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Author Subject: Miles Links - PTFE Bush?
honestly3k

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Post #1
Hi Chaps,

Just bought some of Miles linkages and im thinking of trying to line the joints with some sort of dampening as to avoid the dreaded rattle that some say they have noticed.

I read on here he was going to trial fit PTFE in the joints.

I also read that someone else used some rubber O-Rings on the joints which eliminated the rattle.

I was wondering if anyone knew what the best type of material i could use off ebay for this job?
Ive never used PTFE before, is it flexible or a hard material? Can it be bent into the sockets easily? Will it perish easily?

Does anyone know how thick the standard pug link bushes were in terms of mm? What thickness material should i use?
Anyone know of an alternative to PTFE that could be used and wont perish easily?

Obviously i dont want to negate the precise-ness of the new links but then i do alot of miles so i cant be having an irritating rattle either.

Was maybe thinking something like this cut to size?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-pcs-x-Teflon-PTFE-OD-37mm-x-5mm-Polytetrafluoroethylene-THK-Sheet-white-/150861615201?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item23200d9061

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Posted 20th Jul 2012 at 20:25
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

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Post #2
unless the balls are worn you shouldn't get any rattle, pack the rod ends with some nice thick grease and they shouldn't rattle if there is any play as well.

if you want to fit a Nylon insert of some kind you'll need to machine the cups out as they're a tight fit.


TBH it sounds like you should really have bought some standard pug linkages, or pug sport if you can find any.

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Posted 20th Jul 2012 at 20:36
honestly3k

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Post #3
I'll just use grease if i cant think of anything else but surely 1mm or 2mm thick PTFE would do the job yes?

Surely there is enough room in the cups for 1mm insulation, must be if theres room for grease anyway....

My gearchange is notchy in 1st/2nd/3rd about town even when warm so hoping this will clean it up a bit.

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Posted 20th Jul 2012 at 20:44
phillipm

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Post #4
I'd be surprised if there's enough room to get 0.5mm of ptfe sheet wrapped in there tbh, you might try some PTFE tape I suppose.

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Posted 20th Jul 2012 at 20:52
welshpug!

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Post #5
got the right oil in there?

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Posted 20th Jul 2012 at 21:09
honestly3k

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Post #6
Yup genuine pug oil. Done not long ago either

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Posted 20th Jul 2012 at 21:11
coskev

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Post #7
honestly3k wrote:
I'll just use grease if i cant think of anything else but surely 1mm or 2mm thick PTFE would do the job yes?

Surely there is enough room in the cups for 1mm insulation, must be if theres room for grease anyway....

My gearchange is notchy in 1st/2nd/3rd about town even when warm so hoping this will clean it up a bit.


1 or 2mmLOL

As above,bit of grease and you won't get rattlesThumbs up

Fitted these to my old 309 and on my Rallye now and no rattles,they are a nice tight fitYes

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Posted 20th Jul 2012 at 21:57
honestly3k

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Post #8
Guess i will know more when i actually see them then, for some reason i thought they might be a bit loose Confused

Enough to exercise my own engineering creativity with a grease alternative at least LOL

Matt said that his are fine with grease i just wasnt sure where other people got their complaints from so thought i'd ask

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Posted 20th Jul 2012 at 22:01
davedgti6

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Post #9
If you get rattles, grease the gearstick ball = no rattles anymore, simples

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Posted 20th Jul 2012 at 22:01
beez_neez_gt

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Post #10
I used this stuff http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lucas-Oils-USA-Red-N-Tacky-Grease-14oz-Gun-Cartridge-/251062217352?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item3a74796a88

It will also stop the ball joints from ever rusting, its use says its for sliding surfaces and is very thick and clingy. It will also cope with high temps from the manifold/exhaust.

