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Cherry Rallye SOLD
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displaying posts 26 to 49 of 49
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Author | Subject: Black rallye refurb...... |
![]() Seasoned Pro ![]() Location: Kent Registered: 17 Feb 2011 Posts: 2,100 Status: Offline |
Post #26
Yes, definitely check for rust. I've spent ages sorting mine, all minor surface stuff though, but it's all in the prep! These cars are surprisingly rust resistant compared to some horror stories I've seen on the net (including a 99 T reg Merc C36 which had a rotten sill and collapsed jacking points), but the paint and galvanising could be giving up the struggle in places due to years of abuse. Get the side skirts off and have a look under there too. Also check where numpties might have jacked the car in the wrong place - on the floor or on the chassis rails. Damage can cause rust to start. ________________________________________ Cherry Rallye SOLD |
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![]() Seasoned Pro ![]() Location: Portsmouth Registered: 09 Aug 2009 Posts: 1,834 Status: Offline |
Post #27
mik wrote: Yes, definitely check for rust. I've spent ages sorting mine, all minor surface stuff though, but it's all in the prep! These cars are surprisingly rust resistant compared to some horror stories I've seen on the net (including a 99 T reg Merc C36 which had a rotten sill and collapsed jacking points), but the paint and galvanising could be giving up the struggle in places due to years of abuse. Get the side skirts off and have a look under there too. Also check where numpties might have jacked the car in the wrong place - on the floor or on the chassis rails. Damage can cause rust to start. Lol i don't want to take off the skirts... ![]() ![]() ________________________________________ Richies Project RallyeElectrical work carried out in Portsmouth jamiek_uk2000 wrote: - Top Tip!!! You'll need to throw money at the car. Not on parts. Just stand near your car and throw loose change at it, I find this increases performance for a short period of time |
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![]() Junior User ![]() Location: Rhyl Registered: 11 Jul 2012 Posts: 69 Status: Offline |
Post #28
Driver side square jacking point crushed and the corner where it creased is rusted through good job I like welding lol Gonna seam weld an inch miss an inch on the subframe whilst it off then go round the whole engine bay the same just to stiffen it up a smidge top mount chassis is good but might plate it with 3mm whilst there to make sure it doesn't go in my lifetime I love seam welding it's has to be the most satisfying job!! Both front wings are original probably why they havn't rusted yet Thanks for the replys Does any one have a pair of oval solid top mounts I can template have access to a cnc plasma and water table , i would do some as a group buy for cost ? Also any other bits, can cut up to an inch clean through and quick turn around Cheers Dave |
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![]() Junior User ![]() Location: Rhyl Registered: 11 Jul 2012 Posts: 69 Status: Offline |
Post #29
I've got 5 litres of black single pack enamel I'll be slapping it on lol |
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![]() aka Jim Davey ![]() Location: Southampton Registered: 01 Oct 2007 Posts: 8,648 Status: Offline |
Post #30
This end was loads shorter than other![]() They always are ![]() ________________________________________ R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.Some of my services: (See my for sale threads) Engine mount/chassis repair Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION Harness bars |
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![]() Junior User ![]() Location: Rhyl Registered: 11 Jul 2012 Posts: 69 Status: Offline |
Post #31
Ok cheers for that do then that can be reused yeah ? |
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![]() Seasoned Pro ![]() Location: Oswestry Registered: 01 Nov 2009 Posts: 3,132 Status: Offline |
Post #32
Good luck with it![]() Lot of work ahead of you ![]() Wallopadonkey wrote: Welcome to my project thread. ![]() lol first attempt 4 hours or so with a few interesting discoveries on the way!! ![]() ![]() ![]() ________________________________________ Red GTB1756 powered Fabia VRS daily driver,LBSC Gti6 eater........Mac1 ZR R1 kit car build in progress. |
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![]() Junior User ![]() Location: Rhyl Registered: 11 Jul 2012 Posts: 69 Status: Offline |
Post #33
@coskev my wife is from Whitchurch ill pop over next time I'm over there |
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![]() Senior User ![]() Location: Halesworth Registered: 10 Jan 2007 Posts: 636 Status: Offline |
Post #34
Bm baker will supply just a uprated top mount for a good price including the new rubber bit.________________________________________ Astor 6 |
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![]() Junior User ![]() Location: Rhyl Registered: 11 Jul 2012 Posts: 69 Status: Offline |
Post #35
Ed_van_dijk wrote: Bm baker will supply just a uprated top mount for a good price including the new rubber bit. @Ed Is that a website or user on here ? I saw these last night anyone used them ? Mounts Any good ? |
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![]() aka Jim Davey ![]() Location: Southampton Registered: 01 Oct 2007 Posts: 8,648 Status: Offline |
Post #36
Wallopadonkey wrote: Ok cheers for that do then that can be reused yeah ? yup ![]() ________________________________________ R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.Some of my services: (See my for sale threads) Engine mount/chassis repair Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION Harness bars |
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![]() Senior User ![]() Location: Halesworth Registered: 10 Jan 2007 Posts: 636 Status: Offline |
