Oil hotter with aluminium rad - Engines Forum - Peugeot 306 GTi-6 & Rallye Owners Club

displaying posts 1 to 25 of 33

Pages (2): [1] 2

Author

Subject: Oil hotter with aluminium rad

mekapaedia

Newbie

Location: Vigo

Registered: 19 Jul 2016

Posts: 19

Status: Offline

Post #1

Hi guys, long time listener first time caller. I've had some issues with my GTI-6's cooling system and the local dealership here replaced my old and poorly working stock rad with an aluminium one from a local company here in Vigo. Usefully, water temps do seem to be lower but when pushing on the oil temp gets much much higher, into the 120s whereas before they stubbornly stayed around 90. Any ideas?

The rad itself seems to be on the crap side, I had a plastic hose connector break within the first 4 days and the replacement seems to leak (at least, it hisses) where the top of the plastic overflow tank meets the body...

Posted 13th Jun 2017 at 09:25

Profile

welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

Posts: 25,838

Status: Offline

Post #2

if its leaking take it back.

how hard are you driving to get 120?!

________________________________________

need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

Bring on the Trumpets.

Posted 13th Jun 2017 at 11:03

Profile

mekapaedia

Newbie

Location: Vigo

Registered: 19 Jul 2016

Posts: 19

Status: Offline

Post #3

Not that hard - as I said before it was around 90 (maybe 100 at times?). Driving habits haven't changed.

Posted 13th Jun 2017 at 11:12

Profile

miki4

Regular

Location: Cologne

Registered: 09 Nov 2015

Posts: 390

Status: Offline

Post #4

Check if the oil/water heat exchanger is connected to the cooling system. Could be they used a rad for another 306 without the respective port.

I'm only getting to 120 after some minutes of full chat on the Autobahn. Big grin

Posted 13th Jun 2017 at 14:05

Profile

mekapaedia

Newbie

Location: Vigo

Registered: 19 Jul 2016

Posts: 19

Status: Offline

Post #5

Which one is that? Passenger side at the bottom?

EDIT: to be specific, LHD passenger side

Posted 13th Jun 2017 at 14:41

Profile

miki4

Regular

Location: Cologne

Registered: 09 Nov 2015

Posts: 390

Status: Offline

Post #6

Yes, it sits right behind the oil filter. You can see it in this pic:

Posted 13th Jun 2017 at 14:50

Profile

mekapaedia

Newbie

Location: Vigo

Registered: 19 Jul 2016

Posts: 19

Status: Offline

Post #7

Checked... it's all connected up. Thinking of just biting the bullet and installing a mocal cooler, aiming to visit the Nürburgring in August and that's about the last place you'd want an issue.

Posted 13th Jun 2017 at 15:56

Profile

welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

Posts: 25,838

Status: Offline

Post #8

you shouldn't need an oil cooler on a standard car for just a ring lap, its the GP track which is hard on cars.

I would get a nissens or Ordonez rad ordered.

________________________________________

need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

Bring on the Trumpets.

Posted 13th Jun 2017 at 16:47

Profile

mekapaedia

Newbie

Location: Vigo

Registered: 19 Jul 2016

Posts: 19

Status: Offline

Post #9

Is the Valeo any good? I am sourcing the rad fans from a guy near here (because they don't work either...) and he is parting out his 6, says his Valeo is decent and available.'

EDIT: If the water temps are fine but the oil is not, how would better radiator make a difference?

Posted 13th Jun 2017 at 16:55

Profile

deeturbo

Regular

Location: Leighton Buzzard

Registered: 22 Feb 2003

Posts: 283

Status: Offline

Post #10

I'm thinking the outlet to the oil heat exchanger might be blocked.

I've seen some rads with the outlet but sealed on the inside, if that make sense?

Posted 13th Jun 2017 at 19:04

Profile

mekapaedia

Newbie

Location: Vigo

Registered: 19 Jul 2016

Posts: 19

Status: Offline

Post #11

Well on the last rad when that specific fitting broke it definitely emptied all the coolant out, should I check if the hose to the exchanger seems to have liquid in it?

Btw... when the engine revs I can hear something like air being compressed or pushed out somewhere, is it just the overflow tube on the rad? A little coolant comes out sometimes but I assume that's by design.

Posted 13th Jun 2017 at 19:22

Profile

Cjwatson27

Seasoned Pro

Location: Oxford

Registered: 17 Sep 2013

Posts: 1,968

Status: Offline

Post #12

Can you get warm air out of the heater ?

________________________________________

Old pugs don't die they just get faster

Posted 13th Jun 2017 at 20:33

Profile

mekapaedia

Newbie

Location: Vigo

Registered: 19 Jul 2016

Posts: 19

Status: Offline

Post #13

Yep, no issues there.

Posted 13th Jun 2017 at 21:41

Profile

prism7guy

Seasoned Pro

Location: DoncastAAAAARGH

Registered: 13 Jan 2008

Posts: 4,640

Status: Offline

Post #14

mekapaedia wrote:

Checked... it's all connected up. Thinking of just biting the bullet and installing a mocal cooler, aiming to visit the Nürburgring in August and that's about the last place you'd want an issue.

Not a bad shout, the oil temps do get pretty high on track if you don't have a proper cooler on them from personal experience, but I guess a lot of that depends on how much abuse you give the car.

________________________________________

Goldie the track car.

