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Author Subject: Best oil cooler for a 50/50 track/road gti6?
carlosw828

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Post #1
Quick question lads, looking into oil coolers for my 306, will be a throttle bodied toy and will probably be used just as much on track as the road if I have my way, any recommendations on what size cooler to get?

Does there become a point where bigger is no longer better? Dunno

Posted 24th Mar 2013 at 17:15
dangti6

aka JKshooter

Location: Taunton, Somerset

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Post #2
I've just gone for a 16 row. Appears to be a common suggestion.

It's worth going for a thermostatic sandwich plate IMO.

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  • Posted 24th Mar 2013 at 17:18
    daveyboy

    aka Jim Davey

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    Post #3
    As above, steer clear of 13 rows, they don't quite cut it.
    Mount it in front of the rad not behind, and get it good and low so it's not obscured by the number plate etc.

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    Posted 24th Mar 2013 at 17:21
    blandy

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    Post #4
    Great thread as looking for one for my bodied car, Any one got any recommendations where to buy as see plenty on eBay but with it holding oil I'd rather something of decent tested quality lol
    Posted 24th Mar 2013 at 17:27
    carlosw828

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    Post #5
    Cheers fellas, am I best off buying the adapter and cooler then measuring for the pipes or will a kit suffice? Also I've seen 2 types of hose used, rubber and a braided type one... I take it braided is the way forward?
    Posted 24th Mar 2013 at 17:31
    tvrfan007

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    Post #6
    I've got some braided ones for sale chap, 33 inch long, will do you to the front of the rad

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    Posted 24th Mar 2013 at 17:35
    dangti6

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    Post #7
    JJC were the best price I found for Mocal when I was looking around. I luckily came across a used one complete.

    I've heard with kits you can end up mounting the kit in a non ideal location due to limitations with pipe length. My intention was to buy the plate and cooler as you suggest and them mount and measure up for hoses. A hydrolic firm can knock you some up.

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  • Posted 24th Mar 2013 at 17:38
    owain

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    Post #8
    Even with the sandwich plate you'll want to put in a temperature gauge and probably something to physically block flow, else it'll over-cool the oil under normal driving.

    My gauge goes down to 50 degrees and the sump temperature won't even register if I drive around on roads without blocking physical flow to the cooler. The sandwich plates aren't quite as perfect a solution as you might expect.

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    Posted 24th Mar 2013 at 18:19
    bigbadbowen

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    Post #9
    That's what the thermostatic sandwich plate does ? Blocks the flow until a certain temp Yes
    Posted 24th Mar 2013 at 18:23
    dangti6

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    Post #10
    Won't open and flow through the cooler until it reaches 80 degrees Yes

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  • Posted 24th Mar 2013 at 18:26
    owain

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    Post #11
    That's correct, but if it's cold and you're not caning the engine, the oil reaches 80, goes through the plate and ends up over-cooled by the time it gets back to the engine.

    The engine needs to be well above 50 to be working properly, and I'm telling you my sump is below that if I don't block the air off.

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    Posted 24th Mar 2013 at 18:35
    bigbadbowen

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    Post #12
    owain wrote:
    That's correct, but if it's cold and you're not caning the engine, the oil reaches 80, goes through the plate and ends up over-cooled by the time it gets back to the engine.

    The engine needs to be well above 50 to be working properly, and I'm telling you my sump is below that if I don't block the air off.


    Drive the car properly then Razz
    Posted 24th Mar 2013 at 18:40
    jamiek_uk2000

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    Post #13
    So is there a switch/valve you could install then, on the oil line which you could then turn off and only run when you are on the track? I've been looking at installing one due to my car becoming a part time track slag, but people say that the thermo plate aren't all they are cracked up to be due to over cooling when not on the track

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    Posted 24th Mar 2013 at 19:09
    owain

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    Post #14
    It's what I'd do if I used mine on the road, all the threads are standard so I'm sure you could get some hoses made up which had some kind of in-line isolator to turn it off completely.

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    Posted 24th Mar 2013 at 19:24
    jamiek_uk2000

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    Post #15
    That's a good point, I'll check in work tomorrow what I can get in 1/2" BSP. I've never seen an oil rated on though, they are normally small but I'm sure I can find one

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    Posted 24th Mar 2013 at 19:32
    jamiek_uk2000

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    Post #16
    You know what sort of pressure the oil lines run at?

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    Posted 24th Mar 2013 at 19:36
    jamiek_uk2000

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    Post #17
    After a little research I have found that the oil cooler runs at upto 10bar of pressure. A normal gate valve is rated to 20 bar and would be ideal for the job. I also have a few of them in the container in work that I will be raiding tomorrow Smile

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    Posted 24th Mar 2013 at 19:45
    owain

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    Post #18
    Sounds like a plan. If your car doesn't have an oil temp gauge I'd recommend getting one.

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    Posted 24th Mar 2013 at 20:03
    jamiek_uk2000

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    Post #19
    Don't all 6's have an oil temperature gauge? Are the standard ones to be trusted or should I fit an aftermarket one?

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    Posted 24th Mar 2013 at 20:06
    owain

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    Post #20
    Phase 2 onwards did, Phase 1 was oil pressure instead IIRC. I have a phase 1, so can't comment on the accuracy as I don't have one.

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    Posted 24th Mar 2013 at 20:08
    jamiek_uk2000

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    Post #21
    Fair enough, I just assumed since I had one, they all had one. What other gauges are people running, is it worth fitting an oil pressure gauge to keep an eye on that aswell? I remember having to keep a keen eye on my 205GTi due to it's great reliability.

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    Posted 24th Mar 2013 at 20:14
    pooouk

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    Post #22
    The thermostatic plate will just close again when it drops below 80c, they don't just open and then stay open. They work the same way as a thermostat does in the coolant, forever opening and closing with the water temp.

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    Posted 24th Mar 2013 at 20:33
    daveyboy

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    Post #23
    Owain, sounds like your thermostat is stuck fully open. I'd take a look at your next oil change bud.

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    Posted 24th Mar 2013 at 20:42
    owain

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    Post #24
    It's really not, I've known many people have the problem with oil coolers. Yes they kick in at 80, which the oil is when it comes *out* of the engine - the problem is that if it's cold outside it gets over-cooled, then thrown back into the top of the engine too cold. Not only do you have air rushing under the sump cooling it, but also zero-degree winter air sapping the heat out through the cooler as well.

    It's not a problem with my cooler, it's fairly common for cars with oil coolers.

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    Posted 24th Mar 2013 at 20:44
    daveyboy

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    Post #25
    Have you removed your undertray?

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    R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.

    Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
    Engine mount/chassis repair
    Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION
    Harness bars
    Posted 24th Mar 2013 at 20:46

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