displaying posts 51 to 75 of 89

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Author Subject: supercharging gti6
mabgti

NV motors

Location: Bham tunnel @7400rpm

Registered: 28 Aug 2003

Posts: 9,127

Status: Offline

Post #51
You wanna get it fully hardpiped.. i had to use a special 3">2.5" cast reducer for mine. Its the difference in vacuum at manifold and charger that does itYes



I use only silicone couplers with alloy bends.. make the world of difference to throttle responseYes

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Posted 13th Mar 2010 at 01:14
birk

Seasoned Pro

Location: Doncaster

Registered: 24 Oct 2005

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Post #52
2nd that mabs, noticed a big difference when i hard piped mine the other month.

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Posted 13th Mar 2010 at 01:16
allesclar

Seasoned Pro

Location: Sheffield

Registered: 17 May 2009

Posts: 4,254

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Post #53
mabgti wrote:
You wanna get it fully hardpiped.. i had to use a special 3">2.5" cast reducer for mine. Its the difference in vacuum at manifold and charger that does itYes



I use only silicone couplers with alloy bends.. make the world of difference to throttle responseYes


is the heat wrap any good on the boost pipe mabz?

i think your coolant cap is coming off. Wink

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Posted 13th Mar 2010 at 01:18
mabgti

NV motors

Location: Bham tunnel @7400rpm

Registered: 28 Aug 2003

Posts: 9,127

Status: Offline

Post #54
i noticed the alloypipe heat up at pod queuein last year, so thought heat wrap wouldnt do it any harm.. ill log the inlet temps when i get the DTA fitted..

rad cap is fine.. nissens rad hence not the best fit.

________________________________________

Team Supercharged Gti-6

NV Motorsport
Automotive Performance Tuning
0121 448 7515
ECU Remapping/ DPF removal
VAG/BMW Diag and Option Coding
Peugeot Planet ECU coding/transponder programming etc
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Posted 14th Mar 2010 at 01:41
drumfinpete

Newbie

Location: ballymena

Registered: 15 Dec 2009

Posts: 46

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Post #55
will do guys thanks again, do you have any suppliers for the pipe and what size is the throttle intake i dont want to go back to the tuners again, to measure it,

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p millar
Posted 14th Mar 2010 at 03:08
drumfinpete

Newbie

Location: ballymena

Registered: 15 Dec 2009

Posts: 46

Status: Offline

Post #56
hi guys, still having no luck with this car, went and lifted it today after remapping it will only start when it wants to, wont idle, runs like its on 2 cylinders dont think the tuners have a clue they have the new chip installed but its doing exactly what it did when i left it in he says diagonistic plug is broken and thinks it is another coil pack away i already got him one last week he blames the iridium plugs so now it has the standard plugs, it started first time today but wouldnt take throttle for 30 seconds ran lumpy farts and bangs then stops tried it again when i got it home wont start at all, any ideas

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p millar
Posted 20th Mar 2010 at 03:14
allanallen

Seasoned Pro

Location: Buxton

Registered: 01 May 2007

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Post #57
What exactlys on the new chip? A base map or something they've written?

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Posted 20th Mar 2010 at 04:27
drumfinpete

Newbie

Location: ballymena

Registered: 15 Dec 2009

Posts: 46

Status: Offline

Post #58
it is a new base programe written by chip wizard in the uk one he has used before i have left it with a local mechanic to check the timing as i changed the belt and am worried that it may be off slightly on one of the cams, either that or a broken wire somewhere. thats my theory but as you know thats not worth much. getting really fed up with it now thinking of packing it all in and breaking it.

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p millar
Posted 30th Mar 2010 at 22:34
greenbelt

Seasoned Pro

Location: How's Life In London?

Registered: 23 Apr 2006

Posts: 1,961

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Post #59
drumfinpete wrote:
it is a new base programe written by chip wizard in the uk one he has used before i have left it with a local mechanic to check the timing as i changed the belt and am worried that it may be off slightly on one of the cams, either that or a broken wire somewhere. thats my theory but as you know thats not worth much. getting really fed up with it now thinking of packing it all in and breaking it.


