Cheers Marco, i doubt i'll shave any time off my personal best this year but i reckon the car on a clear track would easily make it into the 8:20's, it's just hard to achieve with so much traffic on there on a TF day.

Yeah hopefully we'll meet up again this year, we'll all be going over at some point, just waiting for the calendar to be released before we decide when.

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Goldie the track car.

Did a little more on the car this week, tacked the wishbones together so i could test fit them and check i'd not dropped a bollock when designing them, so far so good give or take a mm or two.

I forgot to take a photo of them fitted to the car as it decided to throw it down as soon as i'd got them fitted and i was in a rush to get all my tools out of the rain and go for a test drive in my mates new car, but here is a shot of them on the floor.

IMG_2874 by Steve Count, on Flickr

Also started to relocate my alternator.

IMG_2873 by Steve Count, on Flickr

Plenty of new parts for me to start machining this week to get the car ready to be put back together, i've spoke to a mate about the upright pins and i've decided to change the design of them somewhat to make them much stronger, a bit of a shame since i spent a fair amount of time making the last ones but it would be silly to miss the opportunity of added strength for a bit of extra effort.

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Goldie the track car.

Cheers Phill, it would have been a whole lot easier and cheaper to just buy yours!

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Goldie the track car.

Also started to relocate my alternator.


More details on your belt setup? What will you be using for a tension the belt?

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I'd personally go with a conventional drop pin, actually clamping the rose joint to the hub rather than relying on the just clamp. It's a notorious weak spot IMO.

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Pete, although the arm is straight I imagine the hub will still be forward of the front pivot. It'll just mean the front inner rose joint runs at an angle rather than dead square. Thats how theyre nornally done, much easier to make that way

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Chris, i've got a 5PK736 belt ready to go on, to tension the belt i'm making a tie rod which will have a rose joint at each end, that will push the alternator away from the engine mount. I won't get any more pics of that until next week as i'm going away this weekend and the dividing head is stuck on one of the cnc millers at the moment so havent had chance to mill a hexagon on the rod yet.

With regards to the drop pin i've just mocked this up in cad to show what my current plans are for it, this new version will now clamp the rose joint to the hub with a spacer between them, yes i'll just have a single bolt groove so there will be no waisted section. The pins will be made out of EN24, the thread at the bottom that i'll be using to clamp it all together with will be M14x1.5, can't afford to go any bigger due to clearance issues with the brake disc.

[Image lost]

What do you think to this new design Allan and Phill?

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Goldie the track car.

With the dry sump mine is now like this





With the old wet sump used to sit on the old ac sump mounts

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Thanks Pete.

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Goldie the track car.

Actually mine is canted forwards, they're bang on the standard wishbone geometery if you wind the joints in. I don't build the arm by getting the front arm straight, I built them to the standard geometry on a jig so they can be adjusted out from there - I can wind enough castor on that the wheel hits the front of the arch, I ran it like this as a daily:



With some adjustment left.

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Well the track rods were removed from the car and shortened, then drilled and tapped deeper again to allow my extenders to fit in.
I've tacked up the wishbones, checked them then had them fully tig welded, then had them powdercoated. Very pleased with how they look off the car, almost seems a shame to fit them knowing they will get dirty.

I've also bought another gearbox which im currently cleaning up ready for paint, and hopefully a good driveshaft in the post to me, all being well the weather will be nice next weekend and i can crack on with getting the new box/shaft/wishbones on and the car back on it's wheels.

Then it just needs the geometry setting up, which i think i've found a garage that will do it. I usually get my tyres changed there and they always show an interest in the car so i may ask if i can just go in some time when they're quiet or out of hours and do the setting up myself for some beer tokens.

Once the geometry is set i want to get fresh oil in it and replace the cambelt and it should be ready for another year of trackdays.

Few teaser pics.

IMG_2933 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_2893 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_2945 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_2901 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_2902 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_2907 by Steve Count, on Flickr

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Goldie the track car.

I cant find the exact link on ebay, i'm sure its the same one as Rallyeash is using, which i believe were intended for use on forklifts. I seem to remember it's only rated at 50A output, and i suspect its kicking out a bit too much voltage as i've blown pretty much all the filaments in the heated windscreen.
I got mine for around £120 freshly refurbished/remanufactured, the pulley on it is for 5 rib belts though, worth noting incase you want to run other stuff which use more (std is 6 rib iirc). Not really a problem for me at the moment though as thats the only thing running off the crank pulley.

Cheers mate.

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Goldie the track car.