Ive put a wanted post in the appropriate section but if anyone has a n/s ARB end plate thats off the bar please let me know as i need one yesterday!!
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displaying posts 1 to 25 of 29
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Author | Subject: ARB end plate wont come off!!!!!!!!!! |
lammylama
Regular Location: godstone Registered: 17 Nov 2009 Posts: 228 Status: Offline |
Post #1
First bloody job i do on my new 6 goes tits up FFS!!!!.....attempting to fit my new hybrid arb and i had trouble getting the end plate off one end of the old bar.I tried winding out the n/s plate but wouldnt budge so tried the drivers side which came out fine,i then pulled the arb out and tried to remove the n/s plate again. It just wont budge at all for some reason,ive actually stripped the thread in the plate with the M12 bolt ive bashed it and even heated it up and its not budging still.....so now i have a car with a new ARB fitted with no end plates on it so i now have no car to use...aaarrrrrgggghhhh!!!!!!!!Ive put a wanted post in the appropriate section but if anyone has a n/s ARB end plate thats off the bar please let me know as i need one yesterday!! |
Posted 12th Mar 2011 at 18:27
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matt evans
Seasoned Pro Location: Stourbridge Registered: 16 Sep 2009 Posts: 2,290 Status: Offline |
Post #2
The splines can be rusted like buggery and its nigh on impossible to budge them________________________________________ 1999 Astor Grey GTi-6 OEM+ (now gone...)2004 Aegean Blue 206 GTi 180 (also gone...) 2006 Skoda Fabia vRS in Sprint Yellow honestly3k wrote: Do you wrestle for a living matt? You sound like a monster owain wrote: Nothing involving a 306 can be considered worthwhile. |
Posted 12th Mar 2011 at 19:10
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lammylama
Regular Location: godstone Registered: 17 Nov 2009 Posts: 228 Status: Offline |
Post #3
thats whats happened mate...now im stuck until i get another plate.....ive just had another go and it aint going nowhere!!!!!!! |
Posted 12th Mar 2011 at 20:16
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matt evans
Seasoned Pro Location: Stourbridge Registered: 16 Sep 2009 Posts: 2,290 Status: Offline |
Post #4
Both mine were siezed, i ended up cutting the one off in order to get the ARB out. Luckily i had a spare one to use.... ________________________________________ 1999 Astor Grey GTi-6 OEM+ (now gone...)2004 Aegean Blue 206 GTi 180 (also gone...) 2006 Skoda Fabia vRS in Sprint Yellow honestly3k wrote: Do you wrestle for a living matt? You sound like a monster owain wrote: Nothing involving a 306 can be considered worthwhile. |
Posted 12th Mar 2011 at 20:21
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daveyboy
aka Jim Davey Location: Southampton Registered: 01 Oct 2007 Posts: 8,648 Status: Offline |
Post #5
Big vice + big drift + big hammer + copious ammounts of oxy/acetylene = WIN________________________________________ R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.Some of my services: (See my for sale threads) Engine mount/chassis repair Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION Harness bars |
Posted 12th Mar 2011 at 20:50
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welshpug!
