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Author Subject: Quick brake line question?
gnrlee Forum Admin

Location: Leeds

Registered: 20 Aug 2005

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Post #1
I have to replace the metal lines that marry to the flexi pipes at front
But where do I unscrew the other end it seems to disappear off into the engine bay
Do I unscrew them at the back of the bulkhead?

I've never done changed the metal lines before
What's the difficulty rating for doing them?
I've bled brakes before so that side of things doesn't bother me!
I've already decided on standard pug ready fit ones

Cheers for the help guys

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Posted 22nd Oct 2013 at 12:33
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jorg

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Location: Wallasey

Registered: 10 Jun 2007

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Post #2
i think the lines from the front flexi should lead to the abs module, you would have to trace the lines to find which one is which.

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Posted 22nd Oct 2013 at 12:35
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jeffers Forum Admin

Location: Leeds

Registered: 14 Dec 2003

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Post #3
Dave if I remember correctly from when I removed my ABS, them lines run round the back of the bay along the bulkhead then down the passenger side chassis leg to the ABS pump.... An absolute Bas***d of a job as I seem to remember the drivers side one runs behind the manifold heat shield and is a complete sod to get to........

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Posted 22nd Oct 2013 at 12:35
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gnrlee Forum Admin

Location: Leeds

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Post #4
Sad

This is gona be fun then isn't it,..
It's either that or pay a garage £150 Dry

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Posted 22nd Oct 2013 at 15:00
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Niall

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Location: Epsom

Registered: 06 Jun 2012

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Post #5
why do you need to replace it? Is it just because its damaged at the flexi end? If so, anyone near by that can replace a few inches in the arch and put a joiner in for you? Not the tidiest way but certainly thr easiest!
Posted 22nd Oct 2013 at 17:51
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gnrlee Forum Admin

Location: Leeds

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Post #6
Failed mot because of it but yeah it's right on the bend,.
I like neat and tidy also love a challenge
Worst case ill have to push it out and over the road to the garage LOL
If someone had said what ever you do don't even attempt it I may reconsider
Ill crack open the Haynes too Smile

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Posted 22nd Oct 2013 at 18:02
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Niall

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Post #7
Is it both sides? Passengers should be fairly straight forwards but drivers will be a PITA. Will need to take out the exhaust heat shield for the drivers (can be a bas**rd with engine in situ). Will need to take out the battery, battery tray and mounting plate and earth harness to get both out.
Posted 22nd Oct 2013 at 19:30
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stan_306gti6 Forum Admin

Location: Kent

Registered: 18 Jan 2004

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Post #8
Niall is correct, although if you remove the top engine mount you'll find it easier as you'll have better access to the back of the bay if you tilt the engine slightly forwards. Yes

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Posted 22nd Oct 2013 at 19:51
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gnrlee Forum Admin

Location: Leeds

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Post #9
Nice one guys! Yeah both front and 1 at the rear! Wink

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Posted 23rd Oct 2013 at 00:38
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ben306

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Location: North West

Registered: 17 Jan 2006

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Post #10
I just replaced a few inches back on mine with a joining connector as mentioned above. Much easier and still looks fine.

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Posted 23rd Oct 2013 at 07:49
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gnrlee Forum Admin

Location: Leeds

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Post #11
How hard is that to actually do?
And what do I need to do it?

Ie what size line which flairing tool and which connectors?
I've got near side rear to do too!

Any eBay links etc to what I'd need would be spot on! Thumbs up
I suppose if I fail miserably then it would be no real loss because I was going to replace that whole part of line anyway!

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Posted 23rd Oct 2013 at 08:42
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gnrlee Forum Admin

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Post #12
Ok after a bit of research I believe everything I need is here correct?

did cilcky from mobile so hope this works

Could someone just confirm the copper tubing size is 3/16 ?
Thumbs up

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Posted 23rd Oct 2013 at 11:23
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demondriverdan

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Post #13
I used 3/16ths when I replaced the brake lines in the race car. I can't look at the eBay link through work but my only concern would be that if you're using a cheaper flaring tool and trying to flare the standard steel brake pipes it could not be strong enough?

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Posted 23rd Oct 2013 at 12:08
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rikky 🦔

Location: cheshire

Registered: 28 Feb 2004

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Post #14
i've got 3/16 roll and am about to do mine. bought an £8 pipe bender and it's addictive, only thing is my flaring kit seems to have "stopped working" from when i last used it a few years back, even though it's a mechanical item without any wearing parts LOL

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Posted 23rd Oct 2013 at 12:15
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gnrlee Forum Admin

Location: Leeds

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Post #15
The new crack then huh rikky?

Good call on the flair strength for steel lines!
I'll ask them that before I buy!

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Posted 23rd Oct 2013 at 12:33
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gnrlee Forum Admin

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Post #16
can you not do a compression fitting that requires no flaring as in this video skip 8mins 22secs in
should the flaring tool not be strong enough for steel brake lines?

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Posted 23rd Oct 2013 at 13:43
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rikky 🦔

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Post #17
i personally wouldn't use them, would much prefer unions due to ease of removing them too. not sure how the compression fittings would cope under constant pressure, although i know they use them in fuel setups Unsure

i'm using speedfits and nylon pipe now for my fuel setup now and love them

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Posted 23rd Oct 2013 at 14:03
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gnrlee Forum Admin

Location: Leeds

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Post #18
rikky wrote:
i personally wouldn't use them, would much prefer unions due to ease of removing them too. not sure how the compression fittings would cope under constant pressure, although i know they use them in fuel setups Unsure


unions as in flaring both ends male and female nuts?

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Posted 23rd Oct 2013 at 14:03
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rikky 🦔

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Post #19
forget what i said, not even seen that video and only half read your posts. not really sure what you are aiming for? are you replacing metal with metal not copper?

i'd keep it all the same, but if you're putting a copper section into a steel bit then you're gonna have to use a good flaring tool or use a compression fit at one end and mate it to a normal union on your copper section

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Posted 23rd Oct 2013 at 14:12
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gnrlee Forum Admin

Location: Leeds

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Post #20
Crazy heads spinning now LOL

yeah I just want to cut out a part of the standard steel brake line with corrosion on it,..
and replace it with a copper brake line in its place,..

like I say I've never done this before so just want to do it right!

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Posted 23rd Oct 2013 at 14:23
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rikky 🦔

Location: cheshire

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Post #21
i'd just try flaring the existing pipe and compare how it looks against a flared copper equivalent

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Posted 23rd Oct 2013 at 14:34
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gnrlee Forum Admin

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Registered: 20 Aug 2005

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Post #22

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Posted 23rd Oct 2013 at 14:38
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rikky 🦔

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Post #23
why don't you replace the whole lot and take your car off the road for months and end up going round in circles doing jobs and breaking stuff? that's what i'd do

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Posted 23rd Oct 2013 at 14:46
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dangti6

aka JKshooter

Location: Taunton, Somerset

Registered: 15 Jun 2006

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Post #24
How much is that steel brake pipe from Peugeot?

Perhaps buy a new one and chop it where it's joinable within the wheel arch. Granted you waste half what you've bought - but if you don't want to change the whole thing..

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    • Posted 23rd Oct 2013 at 15:04
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    gnrlee Forum Admin

    Location: Leeds

    Registered: 20 Aug 2005

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    Post #25
    If I remember correctly about £15 each,..
    LOL I don't fancy hacking a brand new line to bits!
    If I had to buy the complete thing then I'd rarther fit it,..
    Suppose a good length off someone breaking should do
    And a pipe bending too Dunno

    Ill try this copper one 1st


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    Posted 23rd Oct 2013 at 16:20
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