|
Author | Subject: Red Rallye S529 OAN |
bigbadbowen
Seasoned Pro Location: Winchester Registered: 21 Nov 2003 Posts: 13,753 Status: Offline |
Post #76
Never taken one off to be honest but I know if your going to all the effort to de rust the underside the last thing you want is to miss some and it start to come back ? Rust is a proper fecker |
Posted 28th Feb 2015 at 21:45
|
Ben_W
Formerly gpm Location: Lutterworth Registered: 01 Sep 2007 Posts: 2,941 Status: Offline |
Post #77
Yeah, that's true.Its just the area its in, proper pain in the arse to try and get to.... I'll try and get the bump stops off tomorrow ________________________________________ Cherry Red Rallye .... On going OEM spec restoChina Blue GTi6 .... Weekend toy Black 208 GTi .... Wife's car now Silver BMW 550i.... The executive missile |
Posted 28th Feb 2015 at 22:16
|
dangti6
aka JKshooter Location: Taunton, Somerset Registered: 15 Jun 2006 Posts: 10,305 Status: Offline |
Post #78
Grip and twist the bump stops and they'll come out. Go easy on the M8 setscrew though. It shouldn't be too bad if the bump stops are still there to keep them away from the elements, but if you throw a windy gun at them you may well shear them off.________________________________________ |
Posted 28th Feb 2015 at 22:32
|
bigbadbowen
Seasoned Pro Location: Winchester Registered: 21 Nov 2003 Posts: 13,753 Status: Offline |
Post #79
Old pugs love a sheared bolt or stud! I live for a s**tty bolt thread or s**te stud |
Posted 1st Mar 2015 at 01:56
|
Puggitt
Regular Location: New Zealand Registered: 07 May 2012 Posts: 293 Status: Offline |
Post #80
I feel sorry for you guys, pugs here only rust in the gutter seal above the doors from stagnant water. Killer here is not keeping the rust inhibition of the coolant system up to scratch. But well done one the level of effort in this mate! |
Posted 1st Mar 2015 at 06:00
|
RetroPug
Seasoned Pro Location: Leicestershire Registered: 15 Jan 2013 Posts: 2,473 Status: Offline |
Post #81
Puggitt wrote: I feel sorry for you guys, pugs here only rust in the gutter seal above the doors from stagnant water. Killer here is not keeping the rust inhibition of the coolant system up to scratch. But well done one the level of effort in this mate! If I drive mine in winter there are white streaks all over the car and in the engine bay from the salt on the roads. The underside gets a salt bath for half a year every year if driven daily. This will be absolutely lovely when done. You're not a million miles from where I work so I might have to take you up on your offer to come and have a look! ________________________________________ 61k miles Ph.1 Diablo '6 Project Thread |
Posted 1st Mar 2015 at 07:22
|
Ben_W
Formerly gpm Location: Lutterworth Registered: 01 Sep 2007 Posts: 2,941 Status: Offline |
Post #82
No worries fella. Come have a look any time________________________________________ Cherry Red Rallye .... On going OEM spec restoChina Blue GTi6 .... Weekend toy Black 208 GTi .... Wife's car now Silver BMW 550i.... The executive missile |
Posted 1st Mar 2015 at 09:57
|
Niall
Seasoned Pro Location: Epsom Registered: 06 Jun 2012 Posts: 1,941 Status: Offline |
Post #87
This is awesome work! I really want to do mine this winter. Like yours (and most!), mine had been jacked in the wrong place. Ive done temp repair of taking back all the rust and sealing it but want to get the whole underside done properly. |
Posted 2nd Mar 2015 at 17:01
|
rallyestyle
Seasoned Pro Location: London Registered: 23 Jul 2003 Posts: 14,990 Status: Offline |
Post #89
Good work Will be minty minty by the time you are done ________________________________________ Just Drive It |
Posted 2nd Mar 2015 at 20:39
|
scotzman
Seasoned Pro Location: Dundee Registered: 24 Jun 2011 Posts: 1,408 Status: Offline |
Post #90
Nice work Yep that stuff is heavy, I think its 90%+ zinc when dry. ________________________________________ '90 1.6 205 GTi, '98 306 GTi-6 |
Posted 2nd Mar 2015 at 20:43
|
Ben_W
Formerly gpm Location: Lutterworth Registered: 01 Sep 2007 Posts: 2,941 Status: Offline |
Post #91
rallyestyle wrote: Good work Will be minty minty by the time you are done T'is the general idea...!! I only intend on coming here once! ________________________________________ Cherry Red Rallye .... On going OEM spec restoChina Blue GTi6 .... Weekend toy Black 208 GTi .... Wife's car now Silver BMW 550i.... The executive missile |
Posted 2nd Mar 2015 at 21:14
|
mik
Seasoned Pro Location: Kent Registered: 17 Feb 2011 Posts: 2,100 Status: Offline |
Post #92