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Posted 21st Jul 2012 at 01:10
honestly3k

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Post #11
Thanks chaps

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Posted 21st Jul 2012 at 08:45
dangti6

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Post #12
They are very tight in the ball joints. I used some decent grease and there is zero movement - just a satisfying clunk when it goes into gear. Really stiffened mine up. Going into first before was an issue as you had to force it a fair way and stop when it selected. Push any harder and the rod would of popped off.

For the purposes of testing I gave it a hell of a push towards the dash and there's some real resistance there due to the retaining clips.

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  • Posted 21st Jul 2012 at 08:58
    honestly3k

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    Post #13
    I bought some of that Red N Tacky grease mentioned above, seems like it will do the job well!

    So does anyone have any tips on how best to go about installing these new rods?
    I also bought the return ball/bush thing that fits on the subframe that i've yet to go and pick up.

    Seems tight for movement down there........did people just come in from above and lay across the engine to be able to reach? LOL

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    Posted 2nd Aug 2012 at 14:51
    welshpug!

    Capt Pedantic

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    Post #14
    get it jacked up nice and high Smile

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    Posted 2nd Aug 2012 at 15:18
    honestly3k

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    Post #15
    Presumably you mean to fit the return ball thingy?

    I do appreciate your input Welshy but you're always very vague, with noobs like me, i need details and indepth instructions! Thumbs up LOL

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    Posted 2nd Aug 2012 at 15:22
    coskev

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    Post #16
    They can be fitted from above,but fiddly esp getting the little retaining clips inYes

    Just do one rod at a time if your not too good on the spannersWink otherwise you will be posting up on here asking which rod goes whereYes

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    Posted 2nd Aug 2012 at 16:27
    stan_306gti6 Forum Admin

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    Post #17
    honestly3k wrote:
    Presumably you mean to fit the return ball thingy?

    I do appreciate your input Welshy but you're always very vague, with noobs like me, i need details and indepth instructions! Thumbs up LOL


    Yes, change the balljoint on the subframe from underneath. Yes
    As Welshy says, make sure you jack it up nice and high to give yourself more access room and always use axle stands. Thumbs up

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    Posted 3rd Aug 2012 at 09:09
    eliotrw

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    Post #18
    Yeah, otherwise you might have a lovely gearchange but you also may have a car on your face.

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    Posted 3rd Aug 2012 at 09:13
    mattgti6phase2

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    Post #19
    From above is easier Chris Yes

    Battery/Ecu tray out then it's easy peasy. I done mine from above, if you need help just holla Thumbs up

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    Posted 4th Aug 2012 at 01:32
    honestly3k

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    Post #20
    Thanks boys Thumbs up

    May take you up on that Matty however i wouldnt mind getting a little more involved then its a bit fairer, spread the workload etc LOL

    Got the rods and grease ready to go but not much point fitting the rods then doing the joint thing on a seperate day.....as peugeot are dragging their heels with that part as you know Smile

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    Posted 4th Aug 2012 at 12:00
    niw

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    Post #21
    Does anyone have a picture and a part number for that balljoint thing ? I guess it's the same as my friend mention like a bottom gearleaver plastik bush?
    Posted 18th Jan 2013 at 07:49
    Tallguy_2

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    Post #22
    Surely the rods must be a nice snug fit that want a bit of lithium grease in there to pack/ lubricate?

    What are the clips?

    Are these easy to fit?

    Cheers

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    Posted 23rd Jan 2013 at 23:11
    bigbadbowen

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    Post #23
    Tallguy_2 wrote:
    Surely the rods must be a nice snug fit that want a bit of lithium grease in there to pack/ lubricate?

    What are the clips?

    Are these easy to fit?

    Cheers


    Ya man piece of p1ss
    Posted 23rd Jan 2013 at 23:17
    Tallguy_2

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    Post #24
    Just take them off underneath one at a time and match the length?

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    Posted 23rd Jan 2013 at 23:47
    bigbadbowen

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    Post #25
    An from above dude and there are only 1 long one and 2 short ones tat are the same length Wink
    Posted 23rd Jan 2013 at 23:49

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