Rust on lower quarter panel - Exterior Forum - Peugeot 306 GTi-6 & Rallye Owners Club

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Subject: Rust on lower quarter panel

jamiek_uk2000

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Location: Llanelli

Registered: 18 Apr 2009

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Post #1

I've taken off the skirt to find some rust that has developed on the quarter panel, which I am getting sorted tomorrow but I am wondering if it is a common thing on the 306 as my 205 went in the same spot and if so is there anything I can do to stop the other side from going. Does it travel further down the tunnel under the skirt or does it stay up towards the rear wheel? I'm thinking of putting cavity wax in, but is there any other access points apart from the one inside the rear arch?

Anyone have any experience with the cavity waxes, if so any recommendations?

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Posted 11th Apr 2013 at 21:44

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welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

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Post #2

http://www.306gti6.com/forum/showthread.php?id=153917&page=1

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Posted 11th Apr 2013 at 22:19

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jamiek_uk2000

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Post #3

That not a good sign for me, it doesn't look as bad as that rust did but it's not good. I know the sill is good since I've taken the sill back to bare metal on the back (towards the centre of the car, if you know what I mean) so that's going to be OK. It looks like just the body panel that has gone, which is under the skirt so I don't mind getting it all out and then getting it patched it.

I think that the mechanic I've got to look at it may not be upto the job

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205 GTi Red - G939 RTU - Died!
306 GTi 6 Diablo - Being resurrected! Project Thread

Looking for:
VTS P1 Rack
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Posted 11th Apr 2013 at 22:27

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phillipm

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Post #4

Yeah, mine only had some small spots, take the interior trim panel out and have a look inside...

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Posted 11th Apr 2013 at 22:40

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jamiek_uk2000

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Post #5

Why do this to me now, there was me thinking it was an easy job. The grinder will be out tomorrow

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205 GTi Red - G939 RTU - Died!
306 GTi 6 Diablo - Being resurrected! Project Thread

Looking for:
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Posted 11th Apr 2013 at 22:41

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phillipm

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Post #6

Well, I opened it up expecting to chop a little of the spotwelded flange off and re-spot it, I ended up making 9 panels....

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Posted 11th Apr 2013 at 22:57

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welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

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Post #7

think I might just plate over the top of mine, they wont see inside...

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Posted 11th Apr 2013 at 23:09

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phillipm

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Post #8

Cheat

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Posted 11th Apr 2013 at 23:27

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jamiek_uk2000

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Location: Llanelli

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Post #9

It's got to be cut out, I will know it is there and that will do my head in. I've spent so much effort on the underside refurb that it seems mad to not carry on sorting it out properly.

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205 GTi Red - G939 RTU - Died!
306 GTi 6 Diablo - Being resurrected! Project Thread

Looking for:
VTS P1 Rack
PR1.2 16"

Posted 12th Apr 2013 at 06:38

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beez_neez_gt

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Post #10

welshpug! wrote:

think I might just plate over the top of mine, they wont see inside...

Maybe not but the rust will just spread and in time mean it will make far more work that just doing it properly in the first place.

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Posted 12th Apr 2013 at 08:15

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welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

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Post #11

Not at all, see phills pics to see how complex it is in there, itll be easier to go in heavy and chop large bits out than try and fix whats there now.

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Posted 12th Apr 2013 at 08:29

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phillipm

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Post #12

Yep, I chopped way back to spotless steel, what's a few inches more steel and another panel when you're doing it anyway?

I've also wrapped a panel around the bottom of the sill joints to stop the sill getting damaged by the jacking point - the old sill was letting water in there by the looks of it.

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Posted 12th Apr 2013 at 10:45

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welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

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Post #13

what does the 306 jacking point look like?

ZX has a 2" square piece of 3mm thick steel between the sections, the lip only sticks down about 5mm below the sill.

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Posted 12th Apr 2013 at 11:15

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phillipm

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Post #14

Like that, but with two more holes drilled in it and an L-shaped reinforcement to the inner sill behind it. Still hasn't stopped it prising the bottom of the sill open enough for water to sneak in though.

Mine is now 4 plates and triangulated, also put in drain holes at the very back of the inner sill to the outer, and in the corners of the b-pillar reinforcement - also now triangulated to rest of sill - so any moisture that does find it's way in there can drain into the outer sill.

