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Author Subject: 044 pump killing engine
pugheaven

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Post #76
I just don't want to buy a new one change the pulley over to then find it hasn't fixed either of my faults
Posted 22nd Mar 2015 at 00:28
bigbadbowen

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Post #77
volt meter it then ? Any thing less than 14.6 means alt is shiiiiiiite
Posted 22nd Mar 2015 at 00:33
pugheaven

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Post #78
will do!
Posted 22nd Mar 2015 at 00:35
bigbadbowen

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Post #79
Might explain wipers as well ?
Posted 22nd Mar 2015 at 00:38
pugheaven

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Post #80
maybe but I doubt it as I had the same fault with the grey car when I changed from phase 1-2/3 lol just didn't care with that car
Posted 22nd Mar 2015 at 00:40
bigbadbowen

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Post #81
My dogey 205 alt only ran out 11-12 volts and didn't light up the battery light on ignition or running
Posted 22nd Mar 2015 at 00:43
pete_rallye

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Post #82
Before you swap the alternator, download the DTASwin software and connect to the ecu. You will be able to see a trace of battery voltage. You could also wire in the lambda to get a trace from that. Might be worth checking the map is the same as it was before?

Also try revving it a touch when you connect the hp pump, if it is a fuel/air mix problem then the more air you can get into it the better! Has the throttle pot been moved at all? Be worth checking that's still set up correctly in the ecu also.

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Posted 22nd Mar 2015 at 07:29
Niall

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Post #83
bigbadbowen wrote:
volt meter it then ? Any thing less than 14.6 means alt is shiiiiiiite


Not quite true I'm afraid. a 306 alternator is not a smart charging alternator so will always put out a fixed voltage of about 14.4 (what it should be) to probably a maximum of 14.6 however due to other bits in the circuit having quite a significant power draw (such as a discharged battery), if you just put your meter across the battery terminals with it running you could see as low as 12.5-13v. Doesn't mean its had it!
Posted 22nd Mar 2015 at 09:13
cully

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Post #84
alternators do go faulty and wont put on the bat light i had one recently on a 206

check it with a volt meter on the battery terminals
12.2-12.5v would be a good charged battery with the car off
anywhere above 13.8v would be good charging with the engine running
Posted 22nd Mar 2015 at 09:50
pugheaven

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Post #85
I'm pretty crap when it comes to electrics! With the car off the battery was a reading 12.75v and the same once running!

Its a pain as to get the alternator out iv got to remove the charger which means taking the front end off with rad and intercooler Sad
Posted 22nd Mar 2015 at 09:57
bigbadbowen

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Post #86
Run the car with everything on ? Lights heater rear window de mister etc ? Then check voltage ? I'm sure my 6 runs 14v when running I'll go check ?
Posted 22nd Mar 2015 at 10:03
bigbadbowen

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Post #87
You have plugged the dash light in on the alt ?
Posted 22nd Mar 2015 at 10:04
pugheaven

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Post #88
Is it the little wire on its own on the alternator?? If so yes! The engine sounds time a bag of nails so really don't want to start it again
Posted 22nd Mar 2015 at 10:24
pugheaven

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Post #89
To illuminate the alternator being the reason the battery light doesn't come on could I just extant that one wire to another cars alternator or just a battery??
Posted 22nd Mar 2015 at 12:40
rich_w

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Post #90
Olli,

I think the issue could well be electrical - I'm fairly sure your plumbing is correct.

I think the issue isn't over fuelling when the pump comes on, it died too quickly to be that - for example when I was holding it at a fast idle, we connected the Bosch pump and it died immediately. If the Bosch pump was causing it to over fuel, it would cough and splutter then die - it wouldn't be so sudden.

Best thing to do is to establish whether the alternator is working or not - and also I don't know if the race battery is up to the job, as regardless of what the alternator is doing, it should still start. All of the wiring needs to be checked, particularly earthing. When I get back I'll do some checking on SWin to see what's happening.