Capt Pedantic Location: Bigend, Wales. Registered: 27 Mar 2007 Posts: 25,838 Status: Offline |
Post #6
you did use an M12 x 1.5 bolt not a standard 1.75 pitch thread didn't you?you can use it just fine without the ARB, it'll just lean a bit ________________________________________ need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.comBring on the Trumpets. |
Posted 12th Mar 2011 at 21:24
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lammylama
Regular Location: godstone Registered: 17 Nov 2009 Posts: 228 Status: Offline |
Post #7
daveyboy wrote: Big vice + big drift + big hammer + copious ammounts of oxy/acetylene = WIN No vice,no big drift and no oxy/aceylene = NO WIN lol |
Posted 12th Mar 2011 at 21:49
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daveyboy
aka Jim Davey Location: Southampton Registered: 01 Oct 2007 Posts: 8,648 Status: Offline |
Post #8
EFAlammylama wrote: No vice,no big drift and no oxy/aceylene = I FAIL ________________________________________ R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.Some of my services: (See my for sale threads) Engine mount/chassis repair Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION Harness bars |
Posted 14th Mar 2011 at 14:47
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l_e_cook
Newbie Location: gt yarmouth Registered: 31 Jan 2011 Posts: 28 Status: Offline |
Post #9
quote: No vice,no big drift and no oxy/aceylene = NO WIN lol No vice,no big drift and no oxy/aceylene = FAIL!!!! Lol |
Posted 23rd Mar 2011 at 04:07
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clen666
Seasoned Pro Location: Co. Durham Registered: 12 Feb 2009 Posts: 2,401 Status: Offline |
Post #10
I don't suppose anyone has come up with a miraculous new method to remove these have they? I am also of the 'no win/ fail' group, being without any of the heavy-duty tools mentioned above, and using the bolt just isn't budging it. ________________________________________ Team 'unintentional rat look' |
Posted 13th Oct 2011 at 20:55
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pete_rallye
Seasoned Pro Location: Yorkshire Registered: 12 Dec 2002 Posts: 5,253 Status: Offline |
Post #11
Not the quickest method but if you blather it in WD40 or similar and leave for a day they will come off alright. Like has been said, they get rusted on, so soak em in oil and leave it to penetrate. Strangely one side always seem to come off easily and the other is a pain...________________________________________ Oulton Park in a BTCC 306 vid 1Oulton Park in a BTCC 306 vid 2 Lap of the 'ring |
Posted 13th Oct 2011 at 21:05
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clen666
Seasoned Pro Location: Co. Durham Registered: 12 Feb 2009 Posts: 2,401 Status: Offline |
Post #12
I've left it soaking so will try again tomorrow.One problem is the threads on the right side plate are basically flat with rust and I'm struggling to clear them. Hopefully that is the easier side once I can get them clear! Are the plates still available from pug should I completely feck them? ________________________________________ Team 'unintentional rat look' |
Posted 13th Oct 2011 at 21:13
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jord294
Seasoned Pro Location: somewhere in north wales Registered: 09 Nov 2009 Posts: 3,110 Status: Offline |
Post #13
£45 each the end platesi must of been really lucky lately. as the last few 306 beams i've stripped, the caps have come off easy from both sides i've also found that not any m12 x 1.50 bolt will do i now use a front brake caliper bolt, to start things, and then a rear caliper bolt to get the full distance ________________________________________ FRESHLY RE-FURBISHED GTI BEAMSFITTING AND LOWERING AVAILABLE. ALL AXLES BUILT USING GENUINE PEUGEOT PARTS IF I'M NOT HERE, IT ONLY MEANS ONE THING.... I'M SOMEWHERE ELSE! |
Posted 13th Oct 2011 at 21:18
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monkeyman
Seasoned Pro Location: Sunny St Albans Registered: 01 Oct 2008 Posts: 1,955 Status: Offline |
Post #14
Penetrating oil or diesel are both good at loosening things. Put a dab of copper grease onto the ends before refitting to reduce future siezures.________________________________________ Spanner Monkeys Monkey SpannerForum Search Clicky |
Posted 13th Oct 2011 at 21:24
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clen666
Seasoned Pro Location: Co. Durham Registered: 12 Feb 2009 Posts: 2,401 Status: Offline |
Post #15
how much?!that's interesting about the caliper bolts though, I was just using a random 8.8 m12 x 1.5 bolt and it started to deform its threads before any movement of the plate ________________________________________ Team 'unintentional rat look' |
Posted 13th Oct 2011 at 21:30
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welshpug!
