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Author Subject: Track Cars for Dummies
phillipm

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Post #226
cwspellowe wrote:
Sounds daft, but if it's caused by resonance what about some kind of rubber buffer or something between the carriers/pads? Obviously some kind of magic rubber that doesn't melt at VHT's Doh

Kevlar mebby?


You can get backing pads from mintex that are exactly what you describe, 3M do 'em too.

Wavy discs'll sort it if I get chance to make some over the winter.

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Posted 21st Sep 2010 at 01:36
cwspellowe

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Post #227
I think i want some wavy discs tbh. Just for aesthetic pleasure LOL

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Posted 21st Sep 2010 at 01:41
owain

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Post #228
Yeah looked into the G88's, £210 for a pair of discs Sir? I'd have to be extremely sure they'd fix the issue before I went for those. And I sure as hell wouldn't be putting Carbone Lorraine pads anywhere near them.

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Posted 21st Sep 2010 at 02:00
adam b

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Post #229
I've driven a 306 S16 with G88s and DS2500 pads using the 406 calipers and they didn't squeal at all. Dan_s16 has the setup on his car.

I bought my 310mm setup second hand for £500 so once you've bought the new discs and pads you need suddenly that didn't seem like a great deal of difference...

Oh and £210 isn't bad if you think the discs on the 310 are £225 and I was using CL RC6s. See you bye discs, but it didn't half stop well.

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Posted 21st Sep 2010 at 13:37
owain

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Post #230
Yeah G88's are probably going to be the way to go, I'll just be happier buying them if I know I've at least tried everything cheap first - I'd really kick myself if I went for years buying £200 discs just to find all it needed was some marmelade behind the pads.

I can handle spending a little at a time to get it sorted, but just don't have £500 odd to slap down in one go Smile

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Posted 21st Sep 2010 at 13:42
rallyestyle

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Post #231
Any idea why the G88's solve the issue then? If its just the grooves then maybe get a machine shop to machine them into a cheaper set of discs?

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Posted 21st Sep 2010 at 15:16
owain

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Post #232
I think it's just as they have so many grooves they have a completely different resonant frequency, so you don't get the issue.

I know it's kinda what they do at the factory anyway, but I'd never be happy having someone machine discs other than the people who made them personally.

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Posted 21st Sep 2010 at 15:18
lotek

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Post #233
just get phills discs Yes its the cheapest option,
and you save shed loads of weight ,then theres the look of them, this is what i was gonna do.
i messed with the idea of retro fitting mk1 focus rs turbo discs or 406 discs but too much hassle.

just get phillips ones Yes im sure you could even get him to add a few mm to the radius of them aswell if you ask nicely. every little helps.
Use your current disc/Ear defender setup till wavys are available.
£150 wavy compared to £350 plus for rotor setup is worth putting up with noise for a little while. Cool
Posted 21st Sep 2010 at 15:36
rallyestyle

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Post #234
I will get some of Phils if he can do a 305mm 406 coupe version for a decent price Smile

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Posted 21st Sep 2010 at 16:09
owain

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Post #235
I heard he makes them out of melted down drain covers...

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Posted 21st Sep 2010 at 17:49
cwspellowe

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Post #236
Phillip's making a batch of wavy discs over winter if funds allow. I've already got my name down for a set Smile

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Bye bye Sundance Kid Sad
Posted 21st Sep 2010 at 22:58
phillipm

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Location: Rotherham

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Post #237
owain wrote:
I heard he makes them out of melted down drain covers...


Nah, I just hammer 'em flat and crack the dremel out.

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Posted 22nd Sep 2010 at 03:57
owain

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Post #238
Aah, obviously I was misinformed. In that case I might have a crack at making some myself, I've got a Dremel and I'm sure I saw a drain out on the road somewhere.

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Posted 22nd Sep 2010 at 13:10
owain

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Post #239
Boo, just tried fitting those Mintex anti-squeal pads and copper slipping it all up, which solved the problem for the standard two minutes.

Might have to just bite the bullet and get some G88's.

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Posted 25th Sep 2010 at 17:59
farmer

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Post #240
O, how much did the lexan cost you roughly to make your own windows mate?