Having said that, I'm really puzzled as to why it's running with only the in tank pump. It shouldn't do this. At least the cars fitted with my swirl pot don't run without the Bosch - and I don't see why yours would be any different.

In the mean time, try and avoid running it. You at least shouldn't run it until the wide band is working. The DTA is configured to trim fuel based on the 0-5v input from the wide band, so this is pretty important.

If you can be patient, maybe wait until I'm back - first thing is to diagnose with SWin - this may well identify the issue.


Rich

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Posted 22nd Mar 2015 at 13:33
bigbadbowen

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Post #91
pugheaven wrote:
To illuminate the alternator being the reason the battery light doesn't come on could I just extant that one wire to another cars alternator or just a battery??


I don't think so bud it's all part of a circuit ?
Posted 22nd Mar 2015 at 13:40
pugheaven

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Post #92
Thanks Rich, I think it's best I leave it as I dont have a clue with electrics! Iv got other things to get on with on the car so not that a big deal atm, just hope I dont have to move out before we get the car running!

Have fun on holiday bud and I'll see you when your back Thumbs up

Thanks for your help the other day it was appreciated Smile
Posted 22nd Mar 2015 at 13:49
rallyeash

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Post #93
Twangy wrote:
fuel line should return to swirl pot and as soon as that's full system is primed ,no reason then to return to main tank



Yes the tank will explode! You need a return to swirl and a return to tank from swirl because it's unvented.

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Posted 23rd Mar 2015 at 10:21
welshpug!

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Post #94
rich_w wrote:
Having said that, I'm really puzzled as to why it's running with only the in tank pump. It shouldn't do this.


I can't see why ever not if it can provide enough flow and pump 5 bar (like feck would I want fuel running around my car at 5 bar though!)

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Posted 23rd Mar 2015 at 10:42
rich_w

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Post #95
Because the in tank pump should only generate a negligible fuel pressure at the rail - it's only filling the swirl pot - so the fuel pressure achieved would be equal to the back pressure from the swirl pot to the tank. This should be minimal - only a few PSI.

Olli needs to check for back pressure on the return from the swirl pot to the tank, and rail return to swirl pot. Something isn't right - I could rev it up on the in tank pump only too - it want as if it was just idling.

5 BAR is necessary to get enough fuel in there, and get the best possible atomisation. Some OEM performance cars run this sort of fuel pressure - such as M3.

Fuel pressure will hit nearly 7 BAR at peak boost Wink

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rich@lynxpowerengineering.co.uk
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Posted 23rd Mar 2015 at 11:03
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

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Post #96
fair enough.

my thinking with the std pump is that it has enough flow and pressure to fill the pot and push on jnto the rail, as theres no restriction.

that said, the pot has a return to the tank, so if that is flowing ok then there shouldn't be any rail pressure.

got my head around it now Big grin

________________________________________

need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

Bring on the Trumpets.

Posted 23rd Mar 2015 at 12:33
rich_w

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Post #97
Yeah it doesn't make sense does it... will have to look into it when I get back.

Other HBs won't start with only the in tank pump - they try to catch bit won't run.

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rich@lynxpowerengineering.co.uk
07732 822546

Posted 23rd Mar 2015 at 12:53
bigbadbowen

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Post #98
Swirl pot got hosed on incorrectly me thinks
Posted 23rd Mar 2015 at 13:02
welshpug!

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Post #99
doesnt matter really which way the hoses are connected, once its full of fuel the feed and return can come from anywhere, though obviously you need the engine feed from the lowest point and tank return from the top.

________________________________________

need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

Bring on the Trumpets.

Posted 23rd Mar 2015 at 13:04
pugheaven

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Post #100
Maybe the return to tank is blocked but I'm sure me and rich checked that and it was fine!
Iv just order a AN6 1/8npt take off and fuel pressure gauge so should be able to see what's going on fuel wise when Rich gets back
Posted 23rd Mar 2015 at 14:23

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