I don't think you can, the standard one didn't fit under mine. You also wouldn't want to as it will stop airflow going under the wing which generates a lot of the downforce.

I just drilled holes in the endplate and holes in the boot and bolted it in

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Rallye Race Car

Just had another read on this thread.
With your wiring did you have any diagrams to work from or did you just chop bit by bit?

I another race at Brands a few weeks ago, came away with second in class and 5th overall which I was pretty happy with.

Unfortunately the car didn't survive so well, the rear beam has some pretty impressive play in the shafts but I knew a beam build was coming soon anyway so I'm not hugely surprised. More worrying is the engine was overheating for the last 20 minutes (running at around 104 degrees), the temp went up during the pitstop and I couldn't get it back down again. Due to the position I was in the race I decided to push on and see how far it would go before dying, somehow with it finishing the race! I think the head gasket has gone, maybe with a warped head as well but I guess I'll find out when I take it apart.

Had a good battle with another 306:







Video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M_uiZcjp3yQ

I'm supposed to have one more race this year at Oulton but with the car in such a bad state I've decided to leave it and start fixing it ready for next year.

Over the weekend I pressed the shafts out of a spare set of trailing arms I have





As you can see they're in a bit of a state so will get them shot blasted!



Once they're shot blasted and powder coated they're going off to Bridgecraft to have the camber set to -2.5 degrees and 0 toe, should make the rear a bit more lively. I've ordered a new shaft kit and a new 30mm ARB as well

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Rallye Race Car

I'm going completely from scratch this time, new wires, the lot. It's easier for me as my dash is fed from the ECU so haven't got to worry about that, mainly just wiring the engine and then lights.

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Rallye Race Car

this will handle totally different when you get it back on the road then!!

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need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

Bring on the Trumpets.

Bit more work on the beam over the weekend, new bearings pressed in so the tube is ready to go. Should be getting the arms back from Bridgecraft this week so the rest of the beam can go back together.

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Rallye Race Car

Yea, probably Trackday Trophy again. Hopefully after an engine rebuild the power should be back and I'll be able to challenge for outright wins again

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Rallye Race Car

Arms look great just like new

Random question does the dash 4 have a fuel gauge like the dash 2?

Dan as Mei has said your going to notice a huge difference on the car m8 ...

Will Declaudio did his Beam for the last race at Combe with a totally new refit Beam on his 106 ....his old one had so much play ....he said the car felt much more predictable Dan ...can’t remember if your using solid mounts or not ?....some like them / others Don’t ?...I like them personally...Wills running 1.5 on the rear 2.5 from on AD08s...

I’m only running about 1 degree of Camber at the back of mine but 40mm wider than standard as you may know ?
And 2.5 Degree at the front but can go to nearly 4.0 if need be as Colin’s making the Drveshafts slightly longer for a little adjustability his idea not mine ....but my fronts 50mm wider than standard as you may know ?

Ross / Supercharger sent me a pic of a great idea you may or may not of seen already ? ....he drilled / tapped a hole into the tube each end ...fitted a grease nipple to grease the bearings inside ...maybe next time I take mine apart I’ll do that mod ...

The cars going to look great Dan ...keep the updates coming m8

Yes Mei but it will keep the Arb greased, it’s not for the bearings my Arb had started to rust slightly inside the tube. It will make it easier to pull apart?

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Super high boost Completed, destroyer of gearboxes and 160mph club

It’s been stripped more often than that’s lol, I’ve got another identical beam to make so will not do it on that one will see which one is easier to strip. Dan looks great mate did you manage to get bigger Arb and torsion bars in the end?

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Super high boost Completed, destroyer of gearboxes and 160mph club

I took a punt on 2.5 degrees. It might be too much, if so then oh well! Having an axle that isn't falling apart will be a good thing.

And yea, I run solids and have done since pretty much the beginning.

Mike, that's pretty much exactly how I did it. I wired a resistor in line to bring the voltage output down to sub 5v then put 2 litres in, recorded the voltage, added 2 more etc.

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Rallye Race Car