No still no luck yet mate.

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Team Ducati 748
2003 Subaru Impreza STi

The gearbox feels fine 90% of the time and i can easily select every gear, but when it all starts acting up i cant select any

I did try spacing the clutch cable out by fixing a nut into the end of the cable and it's helped it a bit, i.e doesnt happen as often now

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Team Ducati 748
2003 Subaru Impreza STi

There's fook all movement mate, trust.

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Team Ducati 748
2003 Subaru Impreza STi

It's more than a little notchiness,Worst thing I found was was trying to engage the lower gears (coming down),feels as if the travel of the linkage is going past its limit.i.e as if the the cap is going past the holder.I gave it a bit of a boot through the whole range goes like a good one it's a bit floppy on the stick ,but I've never driven one with a quickshift so I can't compare it.Sorry I havn't got back to you on this will but I've been up to my pits in stuff.

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pet hate, the cat

Marty, the gearstick feels much better now i;ve removed the quickshift, and i've now got Miles's adjustable group N rods. Feels much 'tighter' now so at least thats something

Thanks Ryan, the gromet you mentioned that goes into the bulkhead - i noticed when fitting the cable both times it wouldn't slot in properly so it isn't flush with the bulkhead.

Never thought something so small could cause this, but now as you say it happened on your 205 i'll try plug it in properly.

Trouble is the master cylinder is right in the way

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Team Ducati 748
2003 Subaru Impreza STi

ok mate, thanks for that

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Team Ducati 748
2003 Subaru Impreza STi

Ok i had a look at the cable grommit which sits infront of the bulkhead. Had about an hours wiggling and all sorts but couldn't get it closer to the bulkhead - so i assume its where its meant to be.

Fortunately, my aircon pipes and heat shield are non existent so i had relatively decent access but that servo is still right in the way to get a decent look/push.

Still open to suggestions

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Team Ducati 748
2003 Subaru Impreza STi

Berger had a problem like this with his Rover, of sorts. My first thought reading this is that it is clutch, and not box (complimented by the fact new linkages and a new box failed to solve it).

I googled and googled and googled when Berger's car was playing up as we rebuilt the gearbox, the linkage and it had a new clutch and it still bloody did it - but when stone cold it was absolutely fine.

At the end of muchos googleage I found this really helpful self diagnosis from a BMW product recall on E36 BMWs.

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A transmission which is difficult to shift (especially into first gear) is primarily a clutch related problem and only in isolated cases a failure in the transmission itself. The following diagnostic tips will assist in troubleshooting a clutch, gear shift linkage or transmission problem :

IMPORTANT :

Engage the parking brake and assure that no people or objects are in the vehicle's path.

1) Run the engine at idle speed.
2) Press the clutch pedal to the floor.
3) From the neutral stick shift position engage first gear.

If first gear is difficult to engage, hold the stick shift at the resistance point (approximately half of the total stick shift travel) with constant force. Then switch the ignition off with the other hand.

Diagnosis 1:

If first gear now engages completely, there is a problem in the clutch system.

Example : The stick shift moves to the end position without any additional pressure applied.

Explanation:Because the clutch does not uncouple completely, a residual torque is transmitted to the transmission input shaft when the engine is running. This inhibits the release and meshing of the sliding sleeve, in the transmission, at the end of the synchronization process. Turning the engine offrelieves the input shaft of this torque thus simulating a completely uncoupled clutch.

Possible causes for a clutch problem as per Diagnosis 1 above :

A) Input shaft taper splines not lubricated properly / grease dried out.
B ) Clutch disc difficult to move on transmission input shaft.
C) Clutch disc wobble.
D) Air in the hydraulic system of clutch mechanism.
E) Release bearing defective or difficult to move on the guide sleeve.
F) Clutch disc or pressure plate broken / worn out.



Diagnosis 2:

If the stick shift remains at the resistance point, there is a problem in the external gear shift linkage or in the transmission.

Possible causes :
A) External gearshift linkage binding (shift rod joints stiff).
B ) Stick shift bellows boot incorrectly installed (positioned too high or too low on the stick shift lever).
C) Sound deadening between the outer gear shift linkage and the body incorrectly installed and/or distorted.