Keep the faith mate Yes

I wanted to torch mine a couple of times when I was fitting my Rich_W kit last year. It will be worth it when you finally get it sorted.
Also I had problems with Iridium plugs as the idle wasn't great and it was running way too hot. Try the NGK ones instead.
Check and double check all your wiring too. It's not always easy to see if there are breaks.
Other than that, good luck Smile

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Posted 30th Mar 2010 at 22:50
rich_w

Seasoned Pro

Location: Havant, Hampshire

Registered: 29 Jul 2004

Posts: 5,412

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Post #60
drumfinpete wrote:
it is a new base programe written by chip wizard in the uk one he has used before i have left it with a local mechanic to check the timing as i changed the belt and am worried that it may be off slightly on one of the cams, either that or a broken wire somewhere. thats my theory but as you know thats not worth much. getting really fed up with it now thinking of packing it all in and breaking it.



You need to find out more about what software they've fitted to the ECU.

Chipwizard's won't send out files, or base maps - the only way he will do anything to a car is if it's sat in his dyno cell.

I'm not sure, but maybe somehow you've got hold of one of my base files written by Chipwizards.

If this is the case it would explain the issues you are having, it's written for a completely different set-up.

Unless you find a mechanical fault, I was just go and get a bespoke re-map from Wayne.

Smile

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Posted 30th Mar 2010 at 23:07
daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

Location: Southampton

Registered: 01 Oct 2007

Posts: 8,648

Status: Offline

Post #61
Would it not be an idea to weld a downturned 90 degree bend right onto the end of the inlet? That would save on another joint.

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Posted 30th Mar 2010 at 23:27
drumfinpete

Newbie

Location: ballymena

Registered: 15 Dec 2009

Posts: 46

Status: Offline

Post #62
the car was not running right before i took it to them always sounded like it was on 2 cylinders was ok before i started the mods, now i have got laid off so no cash for any thing, as far as i know he sent the chip details by internet to waynr and he sent back a new base map but the car is running worse than before if anything. i think it is something simple and not the mapping ok it will still need set up once its running on all cylinders

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p millar
Posted 2nd Apr 2010 at 00:48
maxwell

Junior User

Location: Carrickfergus

Registered: 18 Jul 2009

Posts: 72

Status: Offline

Post #63
just heard about this conversion from a mate! sounds like a good wee project considering the 306s you normally see knocking about ballymena lol

will have to keep an eye on it!
Posted 13th Apr 2010 at 05:38
drumfinpete

Newbie

Location: ballymena

Registered: 15 Dec 2009

Posts: 46

Status: Offline

Post #64
hi finally got the car running jump started it at 60 mph as a last resort and it fired up it is now starting on the button and running and idling pretty good but i have no power less than standard its also sucking in the pipe from the charger to the intercooler on throttle and always shows negative on the boost gauge. tested the guage and is working fine thought i had charger plumed in wrong way for a second. removed the feed pipe to the inlet manifold and blanked off the pipe and started it and it put the pressure off the scale at 2+ bar so there are no leaks and the charger is in the right way. any ideas
my theory is the charger is not putting out enough air to feed the engine as i have no air filter fitted at present and i am using the std throttle body i assume the charger is not turning quickly enough and need a smaller wheel. what do you think

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p millar
Posted 17th Apr 2010 at 23:25
drumfinpete

Newbie

Location: ballymena

Registered: 15 Dec 2009

Posts: 46

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Post #65
took off the recirc pipe from the boost valve to give the charger more air and it created a tiny bit of boost where there was strong vacumn before but does not run well with pipe open any ideas would be welcomed

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p millar
Posted 18th Apr 2010 at 22:00
smegal

Seasoned Pro

Location: Leeds

Registered: 26 Dec 2005

Posts: 5,940

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Post #66
I'd try a smaller charger pulley for a start.

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Posted 18th Apr 2010 at 22:13
drumfinpete

Newbie

Location: ballymena

Registered: 15 Dec 2009

Posts: 46

Status: Offline

Post #67
opened the second inlet on the charger and it seems to have helped the pipe does not suck in any more and i seem to be showing 1 or 2 psi pressure on the gauge now rather than 7 psi vacumn. opened the blow off pipe into the charger as well and was getting 3 - 4 psi on the gauge how much boost should i aim for on standard engine and 440 cc injectors.

