displaying posts 1 to 19 of 19

Author Subject: Rear brake pipes
Sonnyp

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Location: Canvey island

Registered: 16 Apr 2014

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Post #1
Can you do away with the copper rear brake lines that go to the calliper with some custom braided ones? I've got braided rear lines to replace the flexie ones with the spring around it.
Posted 24th Jan 2015 at 21:35
Twangy

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Location: heswall

Registered: 27 Jun 2014

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Post #2
you can do the whole car with braided ones if you like

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Posted 24th Jan 2015 at 22:57
Rich E Forum Admin

Location: Hertfordshire

Registered: 27 Apr 2005

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Post #3
Yeah you could, but I don't see why you'd need / want to...

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Posted 24th Jan 2015 at 23:24
Sonnyp

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Post #4
Only asking as my rear lines are a bit tatty and I'm changing my beam over soon to a new one. Rather not have to make some new metal ones up
Posted 25th Jan 2015 at 11:04
dangti6

aka JKshooter

Location: Taunton, Somerset

Registered: 15 Jun 2006

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Post #5
Braided lines made up for the section you want won't be cheap. Some motorfactors will make you a copper line up with the appropriate ends for little money. You may or may not realise you can buy the steel lines in sections from Peugeot. I'm unsure on pricing but Servicebox will tell you or a phonecall to your dealer even.

I'd recommend finding someone with a flaring tool and buying a roll of copper pipe for a tenner with some fittings. You'd be surprised how easy it can be to get a decent flare WITH A DECENT TOOL.

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  • Posted 25th Jan 2015 at 11:12
    Sonnyp

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    Location: Canvey island

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    Post #6
    Got the tools and pipe at the workshop that I mess about with the car in, just wondered if people had used braided lines before for that section, just being lazy after the effort of redoing a beam ha.

    On another note I have a mechanical brake compensator on the rear it's gonna be lowered say 30- 40mm, on another thread they said to adjust it by 10mm, but is it as easy as just shortening the spring or do they mean the whole thing ie. the metal rod holding it in place?
    Posted 25th Jan 2015 at 22:04
    burnout21

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    Location: Edge of the Pass

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    Post #7
    My lines are knackered on the joins that connect to the beam. Rather than replacing the whole lines, how easy would it be to just replace the lines after the fuel tank? Not got the tools required.
    Posted 29th Apr 2015 at 12:37
    welshpug!

    Capt Pedantic

    Location: Bigend, Wales.

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    Post #8
    easy enough, depends which line you mean, from front to load compensator, or compensator to flexi brackets?

    youll need some tools regardless, or pay someone.

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    Posted 29th Apr 2015 at 12:42
    burnout21

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    Post #9
    Its the joint that goes through the beam brackets (that the beam mounts to chassis) top part of Flex pipe. (If that makes sense) Both sides. Don't mind paying someone, as not got time to do all piping myself. Problem is car is not moveable. Pipes are leaking as the nuts have corroded that bad.
    Posted 29th Apr 2015 at 13:52
    gnrlee Forum Admin

    Location: Leeds

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    Post #10
    a genuine pipe from pug is silly money for what it is!
    I just bought a tool and did my own but if this is the route you go down make sure you get a tool that will flair a steel line!

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    Posted 29th Apr 2015 at 14:01
    welshpug!

    Capt Pedantic

    Location: Bigend, Wales.

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    Post #11
    gnrlee wrote:
    a genuine pipe from pug is silly money for what it is!
    I just bought a tool and did my own but if this is the route you go down make sure you get a tool that will flair a steel line!


    reeeallllyyyy?


    did you check?


    4803E7 BRAKE HOSE 12.68 GBP

    4803G3 BRAKE HOSE 1.73 GBP


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    need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

    Bring on the Trumpets.

    Posted 29th Apr 2015 at 15:50
    gnrlee Forum Admin

    Location: Leeds

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    Post #12
    £1.73 for a hose,... from peugeot???

    Shock Cheeky sod said i had to buy pretty much the whole rear of the car! LOL
    Well it's done now!

    ok for your next trick,... is to be able to unscrew the break line nut without destroying it because their made of Cheese!

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    Posted 29th Apr 2015 at 16:23
    welshpug!

    Capt Pedantic

    Location: Bigend, Wales.

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    Post #13
    brake, not break Wink

    ________________________________________

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    Bring on the Trumpets.

    Posted 29th Apr 2015 at 17:40
    dangti6

    aka JKshooter

    Location: Taunton, Somerset

    Registered: 15 Jun 2006

    Posts: 10,305

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    Post #14
    gnrlee wrote:
    ok for your next trick,... is to be able to unscrew the break line nut without destroying it because their made of Cheese!


    Don't use a spanner - use the proper tool.

    Or just snip the line you are replacing and get a 6 sided socket on it Thumbs up

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  • Posted 29th Apr 2015 at 18:22
    rikky 🦔

    Location: cheshire

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    Post #15
    proper brake pipe spanners are a must with pretty much anything

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    Posted 29th Apr 2015 at 18:24
    burnout21

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    Post #16
    Nope, the but is Fubard, rounded off like a blob of Lard.
    Annoying, why I need to sort it.
    Posted 29th Apr 2015 at 18:25
    mocinim

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    Post #17
    Hi guys
    Is Copper Nickel, Kunifer Brake Pipe better than standard pipe need to replace mine just ripped of my nipple Sad

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    Posted 29th Aug 2015 at 21:26
    MisterGTR

    Senior User

    Location: Glasgow

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    Post #18
    rikky wrote:
    proper brake pipe spanners are a must with pretty much anything


    Can you link to what you mean. flared spanners?

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    Posted 30th Aug 2015 at 15:58
    RetroPug

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    Location: Leicestershire

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    Post #19
    mocinim wrote:
    Hi guys
    Is Copper Nickel, Kunifer Brake Pipe better than standard pipe need to replace mine just ripped of my nipple Sad


    Kunifer is supposed to be a bit better but copper is absolutely fine and easy to work with.

    I'd never flared in my life, watch a quick youtube video on it and I did all the lines to rear calipers plus repaired some sections of front with a cheap tool.

    I did borrow a decent one for the steel lines though.

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    Posted 30th Aug 2015 at 16:03

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