They look a bit pricey in my opinion. Pad and disc choice is a personal preference but considering how little of the braking is done by the rear brakes I don't think you need vented discs. I would get a set of Pagid discs and maybe Pagid or Mintex pads. I run Pagid discs and Mintex M1144s on the race car with no real issues. I'm also not a fan of EBC but that's because I just don't like the feel of them, on the front at least.

In terms of changing the pads and discs it's not too tricky. The pads are held in place by a metal bar at the bottom of them. You basically need to hammer the bar out, wind piston in, put new pads in, and hammer the bar back in again. From memory, I do:

1) Remove wheel (obviously )
2) If you have them, remove the grub screws securing the disc to the hub. If they haven't been undone in a while they could be a bas**rd to get out. I do this early in the process so if you get stuck you've not wasted time.
3) Remove the pin that holds the pad securing bar in place
4) Hammer out the bar from the inside (I tried the other way, it fouls on the trailing arm and I didn't realise for a few minutes!)
5) Remove pads
6) Remove disc
7) Take off the brake reservoir cap to allow brake fluid to move
8) Wind in the piston so that it's flush. It turns clockwise and can be done with a proper tool or I just use a centre punch sideways
9) Put new disc in
10) Put pads in with anti-rattle pins. Make sure the slot on the pad is in a groove in the piston (makes sense when you see it). Difficult to describe how the pins fit, I can try later if I can find some photos
11) Refit bar. This can be a bit of a b**ch with lining up pads while hammering the bar in but you'll get there
12) Refit the bar securing pin
13) Refit disc grub screws (assuming they aren't buggered)
14) Refit wheel

Then you'll need to do the other side and refit the brake reservoir cap!

I'd be tempted to get another set of bars / pins like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/401069569079?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Hope that helps, I'm sure other people have other ways

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Rallye Race Car

That's great thanks allot!! I assumed you had to remove the caliper completely to get the disc off but if its just the case of removing pads, winding back a piston and undoing the grub screws doesn't sound too big a job. Should the disc have enough space to just come forward and slide out then?

When the grub screws are out can they be left out as I noticed on my front discs they do not have grub screws. All it does is line up the disc with the holes the wheel nuts screw into?

I will check the sliders then while i'm at it.

This may be a stupid question but I understand the disc dimensions for the back are 247x8, but how do you know what pads will fit, like the dimensions or are they all standard?

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98 Blaze 6 - Current

If you look me up on Facebook (Brent Law) one of the few things I have public is a wee video of me doing my rear brakes. About 12 minutes a side including looking for some tools as I'm not an 'organised worker'

Car parts for less bud £26 for both rear discs 15 ish for your pads put your reg in

Brembo

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BLACK RALLYE - phoenix
WHITE RALLYE - valliant

http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com/

https://www.gov.uk/check-mot-history