Posted 14th Jun 2017 at 00:46

Profile

mekapaedia

Newbie

Location: Vigo

Registered: 19 Jul 2016

Posts: 19

Status: Offline

Post #15

Went to the official dealer today to get them to take a look... to me, the hose from the rad to the heat exchanger seem to lack pressure but they said it was all normal. They told me that with 90 degree water temp 120 oil is pretty normal... and that it's largely down to my crapped out radiator fans. Bit suspicious of that but we'll see.

Posted 14th Jun 2017 at 13:22

Profile

jeffers Forum Admin

Location: Leeds

Registered: 14 Dec 2003

Posts: 3,702

Status: Offline

Post #16

mekapaedia wrote:

They're talking shizen, 120 oil temp is getting close to the oils breaking down point. I'd look more closely at the oil/water heat exchanger, also random one but the oil temperature transmitter is worth checking, just to rule it out?

________________________________________

Team Running Engine again!
Team Negative Camber!
My Budget track engine build thread!
Now appearing at a Trackday near you!! Hyper

Posted 14th Jun 2017 at 14:03

Profile

mocinim

Seasoned Pro

Location: The Darkside of bedford :)

Registered: 09 Jan 2015

Posts: 2,307

Status: Offline

Post #17

Does it smell feel really hot or are you just going on the gauge??

________________________________________

BLACK RALLYE - phoenix
WHITE RALLYE - valliant

http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com/

https://www.gov.uk/check-mot-history

Posted 14th Jun 2017 at 14:30

Profile

fatlapit

Seasoned Pro

Location: STOCKSFIELD

Registered: 02 Nov 2010

Posts: 3,040

Status: Offline

Post #18

120 degrees the oil will be useless unless its decent oil.

I fing the gauges on the 6 fairly accurate tbh

________________________________________

Posted 14th Jun 2017 at 14:58

Profile

mekapaedia

Newbie

Location: Vigo

Registered: 19 Jul 2016

Posts: 19

Status: Offline

Post #19

Just based on the gauge. Engine gets hot a lot because it's hot here and the fans don't work so well... but I don't smell oil fumes or in fact any bad smell.

Oil temp gauge seems really logical in its movements, doesn't move suddenly and warms up with the engine... how would I diagnose a bad sensor if the gauge seems okay?

I'm thinking of swapping this rad for a nissens... just don't really want to spend the 110 euro.

Posted 14th Jun 2017 at 15:00

Profile

welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

Posts: 25,838

Status: Offline

Post #20

its worth it an also sounds like yours is faulty so should go back anyway.

________________________________________

need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

Bring on the Trumpets.

Posted 14th Jun 2017 at 15:08

Profile

miki4

Regular

Location: Cologne

Registered: 09 Nov 2015

Posts: 390

Status: Offline

Post #21

It's likely that the new rad is s**te because the oil temperature was normal before the repair. Probably there is not enough flow through the oil heat exchanger. Or it got blocked during the repair.

However, a Nissens rad is worth the money.

Posted 14th Jun 2017 at 16:40

Profile

3rd time lucky

Seasoned Pro

Location: maidstone

Registered: 23 Apr 2007

Posts: 1,879

Status: Offline

Post #22

I've heard different coolants mixed can block some waterways in the engine. I would get that Valeo rad and coolant flush it. Failing that, nissens rad ftw. And oil cooler if you plan to hoon it quite a bit as they do get rather hot quickly. Although as said, shouldn't be necessary on a standard engine unless doing trackdays.

________________________________________

DIABLO GTI-6 - Legend - NILE GTI-6 - Sold
CHERRY GTI-6 P1 SUPERCHARGED - Broken up
BLACK RALLYE - Sold
205 Dturbo xud9 work horse - Dead
CHERRY RALLYE - new toy

Posted 14th Jun 2017 at 20:55

Profile

adam b

Seasoned Pro

Location: The Nam

Registered: 24 Jan 2006

Posts: 12,828

Status: Offline

Post #23

1. Nissens rad
2. Good proper coolant, flush it first and bleed it correctly
3. Oil cooler with a thermostat take off, invest it's worth it
4. Good fully synthetic oil

120 oil temp is feck all. I get worried above 140... But then the oil I use works to over 150

________________________________________

Nothing to see here

Posted 14th Jun 2017 at 22:21

Profile

mekapaedia

Newbie

Location: Vigo

Registered: 19 Jul 2016

Posts: 19

Status: Offline

Post #24

What would be considered "proper" coolant?

And what would be a good oil choice? I was thinking of getting "Fuchs Titan Race Pro S 10W-50" put in.

Posted 15th Jun 2017 at 10:15

Profile

ale624

Regular

Location: bristol

Registered: 02 May 2016

Posts: 173

Status: Offline

Post #25

Hahaha, f**king stealerships man. 120 is normal, got to be having a laugh!
if everything was fine before the rad swap, then it has to be the new rad.

coolant is the pink kind.

for Oil i use Full synthetic 5w40, although 10w50 should be perfectly fine.

never seen my oil gauge even think about going over 95, even while giving it some beans.
Coolant can creep up a bit, especially while sitting in traffic, but never seen my oil gauge go over 90 while just around town.

Normally it hits 90 and stays there.

Posted 15th Jun 2017 at 13:50

Profile

Pages (2): [1] 2

All times are GMT. The time is now 17:19

Please Note: The views and opinions found herein are those of individuals, and not of The Peugeot 306 GTi-6 & Rallye Owners Club or any individuals involved.
No responsibility is taken or assumed for any comments or statements made on, or in relation to, this website. Please see our updated privacy policy.