Capt Pedantic Location: Bigend, Wales. Registered: 27 Mar 2007 Posts: 25,838 Status: Offline |
Post #16
I use a pug XU Iron block head bolt with the end ground so its flat I don't think I've ever had an issue removing one, the left hand end p[late is always a little tougher as its pulled fully onto the splines whereas the r/h is not. Any penetrating stuff tbh is useless due to the tight fit and access to the splines, heat will suffice if necessary though ________________________________________ need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.comBring on the Trumpets. |
Posted 13th Oct 2011 at 21:31
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clen666
Seasoned Pro Location: Co. Durham Registered: 12 Feb 2009 Posts: 2,401 Status: Offline |
Post #17
Hmm suppose I'll just have to concentrate on the right side then.Any tips on clearing the threads? I don't have access to a tap but may need to invest in a set ________________________________________ Team 'unintentional rat look' |
Posted 13th Oct 2011 at 21:40
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clen666
Seasoned Pro Location: Co. Durham Registered: 12 Feb 2009 Posts: 2,401 Status: Offline |
Post #18
Managed to get the threads cleared and the plate off using jord's method of using caliper bolts, cheers for the advice fellas.Just those bloody torsion bars to deal with now... ________________________________________ Team 'unintentional rat look' |
Posted 14th Oct 2011 at 13:01
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demondriverdan
Seasoned Pro Location: Londinium Registered: 29 Nov 2010 Posts: 2,665 Status: Offline |
Post #19
Update to and old thread as I'm having the same issue. Tried everything to get the plates off but neither will move and the threads are non-existent on both sides (M12x1.5 bolt basically slides straight in).We've tried heat and chisels and the damn things won't move. Any ideas? ________________________________________ Rallye Race Car |
Posted 29th Dec 2012 at 18:47
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Niall
Seasoned Pro Location: Epsom Registered: 06 Jun 2012 Posts: 1,941 Status: Offline |
Post #20
i also had this issue the other day when fitting my new TBs. Luckily i could just rotate the ARB to get the bars in/out but i would like to do a beam refurb soon which would require me taking the ARB out so any suggestions for doing it on the car would be good! |
Posted 29th Dec 2012 at 19:07
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demondriverdan
Seasoned Pro Location: Londinium Registered: 29 Nov 2010 Posts: 2,665 Status: Offline |
Post #21
Niall wrote: i also had this issue the other day when fitting my new TBs. Luckily i could just rotate the ARB to get the bars in/out but i would like to do a beam refurb soon which would require me taking the ARB out so any suggestions for doing it on the car would be good! Probably doing the same as me, I'm rebuilding the beam for the hybrid ARB and bigger TBs. Once TB came out really easily but the other seems to be stuck firm. Turning in to a right PITA this is! ________________________________________ Rallye Race Car |
Posted 29th Dec 2012 at 19:10
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welshpug!
Capt Pedantic Location: Bigend, Wales. Registered: 27 Mar 2007 Posts: 25,838 Status: Offline |
Post #22
put a bolt in the rhs and beat it inwards if there are no threads left, punch the arb right out of the plate through the beam.________________________________________ need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.comBring on the Trumpets. |
Posted 29th Dec 2012 at 19:47
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demondriverdan
Seasoned Pro Location: Londinium Registered: 29 Nov 2010 Posts: 2,665 Status: Offline |
Post #23
That was my next plan. Think I'm going to use a centre punch instead as it's probably stronger than the bolt ________________________________________ Rallye Race Car |
Posted 29th Dec 2012 at 20:51
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welshpug!
Capt Pedantic Location: Bigend, Wales. Registered: 27 Mar 2007 Posts: 25,838 Status: Offline |
Post #24
nah, centre punch too small and brittle________________________________________ need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.comBring on the Trumpets. |
Posted 29th Dec 2012 at 21:10
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demondriverdan
Seasoned Pro Location: Londinium Registered: 29 Nov 2010 Posts: 2,665 Status: Offline |
Post #25
We've got some pretty big punches (came as part of a chisel set). Worth a shot anyway.________________________________________ Rallye Race Car |
Posted 29th Dec 2012 at 21:13
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