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p millar
Posted 21st Apr 2010 at 00:04
smegal

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Location: Leeds

Registered: 26 Dec 2005

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Post #68
7-8 to be in line with the rotrex type conversions? I would certainly not go much higher than 9psi especially with the type of charger used.

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Now in a Megane R26
Posted 21st Apr 2010 at 00:32
drumfinpete

Newbie

Location: ballymena

Registered: 15 Dec 2009

Posts: 46

Status: Offline

Post #69
some photos of current set up to help explain things

drumfinpete has attached the following image:

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p millar
Posted 26th Apr 2010 at 00:52
drumfinpete

Newbie

Location: ballymena

Registered: 15 Dec 2009

Posts: 46

Status: Offline

Post #70


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p millar
Posted 26th Apr 2010 at 00:54
drumfinpete

Newbie

Location: ballymena

Registered: 15 Dec 2009

Posts: 46

Status: Offline

Post #71

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p millar
Posted 26th Apr 2010 at 00:59
drumfinpete

Newbie

Location: ballymena

Registered: 15 Dec 2009

Posts: 46

Status: Offline

Post #72


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p millar
Posted 26th Apr 2010 at 01:02
mabgti

NV motors

Location: Bham tunnel @7400rpm

Registered: 28 Aug 2003

Posts: 9,127

Status: Offline

Post #73
suprised you havent done your research.. that dump valve will do nothing there. You need to work out crank to charger ratio.

________________________________________

Team Supercharged Gti-6

NV Motorsport
Automotive Performance Tuning
0121 448 7515
ECU Remapping/ DPF removal
VAG/BMW Diag and Option Coding
Peugeot Planet ECU coding/transponder programming etc
www.nvmotorsport.com
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Project S6
Posted 26th Apr 2010 at 01:20
allanallen

Seasoned Pro

Location: Buxton

Registered: 01 May 2007

Posts: 1,399

Status: Offline

Post #74
Pete, get rid of the dumpvalve and block the holes up. You don't need a dump valve when your throttle body is up-stream from your charger!
The only way air should be able to get into the system is through the throttle body so block all the other holes up. Other holes after the throttle body will allow un-metered air into the system and it wont run properly.
All your pipes need to be hardpiped, before and after the charger. Under load the pipe between the throttle and the charger will close up and not let air through. The pipes after the charger will close up under closed throttle when there is vac in the system.
As per are pms your pulley ratio should be spot on, I will check the sizes of my pulleys when i'm in the garage later on and let you know for a comparison.

You will see negative boost pressure when at idle and driving around under no load/small throttle openings. You'll see positive pressure when you get the throttle well open and the engine under load.

Your system should go;

Airfilter
Throttle body
Charger
Intercooler
Inlet manifold

All connections as mentioned need to be solid, you can use silicone hose to join solid pipes but only small lengths so they can't collapse.

Probably a daft question but is your charger belt tensioned up properly?

Good luck, al

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Posted 26th Apr 2010 at 13:25
drumfinpete

Newbie

Location: ballymena

Registered: 15 Dec 2009

Posts: 46

Status: Offline

Post #75
hi guys, still having major diffs with this project, took the car to a different tuner who worked out the map sensor needed to be on the inlet manifold, this cured the misfiring and running on 2 cylinders. had hard piped everything and removed stupid blow off valve as instructed. but we still had no power less than standard and still showing vacumn under full throttle. and up to -8 psi vaucumn at idle or low revs,we assumed the engine is demanding more air than the charger is providing and decided to reconfigure the set up mto give the charger unrestricted air, layout is
air filter (or lack of)
charger
intercooler
throttle
manifold
still have no power and vacumn as before and will only run properly at tick over or full throttle

i think the problem is with the charger either its f*cked or not running fast enough to create pressure but why is everyone else getting away with the standard pulley ? and is there any way of testing if the charger is working properly, i blocked the end of the pipe and it put the gauge off the clock on throttle, how do i work out the ratio of the crank to the charger

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p millar
Posted 18th Jul 2010 at 15:18

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