displaying posts 26 to 44 of 44

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Author Subject: Race car's engine issues
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

Posts: 25,839

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Post #26
are you slackening the bolts to allow the pulleys to rotate as you tension the belt?

I have a pair of old valve stems to use as locking pins.

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Posted 3rd Jul 2017 at 10:18
demondriverdan

Seasoned Pro

Location: Londinium

Registered: 29 Nov 2010

Posts: 2,665

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Post #27
Slacken pulley bolts so they move a bit, put belt on, tension belt, tighten pulley bolts, turn engine 2 revolutions, then check timing and it doesn't line up

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Rallye Race Car
Posted 3rd Jul 2017 at 10:42
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

Posts: 25,839

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Post #28
do you use a holding tool on the cam pulleys?

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Posted 3rd Jul 2017 at 10:58
demondriverdan

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Post #29
No. How does that tool work? Where do you put the prongs?

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Rallye Race Car
Posted 3rd Jul 2017 at 12:29
fatlapit

Seasoned Pro

Location: STOCKSFIELD

Registered: 02 Nov 2010

Posts: 3,040

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Post #30
in the pulley arms

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Posted 3rd Jul 2017 at 12:36
demondriverdan

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Location: Londinium

Registered: 29 Nov 2010

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Post #31
Ohhh, I see. I'll get one of those as well then assuming I can find one. There's a Laser one but apparently it's crap!

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Rallye Race Car
Posted 3rd Jul 2017 at 12:48
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

Posts: 25,839

Status: Offline

Post #32
its a laser one I use, seems to work fine tbh! its a laser one pictured.

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need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

Bring on the Trumpets.

Posted 3rd Jul 2017 at 13:24
grantpipe

Junior User

Location: golspie

Registered: 01 Dec 2014

Posts: 85

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Post #33
When I put a belt on mine was told to slacken cam pulleys and turn them hard one way then put the belt on and tension it then tighten pulleys. Sure the thread was on here. Av never had a problem.
Posted 3rd Jul 2017 at 15:40
jeffers Forum Admin

Location: Leeds

Registered: 14 Dec 2003

Posts: 3,702

Status: Offline

Post #34
demondriverdan wrote:
Had a look over some stuff today and found a few issues.

Compression was (from L-R as I look at the engine, in bar): 12 - 10.5 - 12.5 - 12 so not great!

Plugs were also not in a great state:



Finally the exhaust cam was out of time a bit. I'm going to buy a proper locking kit rather than the drill bits you see here as I tried to re-time it today but it moved again for some reason. Clearly I'm doing something wrong so will give it another shot with a proper kit.


I use M6 capheads to lock the pulleys, 20mm long iirc tighten them up to the locking tab and never have any issues with anything moving....

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Posted 3rd Jul 2017 at 20:41
miki4

Regular

Location: Cologne

Registered: 09 Nov 2015

Posts: 390

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Post #35
Yeah, you need to install a locking tool to the cam sprockets to hold them in place while slackening and tightening their bolts. If you don't do this, you put unevenly distributed stress on the cambelt which evens out (at least to some extent) as soon as you remove the locking pins resulting in the camshafts being out of time. Also, after you slackened the bolts, before putting the new belt on, turn the cam sprockets fully clockwise so there is enough room for them to turn back while tensioning the belt.

The official locking tool for the cam sprockets from Peugeot is this:


I used one of that type which worked very well:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Twin-Camshaft-Sprocket-Holding-Tool-For-Timing-Belt-/190304956565

Cheers
Posted 4th Jul 2017 at 00:34
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

Posts: 25,839

Status: Offline

Post #36
jeffers wrote:

I use M6 capheads to lock the pulleys, 20mm long iirc tighten them up to the locking tab and never have any issues with anything moving....


not ideal as the thread diameter is not a perfect 6mm and they will bite into the soft alloy of the head and not sit straight, what you need is a smooth steel pin.

regardless of that, they shouldn't be in when you tighten the bolts fully.

________________________________________

need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

Bring on the Trumpets.

Posted 4th Jul 2017 at 10:17
miki4

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Location: Cologne

Registered: 09 Nov 2015

Posts: 390

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Post #37
jeffers wrote:
I use M6 capheads to lock the pulleys, 20mm long iirc tighten them up to the locking tab and never have any issues with anything moving....


Just for clarification. With the locking pins you lock the camshaft so it doesn't move. When you loosen the sprocket bolts, the sprockets can move independantly in relation to the camshafts for some degrees so the tension on the cambelt can distribute evenly while tensioning. As soon as you tighten the sprocket bolts back up you need to hold the sprockets still too.
Posted 4th Jul 2017 at 14:15
demondriverdan

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Location: Londinium

Registered: 29 Nov 2010

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Post #38
Yup, I know to not have the locking pins in place while tightening or you risk breaking the locating lug thing behind the sprocket!

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Rallye Race Car
Posted 4th Jul 2017 at 14:33
demondriverdan

Seasoned Pro

Location: Londinium

Registered: 29 Nov 2010

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Post #39
Bit of an update. I re-timed the engine at the weekend which was much easier with the new tools! I'm chasing up with Omex about a throttle position sensor as I could have a faulty one. Seeing as they last emailed me 12 days ago and have just said they'll "get back to me shortly", I'm not exactly happy with them! I know Chris has had some issues with them recently as well.

The other thing I've noticed recently is the cold map idle is lower than it should be. It was mapped to be 1500rpm on cold map dropping to 1250rpm on the normal map whereas it's now idling at 1300rpm on start up and slowly rising to 1400rpm, which is odd.

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Rallye Race Car
Posted 17th Jul 2017 at 15:57
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

Posts: 25,839

Status: Offline

Post #40
shouldn't need to idle like that with a standard engine, even my 2.2 doesn't!

iffy tps and any slight vac leak or mixture variance to when it was mapped can/will do that though.

________________________________________

need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

Bring on the Trumpets.

Posted 17th Jul 2017 at 16:31
demondriverdan

Seasoned Pro

Location: Londinium

Registered: 29 Nov 2010

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Post #41
We didn't spend much time on idle mapping as it doesn't make a big difference on the race car. I'd rather the time be spent mapping it at the rev range that's useful than idling!

TPS I'm hoping to replace and vac leak is certainly possible. I was planning on replacing all the pipework for the vac stuff anyway so will make that a priority.

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Rallye Race Car
Posted 17th Jul 2017 at 17:32
Day666

Seasoned Pro

Location: Bristol

Registered: 20 Apr 2013

Posts: 5,214

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Post #42
Good Luck Dan Thumbs up
Posted 17th Jul 2017 at 19:22
fatlapit

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Location: STOCKSFIELD

Registered: 02 Nov 2010

Posts: 3,040

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Post #43
Bloody omex are the bain of my life. Buggers cost me a fortune after another failure

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Posted 17th Jul 2017 at 22:05
demondriverdan

Seasoned Pro

Location: Londinium

Registered: 29 Nov 2010

Posts: 2,665

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Post #44
More of an update. I changed the TPS and have re-done the vac pipes so it goes straight from the vac pump to the servo with a small cap over the inlet manifold take off, none of that has made a difference. It's still idling lower than it should be when cold and slowly climbing up.

The other thing I've noticed is a weird "tink"-ing noise from the engine, you can hear it here at the beginning of the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ra01b5tfR5k

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Rallye Race Car
Posted 1st Aug 2017 at 10:03

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