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Author Subject: Battery cutoffs
owain

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Post #26
Had a look at the CBS website, it mentions 100A continuous, but it's not clear whether that's for the main battery connection or the smaller ones. Still, if it's been fine on yours I'm sure it will be on mine.

As far as I can see from that pic one of the connectors one has two yellow wires, just multimeter to see which one's the feed and which is the return? I can see me ordering up some cable and doing just that Wink

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Posted 11th Sep 2011 at 17:39
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demondriverdan

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Post #27
Rather than start a new thread, I'll ask in here.

I'm looking to install 2 switches, one for internal cut-off and one for external cut-off for racing in the future (may as well get it all done now). I'm relocating the battery to the boot as well.

Where would be best to cut into for these 2 switches (slight wiring novice here!)?

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Posted 23rd Aug 2012 at 21:00
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owain

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Post #28
Take a look at what I did, you'd just have to extend the ignition and battery wires through another switch as well, so that both had to be closed for the engine to run.

You'd need the full cut-off switch for both - resistor, battery cutoff and engine cutoff - as only one switch would be shorting to earth at a time only one resistor would be used so no need to change resistors or anything.

Basically, wire up two switches in series Yes

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Posted 23rd Aug 2012 at 21:05
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demondriverdan

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Post #29
I read your entire thread earlier, must've forgotten this bit!

So I need 2 of these bad boys: http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/battery-isolators-master-switches/autolec-fia-battery-master-cut-out-switch and one of these http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/battery-isolators-master-switches/lifeline-locking-t-handle-pull-cable

Then put tie the pull cord onto the key of one of the switches (through the little hole)?

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Posted 23rd Aug 2012 at 22:18
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owain

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Post #30
Switches yes, never used he pull cord though. I guess that's how they work though Dunno

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Posted 23rd Aug 2012 at 22:22
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demondriverdan

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Post #31
I'm guessing that's how they work, not completely sure! Think I might just go with the external one for now, mounting up a lot of costs for a battery change!

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Posted 23rd Aug 2012 at 22:24
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buzzbrightyear

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Post #32
Why do you need 2 switches and a pull cord? That would give 3 locations to switch it off then wouldn't it?

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Posted 23rd Aug 2012 at 22:45
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Matt_rallye

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Post #33
What's the best way to wire up one switch in the cabin?
Posted 23rd Aug 2012 at 23:16
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owain

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Post #34
Matt_rallye wrote:
What's the best way to wire up one switch in the cabin?


You mean with a pull cord or just the switch? Either way it needs to be mounted to something solid, they're capable of switching hundreds of amps so it takes a surprising amount of torque to turn the key, so it's no good mounting it in some flimsy bit of panel.

There are pictures in my link above that show how I did it.

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Posted 24th Aug 2012 at 07:53
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demondriverdan

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Post #35
buzzbrightyear wrote:
Why do you need 2 switches and a pull cord? That would give 3 locations to switch it off then wouldn't it?


How do you wire the pull cord in if it's not attached to a key of a switch?

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Posted 24th Aug 2012 at 08:40
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Matt_rallye

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Post #36
I'm thinking of getting one with just the turn on the key, from what I see there are two types, one with just two battery terminals, and another with two battery terminals and then two male spade connections?
Posted 24th Aug 2012 at 08:53
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owain

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Post #37
The latter is the one you need, it cuts the ignition as well as the battery, then shorts your live to earth to stop the power spike from frying your alternator.

Just cutting off the battery won't do anything, as the alternator will keep the engine running.

Without the four spade connectors, it's just a battery isolator - nothing more. You need the full one with resistor and spade terminals to actually stop the engine.

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Posted 24th Aug 2012 at 09:03
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Matt_rallye

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Post #38
Link to a decent one?

Also any chance of knocking up a simple wiring diagram? I'm crap with electrics lol.

Posted 24th Aug 2012 at 09:13
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owain

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Post #39
Get the one Dan linked to above from Demon Tweeks, it comes with a very simple wiring diagram in the box Yes

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Posted 24th Aug 2012 at 09:15
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Matt_rallye

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Post #40
Link to a decent one?

Also any chance of knocking up a simple wiring diagram? I'm crap with electrics lol.

Posted 24th Aug 2012 at 09:16
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daveyboy

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Post #41
You only need one pull cord and one switch, on cars where you see two the other one is for a fire extinguisher.

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Posted 24th Aug 2012 at 09:17
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Matt_rallye

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Post #42
Pull cord? What's that for? Is it needed? I'd prefer just a key, I'll check out dans link now
Posted 24th Aug 2012 at 09:25
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owain

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Post #43
daveyboy wrote:
You only need one pull cord and one switch, on cars where you see two the other one is for a fire extinguisher.


That's what I thought, but mine's not exactly built to FIA spec so wasn't sure Dunno

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Posted 24th Aug 2012 at 09:27
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demondriverdan

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Post #44
So I could run the pull cord onto the key of the cut off switch in the cabin? Would be easier than having two switches!

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Posted 24th Aug 2012 at 10:28
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daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

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Post #45
demondriverdan wrote:
So I could run the pull cord onto the key of the cut off switch in the cabin? Would be easier than having two switches!


Yes, thats what the little hole in the end of the key is for.

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R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.

Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
Engine mount/chassis repair
Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION
Harness bars
Posted 24th Aug 2012 at 10:29
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demondriverdan

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Post #46
daveyboy wrote:
demondriverdan wrote:
So I could run the pull cord onto the key of the cut off switch in the cabin? Would be easier than having two switches!


Yes, thats what the little hole in the end of the key is for.


Thought so, didn't think the cable would be long enough to reach the switch in the cabin. Saves some money though! Smile

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Posted 24th Aug 2012 at 10:31
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daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

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Post #47
The pull cables come in different lengths, obviously you mount the swich in the cabin where you can reach it, the pull cord is so sombody outside the car can isolate if if you are unconcious/decapitated/impaled/busy burning...

________________________________________

R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.

Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
Engine mount/chassis repair
Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION
Harness bars
Posted 24th Aug 2012 at 10:39
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demondriverdan

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Post #48
Awesome, cheers for the info Smile

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Posted 24th Aug 2012 at 10:50
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Matt_rallye

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Post #49
Ahhh suppose that makes sense, I kinda only want mine to stop people being able to start the car lol. As I'm stripping out almost everything and I live in quite a dodgy area, if the battery is cut off and they somehow manage to obtain my keys they won't be able to start it when I remove the red key Smile

And kinda for the look.
Because race car haha
Posted 24th Aug 2012 at 10:52
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buzzbrightyear

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Post #50
daveyboy wrote:
The pull cables come in different lengths, obviously you mount the swich in the cabin where you can reach it, the pull cord is so sombody outside the car can isolate if if you are unconcious/decapitated/impaled/busy burning...


What if the cars rolled onto the switch and it can't be reached

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andrew315rawson@live.co.uk
Moonstone phase 7 gti6
My Project thread: http://www.306gti6.com/forum/showthread.php?id=119992&page=1
Posted 24th Aug 2012 at 11:00
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