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Posted 26th Sep 2010 at 03:52
owain

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Post #241
I think about £20 a window including delivery, really very little. In fact about a fiver each more than using bog standard glazing plastic, so well worth the extra.

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Posted 26th Sep 2010 at 14:25
owain

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Post #242
Just a quick update before I forget; nothing exciting, so sorry for that.

In my quest for weight saving without losing anything in the way of safety (until I get a roll cage fitted next year, then pretty much every panel can go) I decided to try my best at making a lightweight tailgate for the car. I figure that I can crash in pretty much any way, the steel tailgate is never going to be what saves me.

Knowing how successful these missions normally are, I opted to pick up a second-hand tailgate from Ben (6waysforward) rather than butchering my own. I was tempted to make a joke about having picked it up at a boot sale, but I'm not sure I could have forgiven myself for that.

It's also worth noting at this point that I've borrowed some pretty good scales from work for the weekend, so if I seem suddenly obsessed with weighing everything in sight that's the reason.

Whole lot, 22.4kg. Jeez, that's even more than I expected. Remove the wiper and motor (1.85kg), the spoiler (1.7kg!) and set about removing the glass. Now, I'm determined to do this with the glass in one piece, as I really can't be dealing with clearing up the mess they make when they go; it's not pretty. So, sharp stanley knife in hand I set about cutting away the rubber from the edges. Knowing my own abilities, I'm also fully kitted up with decent gloves and a full face mask. Managed to cut away most of the rubber, then set about prising up a corner.



So, plan B then.

Get rid of the rest of the glass (which by this point just falls away with a touch) and follow round the edges with a Stanley knife cutting away the sealant. Incidentally, I don't suppose there's such thing as a solvent that gets rid of this stuff? Is it just silicone? Pretty sure I had some stuff for getting rid of silicone sealant, but I don't know if this is different stuff. Some time later:



Job done. Kinda. Still need to get rid of some sealant then set about butchering it; the idea is to be able to fit a flat sheet of Lexan in there, so I'll be flattening down some of the flanges in an attempt to make this work. Expect me to be buying up old tailgates left, right and centre.

Job done, and I'm left with a not insignificant amount of broken glass on the floor of the workshop. Not really sure what to do with that, so I'll probably just leave it there and step around it; certainly for the near future anyway.



Anyway it's dark, getting cold and I make that beer o'clock. Laters.

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Posted 8th Oct 2010 at 02:21
eddy_gti6

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Post #243
How heavy is the tailgate at the minute now i has no glass in?

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Posted 8th Oct 2010 at 03:10
owain

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Post #244
Annoyingly I meant to put that in but forgot; I've got it written down at home so I'll check later. I have a feeling it was 8.4kg without the glass, the glass itself was about 10kg.

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Posted 8th Oct 2010 at 12:49
midlife

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Post #245
So, plan B then.

Laugh my ass off

Cool

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Posted 8th Oct 2010 at 13:57
owain

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Post #246
*Always* frickin plan B.

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Posted 8th Oct 2010 at 14:35
lotek

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Post #247
i had the same problem with the glass! LOL

I put a friggin Brick Through It Yes
only to remember about the silicone Sad



Put The fecker in the skip Shortly after along with the failed attempt at single skin bonnet LOL
Posted 8th Oct 2010 at 15:00
pete_rallye

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Post #248
I tried removing the glass once, failed. Second time around I put a tarpaulin down, chucked a brick through the window and broke as much glass off the tailgate as possible, then wrapped it up ad took it to the tip... miles easier! Other option is a hoover, just suck it all up, thats what I did on my first one.

Theres plenty to chop out of the tailgate, mines basically a single skin now except where the hinges are. Doesn't seal against the boot seal anymore though so the boot seal is in the bin, but rain comes in...

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Posted 8th Oct 2010 at 15:53
owain

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Post #249
Nothing a couple of holes drilled in the chassis won't drain out!

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Posted 8th Oct 2010 at 16:13
lotek

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Post #250
a line of expaning foam around the hatch will solve the water leak issue Yes
Posted 8th Oct 2010 at 16:18

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