Did a bit more wiring work over the last few weeks. Here you can see the ECU mount brackets, pretty simple and not the most exciting but better than cable ties:



I changed the engine bay fuse box to a double layer so I can put in some maxi fuses and also wired in a relay for the starter which means the car starts properly now. Not my best work but it'll do



While I was there I wired in a plug so I can have an external start button which is handy if I want to turn the engine over without the ignition on for example to do a compression test:



Here you can see the buttons behind the steering wheel



I need to wire them up, it's a bit fiddly as the flexible wire has very thing gauge stuff so need to order in some very low amperage wire and a good connector.

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Rallye Race Car

Like the omex brackets like you say simple but effective, mines Velcro stuck in place lol

With the steering controls if it helps I run one of these for steering controls so there wireless and pleased with it

https://blinkstop.co.uk/shop/freewheel

Not that cheap but Cheaper than the summit etc and works well

Yeah saw that in your fb looks smart,

Dan/Damien any ideas what water temp yours gets to on track?

I run a 19 row fully open sandwich plate that helps to keep mine under 92 ...but remember Mike mines highly stressed and my rad has that cowling and huge Radiator that helps keep the Water cool even after 10 laps of Combe

Cooler Oil helps cooler water etc etc ...but my huge Radiator with cowling makes a massive difference

Here's a log from 2018 at Donington:



I'm running a 16 row oil cooler I think.

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Rallye Race Car

Yea, spike will either be going to the grid or sat in the holding area. I should have wired in an extra switch but it's all ECU controlled and I've never had an issue so left it

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Rallye Race Car

Made a bit more progress with the car over the weekend. I wanted to do the last bit of wiring and get the steering wheel buttons wired up. First up was to paint the bare panel, here's a photo of it in primer:



Then I had to take the coiled wire and and wire it up to the switched. Each core wire is very thin, I think it's only rated for 250mA, so I soldered it to the pins on the back of the buttons. I then used boots to cover it up and offer a bit of protection. Here it is wired up:





I wanted a fixed mounting point for the connector between the coiled wire and the main loom to make sure it stays out of the way of my feet, and also to provide strain relief so it doesn't pull on the small wires. I made a small, rectangular plate that is bolted up with the steering column:



After faffing around wiring in the DTM connector, you end up with something like this:





Then I painted the panel black so it's a bit more subtle and hooked everything up.



All seems to work well. I have headlight flash and one-touch wipe working. The other buttons are for pit-to-car radio (still needs to be wired up) and a pit lane speed limiter that needs mapping in.

I'm due to race at Silverstone GP in August so need to get the car ready for that. The Odyssey race battery I've got still struggles to start the car after the new wiring loom. I'm wondering if it's just not big enough, even though it's brand new.

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Rallye Race Car

What diameter and how long are the battery/starter cables dan? I.e is the diameter enough for the current over the length of the cable?