Great work. I haven't removed the bump stop cups yet - Coskev told me you can still buy them new. I cleaned the cups out and blew wax up behind to slow the rust down until I can deal with it properly. Cleaning out that rectangular part behind the bump stop was very difficult as it is too deep to get at easily with all the tools. It is perfectly positioned for the rear wheels to spray salty road grit up in there too. The dremel with the small stainless brushes helped in the corners though. I used a combination of brush-on and spray can Electrox - the spray is good to get in areas you can see but are difficult to get at with a brush. Mis-jacking is a bête noire of mine - I had the cross-members behind the front wheel renewed and then someone (prob a tyre place) jacked the fecking car up on them and squashed them slightly - and by the time I found it there was a 50p sized patch of surface rust where the jack had scraped the etch primer/seam sealer/red paint down the the bare metal! I also had to replace a 12" piece of driver's side sill that was stoved in and had a rust hole. They can't help themselves and are attached to jacking it up on the floor like moths to a flame. That welded patch by your subframe would be a repair to improper jacking causing rust. I am now properly OCD about tw@ts damaging my months of work and leave a post-it note on the steering wheel with "jack only on subframe, axle tube and sill jacking points only - not on floor or box sections" on it. My floor was pushed up on both sides. I hammered it back down with my booted heel. I also lifted the carpet before welding, and Electroxed/red painted the scorch marks on the metal inside the car after welding. Your car shows why I need to get my beam off and fuel tank out to sort that bit out. As others have said, these cars are actually quite rust resistant, given 15-odd salty winters etc. If idiots didn't jack them up on the floor all the fecking time, there would be a lot less rust. I'm following this with interest! ________________________________________ Cherry Rallye SOLD |
Posted 2nd Mar 2015 at 22:19
|
Ben_W
Formerly gpm Location: Lutterworth Registered: 01 Sep 2007 Posts: 2,941 Status: Offline |
Post #93
Thanks Mik.Interesting technique on pushing the floor back down, I shall have to try that one!! Yeah, the fuel tank stud is a swine. I think there might be just enough on it to reattach the tank strap and get a nut on it. Need to get a new nut and give it try. Worst case, I'll cut the stud flush, drill out the hole, tap, wind in a length of threaded rod and secure with a spot weld or two. The sill on the drivers side is really annoying me. As you had to do, I think it's going to need replacing. It's rusty where the se has split open, goodness knows what it's like inside. Gonna cut a foot section out of a solid donor vehicle and go from.there I think. It's looks like mines been mis jacked on both sides, the passenger side is worse though. I also found a dent on the floor with a 10p sizes rust scab. Surface only luckily.... The tank really needs to come out. There were about half a dozen contact points between body and tank that had rubbed and turned into surface rust. I think I'll be sticking some rubber pads into the tank in those places when it goes back on. Much less issue in the beam area, other than it just blocking access. Thought it best to remove the lot and do it in one go..... Good to know bump stops are still available, will look into those.... ________________________________________ Cherry Red Rallye .... On going OEM spec restoChina Blue GTi6 .... Weekend toy Black 208 GTi .... Wife's car now Silver BMW 550i.... The executive missile |
Posted 2nd Mar 2015 at 23:02
|
af1-gti
Senior User Location: avoiding my pug Registered: 08 Nov 2010 Posts: 807 Status: Offline |
Post #95
This all looks very familiar..I hope you remembered the routing of the brake pipes. Because i sure as well didnt and if you have a diagram i would love you a bit ________________________________________ Rich E wrote: With the 306 Rallye the goal wasn't to make a purer or more focussed car. It was to make a cheaper car, and then cynically use Peugeot's motorsport heritage to make it appeal to enthusiasts. |
Posted 4th Mar 2015 at 02:22
|
Ben_W
Formerly gpm Location: Lutterworth Registered: 01 Sep 2007 Posts: 2,941 Status: Offline |
Post #96
Is it a picture of the pipe work attached to the rear beam you need?I see from another thread of yours it's to do with the compensator valve? All the pipe work associated with the rear brakes is still in place on my rear beam, complete with valve. Can get you some pics if you need ________________________________________ Cherry Red Rallye .... On going OEM spec restoChina Blue GTi6 .... Weekend toy Black 208 GTi .... Wife's car now Silver BMW 550i.... The executive missile |
Posted 4th Mar 2015 at 08:49
|
rallyestyle
Seasoned Pro Location: London Registered: 23 Jul 2003 Posts: 14,990 Status: Offline |
Post #100
3.30am!! Madman ________________________________________ Just Drive It |
Posted 7th Mar 2015 at 21:00
|
The Peugeot GTi-6 & Rallye Owners Club - ©2024 all rights reserved.
Please Note: The views and opinions found herein are those of individuals, and not of The Peugeot 306 GTi-6 & Rallye Owners Club or any individuals involved.
No responsibility is taken or assumed for any comments or statements made on, or in relation to, this website. Please see our updated privacy policy.