Post #37
They do them as a kit here click hereIf you give them a call they can sell the top mount separate. very helpful chap. Facebook link - click here ________________________________________ Astor 6 |
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![]() Seasoned Pro ![]() Location: Inverness-Shire Registered: 19 Dec 2005 Posts: 7,459 Status: Offline |
Post #38
rich306 wrote: mik wrote: Yes, definitely check for rust. I've spent ages sorting mine, all minor surface stuff though, but it's all in the prep! These cars are surprisingly rust resistant compared to some horror stories I've seen on the net (including a 99 T reg Merc C36 which had a rotten sill and collapsed jacking points), but the paint and galvanising could be giving up the struggle in places due to years of abuse. Get the side skirts off and have a look under there too. Also check where numpties might have jacked the car in the wrong place - on the floor or on the chassis rails. Damage can cause rust to start. Lol i don't want to take off the skirts... ![]() ![]() i am the same, will have to do it this year ![]() ________________________________________ TEAM HIGH BOOST SUPERCHARGED RALLYEMy Rallye project thread |
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![]() Seasoned Pro ![]() Location: somewhere in north wales Registered: 09 Nov 2009 Posts: 3,113 Status: Offline |
Post #39
Wallopadonkey wrote: personally, i think they would be too harsh for a road car. just the bbm bottom mount and the shimmed up top mount would be ideal ![]() ________________________________________ FRESHLY RE-FURBISHED GTI BEAMSFITTING AND LOWERING AVAILABLE. ALL AXLES BUILT USING GENUINE PEUGEOT PARTS IF I'M NOT HERE, IT ONLY MEANS ONE THING.... I'M SOMEWHERE ELSE! |
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![]() Junior User ![]() Location: Rhyl Registered: 11 Jul 2012 Posts: 69 Status: Offline |
Post #40
Andy have you been round Anglesey circuit |
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![]() Seasoned Pro ![]() Location: somewhere in north wales Registered: 09 Nov 2009 Posts: 3,113 Status: Offline |
Post #41
Wallopadonkey wrote: Andy have you been round Anglesey circuit Not yet. Am tempted though. Not sure if I'd go in the car or on bike ________________________________________ FRESHLY RE-FURBISHED GTI BEAMSFITTING AND LOWERING AVAILABLE. ALL AXLES BUILT USING GENUINE PEUGEOT PARTS IF I'M NOT HERE, IT ONLY MEANS ONE THING.... I'M SOMEWHERE ELSE! |
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![]() Seasoned Pro ![]() Location: Portsmouth Registered: 09 Aug 2009 Posts: 1,834 Status: Offline |
Post #42
russbez wrote: rich306 wrote: mik wrote: Yes, definitely check for rust. I've spent ages sorting mine, all minor surface stuff though, but it's all in the prep! These cars are surprisingly rust resistant compared to some horror stories I've seen on the net (including a 99 T reg Merc C36 which had a rotten sill and collapsed jacking points), but the paint and galvanising could be giving up the struggle in places due to years of abuse. Get the side skirts off and have a look under there too. Also check where numpties might have jacked the car in the wrong place - on the floor or on the chassis rails. Damage can cause rust to start. Lol i don't want to take off the skirts... ![]() ![]() i am the same, will have to do it this year ![]() I will do it when the summer comes around lol, too damn cold to get out there and tear the Rallye apart ![]() ________________________________________ Richies Project RallyeElectrical work carried out in Portsmouth jamiek_uk2000 wrote: - Top Tip!!! You'll need to throw money at the car. Not on parts. Just stand near your car and throw loose change at it, I find this increases performance for a short period of time |
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![]() Junior User ![]() Location: Rhyl Registered: 11 Jul 2012 Posts: 69 Status: Offline |
Post #43
Under skirts looks clean I'll take them off to make sure anyway I am not worried about the rust it's a way of life just hope new engine is sweet so I can get on with a 205 gti6 lol next project |
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![]() Junior User ![]() Location: Rhyl Registered: 11 Jul 2012 Posts: 69 Status: Offline |
Post #44
Do I measure the hole in the bottom of hub for 16 or 18 mm type ? |
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![]() Seasoned Pro ![]() Location: Chelmsford, Essex Registered: 29 Dec 2002 Posts: 3,471 Status: Offline |
Post #45
Wallopadonkey wrote: Do I measure the hole in the bottom of hub for 16 or 18 mm type ? Pull the lower arm down and take the balljoint out of the hub. Measure the width of the balljoint (the part that sits in the hu ![]() |
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![]() Junior User ![]() Location: Rhyl Registered: 11 Jul 2012 Posts: 69 Status: Offline |
Post #46
silky wrote: Wallopadonkey wrote: Do I measure the hole in the bottom of hub for 16 or 18 mm type ? Pull the lower arm down and take the balljoint out of the hub. Measure the width of the balljoint (the part that sits in the hu ![]() This is a pic of ball joint pass side ![]() |
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![]() Seasoned Pro ![]() Location: Chelmsford, Essex Registered: 29 Dec 2002 Posts: 3,471 Status: Offline |
Post #47
So just measure the diameter of it. Be sure to check both sides as they are not always the same |
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![]() Junior User ![]() Location: Rhyl Registered: 11 Jul 2012 Posts: 69 Status: Offline |
Post #48
Yeah but the top flat bit not the widest point of the ball yeah |
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![]() Seasoned Pro ![]() Location: Chelmsford, Essex Registered: 29 Dec 2002 Posts: 3,471 Status: Offline |
Post #49
Yep, the top inch long cylindrical part |
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