Possible causes inside of the transmission:

A) Faulty synchronization.
Internal gear shift linkage binding.
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In Bergers situation, the box was f*cked - it had a bent selector inside the box, gay. Since you already said above that your solution in emergencies at green lights is to hold it against first, kill the engine, and it slots in - you have a clutch problem for sure.

You have a new clutch (was the release bearing new?), a new cable, and you've replaced the fork bearings as I understand it, but I still feel that the fork is not working correctly. It is a push clutch I assume? I've only seen it on one occurance where the fork was bent, and i've seen another with a bent clutch pedal itself. Both were very bizarre circumstances though.


Nice - bent one on the right obviously.

Taking the above list and looking at it logically:
A) Input shaft taper splines not lubricated properly / grease dried out - I presume you put a dab of moly grease on the input shaft splines before placing the box on?
B ) Clutch disc difficult to move on transmission input shaft. - Pretty much same as above
C) Clutch disc wobble. - would hope not, as you've fitted a new clutch and I presume adhered to the correct pressure plate torques and tightening pattern - and that the clutch is aligned properly.
D) Air in the hydraulic system of clutch mechanism. - n/a in this case
E) Release bearing defective or difficult to move on the guide sleeve. - Was this new with your kit? I see it on P2.
F) Clutch disc or pressure plate broken / worn out. - n/a, new clutch

So to me, it's a misbehaving fork either cause it's f*cked or your cable is snagging somewhere (or indeed where the cable reaches the fork, the steady is flexing - the cable anchor point), or your friction plate is sticking on the splines of the input shaft. The latter also explains why you appear to encounter clutch crawl when you start with it held in first in emergencies.

Apologies if the above is not applicable, or not helpful - i'm not familiar with the GTi6 clutch set-up. It would be useful to see a picture of the fork your cable actuates within the bellhousing, i'm off for a searchy. I'm by no means an expert on Peugeots, so tear this apart if you feel like it.

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I'm Si btw

Night Blue VW Golf GTD
Bianca LBSC Rallye - Track/Road Slag Project Thread
Sparkling Silver Mini Cooper D - Super Dooper - (The other half's wheels)

Thanks for that tvrfan.

Yes i've changed the fork (with the new gearbox which was guaranteed to be fully working). And all fork bearings which were correctly greased.

Just had a quick read through and the gearbox/clutch feels fine 80% of the time (dispelling the above diagnosis), and it will either start playing up when in heavy traffic where your constantly using the clutch to pull off etc, or when your driving it hard.

The only milisecond warning you get is the clutch pedal/biting point dropping right down to the floor.

If i'm driving hard, say i'm in 3rd and leave it in 3rd whilst at 4k revs for a minute and then floor it to change into 4th - it won't go into 4th, only after rolling a hundred meters or so it will go in.

When it starts playing up, i'm usually stationary - either after a blast in the car and i've slowed down for traffic or as above i've been in heavy rolling traffic for a while. And when this happens i cannot select any gears. If i try put the car in gear (with the clutch down and car running) it won't go in, but you can feel as your say pushing it into first, you can feel the car trying to move forward. It's as if the clutch has essentially gone?

If you turn the engine off, put it in gear it goes in fine, however when you turn the car back on (with clutch down and in gear) the car will try and move (so you have to brake) which subsequently stalls the car.

It won't do it when cold (well i can't rememeber) - but thats because i never drive it hard when cold.

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Team Ducati 748
2003 Subaru Impreza STi

Thanks again Si.

Yep, it will go in fine if driven sedately. As will all gears.

As you said it's got to be a heat related problem, changed everything logical. The clutch that was on the car when i bought it was only 5k old - and when removed it almost had as much meat on as the new one. See below:


Also old vs new friction plates

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Team Ducati 748
2003 Subaru Impreza STi

or theres plenty of standard ones out here that you could get for just the postage!!
ive got 1 you can have for the postage.

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andrew315rawson@live.co.uk
Moonstone phase 7 gti6
My Project thread: http://www.306gti6.com/forum/showthread.php?id=119992&page=1

wil, can we have a list of things you've changed on the car, in a simpole list format??

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Going through the gates of Hell Backwards, in a ball of flames!

I'll, save you a place!!