Zinc primed all the panels before they went in and filled the sections with half a can of Dynax S50 too. Give it ten years and it'll be the only bit of the car that hasn't rotted LOL

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Posted 12th Apr 2013 at 11:49

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jamiek_uk2000

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Post #15

Is the S50 the stuff to go for then? I'm going to inject as much as the car will hold into the other side of the car to try and stop this happening again. Your not in the Swansea area soon and fancy doing some welding are you Phil Whistle

________________________________________

205 GTi Red - G939 RTU - Died!
306 GTi 6 Diablo - Being resurrected! Project Thread

Looking for:
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Posted 12th Apr 2013 at 18:41

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beez_neez_gt

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Post #16

Yes it is, its what iv used in all my cavities, from Bilt Hamber BTW. Their weld through etch primer is also good, although i prefer to use Jotun epoxy sea boat 2k primer now, its a superior primer compared to the zinc 1k stuff or any other primer in the world for that matter. If you use the zinc primer make sure the panel to be primed is super clean as when i didnt do so well once it just scratched off by nail, it has to be wiped over until cloth is clean.

Just make sure you put some paper or plastic sheet under the car as it does drip a fair bit after you applied it, it can take a while to stop too.

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Posted 12th Apr 2013 at 18:50

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phillipm

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Post #17

Panels should always be clean before painting anyway Big grin

But yes, epoxy is good on the outside, it's not very good if you're wanting to protect the inside of the panel you're welding in though Big grin

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Posted 12th Apr 2013 at 18:55

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beez_neez_gt

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Post #18

Sorry i never meant for welding with, thats why i suggested their weld through primer and yes i know its meant to be clean and i did clean it twice like usual but Bilt hamber said it cant have been enough, it has to be super clean, ie use brake cleaner not panel wipe. Its a bit silly really cause no matter how many times i clean bare steel the cloth still ends up with a slight grey colouring to it from the steel, was told cloth has to be clean, the jotun epoxy can cope with a little surface rust and dirt so makes life easier.

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Pick a Bogey, buy a Pug.

Black 306 GTI 6 Standard, was 60k mileage, bargain!!

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Posted 12th Apr 2013 at 19:04

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phillipm

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Post #19

Zinc and etch shouldn't come off bar being hit with a screwdriver if the panel has been sanded and cleaned, etch can cope with some like surface oxidation as the acid bites into it, can't say I've ever had an issue with etchweld or electrox, I've even had it go through the tube bender and not flake.

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Posted 12th Apr 2013 at 19:14

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beez_neez_gt

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Post #20

Just the zinc primer iv had trouble with not the etch. Not had lots if trouble with it, only on one piece, same goes with their rust converter, has to be super clean but then rust never is so never use that stuff again, only fully derust bits now.

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Pug fee`ver,

Pick a Bogey, buy a Pug.

Black 306 GTI 6 Standard, was 60k mileage, bargain!!

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Posted 12th Apr 2013 at 19:47

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phillipm

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Post #21

The hydrate?

Never had issues with that either, in fact, there's a panel outside that had 20 years of rust on, had hydrate applied, stopped the rust, and it's still good 3 years later.

Sill would have needed rather more than that though Big grin

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Posted 12th Apr 2013 at 19:49

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beez_neez_gt

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Post #22

Yep on one bit rust came back and was kept in garage yet other part was fine and tbh i dont trust that kind of stuff, only real way is total removal and prime using 2k epoxy, job done for good.

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Pug fee`ver,

Pick a Bogey, buy a Pug.

Black 306 GTI 6 Standard, was 60k mileage, bargain!!

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Posted 12th Apr 2013 at 21:09

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phillipm

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Post #23

If possible, yes. But I do find it's awesome on springs where the coating is starting to peel.

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Posted 12th Apr 2013 at 21:24

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daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

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Post #24

My race cars been prepped back to bare metal, welded then hydrated, then left outside under a cover in the damp, cold and rain and there's no sign of rust except for the areas I missed with the treatment, it's great stuff.

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Posted 12th Apr 2013 at 21:27

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beez_neez_gt

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Post #25

Yes its no doubt worked for many, for me it didnt so wont use it again unless i have no choice on parts that cant be derusted.

Iv had similar problems with similar stuff made by other companies and year later rust was under it growing and again i did what instructions say to do.

________________________________________

Pug fee`ver,

Pick a Bogey, buy a Pug.

Black 306 GTI 6 Standard, was 60k mileage, bargain!!

Clicky: [url =http://www.306gti6.com]click here[/url] remove the space between [url & =

Posted 12th Apr 2013 at 21:46

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