wants to be, is where the comp strut is..



The plan is to lift the subframe in position once I have sorted the VTS ph2 rack plumbing.
The standard hose arrangement all around the sump and subframe is a joke so I have no intention of using the ph2 plumbing for the push fit connections in the rack. Especially as the PAS pump is relocated in the normal spot.

Instead I am getting these little fellas welded in and should be able to collect them tomorrow.



Wayne's going for the thread tapping option for a similar solution, so we'll see how both options work out. I did try and swap over the PAS pinion housing with the GTI6 one in order to retain the threaded fittings, but they don't swap. Looked close for a moment, but would have been more difficult for little gain.



Once I get the housing back welded up, I can look at making up hoses, or maybe getting some made to spec, with a shorter run to the pump with any luck.

Also been making some carbon kevlar stone guards for inside the rear arches. Thought I'd try an epoxy resin with more flex built in and see how it was. Laid everything up on glass and used plasticine to build in some relief into the panel to control where it flexed.



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Turned out well..



You can see the flex in the panel. This was straight after being pulled (hence the plasticine remnants).



Although more flexible than I would prefer (it will be excellent for the splitter if laid up two ply) it'll still work fine, and it cuts really well so I can shape it to the right dimensions. Will do something similar either out of kevlar or carbon kevlar for the other side, then go to the fronts.

I'm also assembling the bits I need to make the arch guards a la Wayne, using acrylic to mold the shape, but I'll incorporate a retaining edge and look at sealing the gap to the inside of the rear qtr panels and front wings - I'm not so weight conscious here - but also a bit wary of any movement abrading the kevlar.

Cheers for now
Iain

Coming on nicely

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Thanks for the comments Gents; Mark your car is looking good!

Had a full day on the car today. Been collecting a few bits and bobs too, and getting a few jobs done.
I had hoped today would be putting the rack on the subframe now I've got the AN fittings done (and also the longer GTI6 track rod arms on in place of the VTS ones) but when I saw the weather this morning I thought better of lying on my back in a puddle.

So I put the EZ up, up, and weathered the storm. Decided to focus on the new rad I've bought and look at fitment, oil cooler, fan etc and also take a look at the high pressure PAS hose from pump to rack.

This was where I started.



So old rad out, oil cooler out (doing an oil change anyway), and offered up the new rad. Just an eBay special 205GTI alloy job. The passenger side foot sits in an existing hole just inside the original, so that's an easy swap. Then line up and drill and new hole for the driver's side foot.



Then I looked at the mounting on the top of the rad. Obviously the slam panel is being cut out for the maxi airbox (hence the lower rad in the first place), so I will mount the rad at the side of the front cross member legs using a rubber bobbin.



Here on the driver's side I'm measuring up the gap from side tank of the rad to the bobbin, and I'll ask the alloy welder I know to make some brackets on each side of the rad to fit to the bobbin.

Also on the rad, both the inlet at the top and outlet down the bottom are 32mm. My hoses are 38mm Spoox jobs, so I need to make the two meet. I'd also quite like to get rid of the 90 deg bend in the inlet, and just have it straight to the hose. I looked into some other bits and bobs I had lying around to see if it would fit, and hose joiners etc but if I can weld on an alloy 38-32mm reducer to each outlet then all I need is to join my existing hoses up. Car builder solutions do them, so that looks like the best bet if the alloy is sufficiently good to weld.





So at this point I was offering up the new 10" Spal fan, etc to see how it would all fit. I chopped the slam panel, and just happened to find a nearly new 19 row Mocal oil cooler in a box of bits in the garage as you do, so my old 16row cooler is now redundant. This was an initial look;



Basically happy with that, but proceeded to try all sorts of cooler positions looking at the combo of hose access to the sandwich plate along with bracket options. It's just a little too tall to mount as I would like (like the old one), but instead of going upside down like the pic, I'll probably keep it the right way up, and I think some brackets of the front cross member will do fine.

So now turned my attention to the PAS hose. It always irked me how long a run the OEM hose takes under the sump etc etc, so with it being relocated anyway, I wanted to look into a doing a short run under the drivers side chassis rail like the coolant hose.

First up undid the hose and looked to see how it would bend away from the alternator belt and see if it could follow my intended path.



It looks do-able using this hose; although I would make it's own hole in the cross member leg by enlarging the existing one just above the coolant hose hole.

I then had a look if -6 would bend..



Obviously it's just offered up but I think it will do. What I'll do next is investigate if a company like Pirtek could make something with a longer custom (steel) bend in it, that would bend round tighter before joining to a hose before making it's way back to the rack.

I think I can get the rad brackets and outlets done this week, but getting the hose done is less likely.

Inevitably as the cross member and the driver's side inner arch panel are the only ones I haven't tackled yet during the project, now's the time to do a bit of de-rusting so in my last hour tonight I did a bit of sanding, (the spot welds in particular) and did some liberal de-rusting using the Bilt Hamber product again to leave it to pick up next time, with primer and paint then as the rad and hoses come together I should have everything ready.



The only missing part of the jigsaw is header tank and filler hose. I'll probably get a universal alloy job. It took me a while to figure out how folk that do the 306 - 205 conversions tackle the filling from the header tank. I have seen since that Spoox even do a specific heater matrix hose with an integrated filler hose teed into it, but having seen it, I should be able to just get an alloy T piece and splice it in, and the header tank can be mounted nice and high on the bulkhead..

Think that's about it for now. Got a new oil catch tank from Ralloy, but not looked at fitting it yet, and also had another play with laying up some carbon kevlar for rear stone guards in the inner wings. Went the whole hog this time with peel ply, absorbant layer and vac bag with valve etc. Turned out really well, was well chuffed..







cheers
Iain

there is a reason the pas hose goes underneath, the front of the engine moves far too much to have a metal pipe going from the bottom edge onto the front panel.

________________________________________

need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

Bring on the Trumpets.

No worries. I don't know whether you saw my hose solutions at all. But I cut down a too radiator hose from a 1.8 16v 306. I just cut the ends off and used it as a push fit hose. Right diameter and went to the right places!

I then used a 90degree hose from BBM attached to the bottom of the rad. Then used an alloy joiner to attach that to a cut down standard hose coming from the rear housing on the back of the engine.

My standard rear metal pip across the back of the block was replaced with a custom made one that I had my plumber mater make up in copper. This did away with the matrix take off as I got rid of the heater. Maybe a few more ideas there!

I think I used the 1.8 16v block on the thermostat for pipes to attach to as it had one less pipe on than standard..