Cheers mate.

I was in Donny today to see my Dad. (I'm Donny, born and bred, just living in exile in Lincolnshire)




See below.


Let's go then...

First job is to fit the new seal onto the pinion shaft below the valve block.

To aid this I used some red rubber grease.




I am a big fan of rubber lube...

You have to carefully tease the seal on as you are effectively fitting it the wrong way round, the rubber grease helps here and it also means you won't be having a dry seal running on a dry shaft when you are done.

Then on with the new bearing.




Then you have to carefully press the lower of the two top seals in, followed by the INA bearing.




The upper dirt seal goes in from the top.




We are almost ready to insert the pinion back into its housing, but first lube the seals with some rubber lube and the valve block and housing are lubed with ATF.

Then you can stick it in.




You can see how the bearing sticks out of the bottom of the housing here.

Right, now we had better get the rack ready for it.

There is a nylon bush in the end of the rack housing at the opposite side from the pinion.



You see those longitudinal grooves in the bush?

You must NOT let them get filled with grease.

The purpose of those is to allow the air inside the rack gator displace to the other side when the rack moves.

You can put plenty of grease on the geared end of the rack though.

The stuff inside mine was all dried out like toffee when I stripped it down.

Before you fit the rack back into its housing fill the bottom pinion needle bearing with grease whilst you can still get at it.

Then put the new gaitor on the rack and slide it into the housing dry.




Once it is in you can then pump some grease in from the other end to lube the geared end.

I put it in then spread it into place with a paint mixing stick.

Then you can put the pinion back in by carefully tightening the two cap screws evenly to re seat the bearing.

The screws are secured with Loctite 242




So next is the thrust piston, you remembered the order they go in, dont you?

O ring.




Piston with spring inside, shim washer on the outside.




Stick the other three shims onto the top plate with grease then bolt it on, screws loctited again.




With the main rack assembly back together we just need new track rods.




I have no idea what that odd looking washer is for and I don't recall taking any out with the old ones so I didn't use them.

The trackrods are loctited in, of course.

With all this it would be rude not to have new trackrod ends.




And that is it!




Or at least I thought it was...

I have just read the instructions with the trackrod ends, it says that any work on suspension and steering should be carried out by a trained professional, so I now have to strip it all down and give it all to Carl @mechanical_repairs to do it properly

________________________________________

Make tea, not war.

If it ain't broke......fix it until it is.

Thanks mate.


In my haste to post this up last night before I went to bed I forgot to mention a couple of things.

When you put the centre bearing on the pinion shaft, remember to replace the circlip.




As I had forgotten to photograph the circlip, I pulled the pinion out again to do it for you.

This reminded me of another thing I didn't mention, when you re fit the pinion, firstly centralise the rack as best you can, then fit the pinion so the top bit where the joint goes on (when it is fitted into the car) is reasonably 'straight' and not just at any old angle.




You may also have noticed that there is no clip on the O/S rack gaitor.




This is because I fave totally failed in my attempts to fit the b**tard!

Despite having these at my disposal.




I have not yet decided if I am going to get another one to try again or if I am going to use something else entirely.

Anyone got any suggestions?

________________________________________

Make tea, not war.

If it ain't broke......fix it until it is.

Yeah, tried those too!

when I squeezed the two bits up it pulled it off at the joint.

________________________________________

Make tea, not war.

If it ain't broke......fix it until it is.

Mrs, or should I say Dr Tea is currently in a very good mood as she has just passed her PhD.

Her moods, as with any female are a transient thing so I have not encroached upon the kitchen (yet).

That is the conservatory, or, as I like to call it, workshop floor.

________________________________________

Make tea, not war.

If it ain't broke......fix it until it is.

________________________________________

Almost standard 1999 Bianca Rallye
Hilux InvincibleX daily

306 No.13

Carp and specialist Anglers Click here

On numerous occasions Carl, but you are not the only one to do so...




Those bits that the rear beam fixes to (servicebox calls it a flange, so I'll call it that) on my donor axle are from a citroen and it didn't have a rear load valve on it, so I thought I would sort that out.

On the citroen the rear flexis fasten to a bracket on the flange on both sides but on ours the O/S hose fastens to the load valve mounting.

This is the brake hose mounting bracket.




I offered the load valve mount up to see what it would look like.




The rear part of it didn't fit very well onto the flange as there is a bulge pressed into it.

Hmmm... I'd better have a cuppa and a think about it.

Hold on a minute, looks like I am being a complete nob, what if I got the flange for the O/S instead of the N/S, then I might get somewhere?

This one.




It even has the hole already drilled for the load valve mount.




I just needed to drill out the two spot welds on the old bracket. (I stopped just short of drilling all the way through)




So I had to rip it off with some moldy grips.




Tidy up a bit with the power file.




Now when I offered the bracket up it looks a bit more like.



I might get them blasted tomorrow.

________________________________________

Make tea, not war.

If it ain't broke......fix it until it is.

The bracket is new, I also have a new load valve which has been in stock for months because I am sick of having to free this one off.



I got new stuff because I wanted to build up the axle ready to swap straight over and, as I said, my citroen axle didn't have these bits on for me to restore.

Looking at that picture above, I may have to do something about the rear floor whilst the beam is off....

________________________________________

Make tea, not war.

If it ain't broke......fix it until it is.

Don't be too disheartened, just do your usual trick and work your magic and it will be as good as new in no time.

________________________________________

Goldie the track car.

Thanks for the support chaps, I need cheering up.

I have resorted to brown booze to take my mind off it.

In the meantime I did a bit of fannying around with my trailing arms.

These are citroen VTS ones which are not exactly the same as they have some bits screwed on where the bump stops are.

They came off quite easily with the impact driver so I could clean underneath them.




As you can see, I have given the arms a bit of a going over with the shot blaster.

I don't want to paint them yet until I have pressed in the new shafts, so I stuck some of that hydrate 80 stuff on them to keep the rust off for now.




I am still properly annoyed about the sill, it has rusted purely due to crap workmanship on the part of whichever body shop fitted it.

I have yet to find a body man/painter who is even half as good as he thinks he is.

Just look at this, they have painted the vertical side of the quarter but there is feck all on the underside.




His mum must have fastened his braces too tight so he couldn't bend over to do it.

Obviously his mum dresses him because the useless cnut wouldn't be able to do it himself.

Did I mention that I was annoyed?

________________________________________

Make tea, not war.

If it ain't broke......fix it until it is.

reshell

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need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

Bring on the Trumpets.

Cmon tea update the thread, let everyone see the pink new one you have bought.

Carl

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C.G.Cars of Leicester, Peugeot/Citroen/Renault specialist Tel: 01162 624498/07799 405184 WWW.CGCARSLEICESTER.CO.UK
36 narborough road south, Leicester LE3 2fn

MOT station now open, tests £35 with a free retest.
Recovery available with a recovery unit, for those not so local jobs

Also offer the loan of a free courtesy car 306 dturbo

To be fair it is a total shed and it drives like a pig.

It needs all the bits that I bought for the black one.

________________________________________

Make tea, not war.

If it ain't broke......fix it until it is.