Recently I swapped the inlet manifold, pas pump and radiator.
I reused all sensors other than the cts and tps which I swapped for ones which worked fine on another car.
Now the car is hunting for idle, running poorly and misfiring very, very loudly at idle. It also revs very high on start up and settles if you touch the throttle
H
I can't figure out what is causing the problem. Disconnecting the battery helps a bit but then it gets worse again.

Any ideas?

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61k miles Ph.1 Diablo '6 Project Thread

New gasket. Just swapped tps and cts back with no change
my speedo does a weird judder before settling before I start the car which it didn't do before

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61k miles Ph.1 Diablo '6 Project Thread

Not deliberately.. just checked them and they are intact. Cleaned all the earths a couple of months ago as well

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61k miles Ph.1 Diablo '6 Project Thread

Speedo is juddery at the start.. gearbox earths definitely intact... Think the vss is too.. The front end is raised off the ground but that shouldn't matter

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61k miles Ph.1 Diablo '6 Project Thread

I'll try that. The icv is very, very hot. This is hunting idle and very loud banging misfire though

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61k miles Ph.1 Diablo '6 Project Thread

Tried swapping the ECU temp sensor back to the original ?

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1998 Supercharged White Rallye
1992 205 GTi6
205 Turbo 340bhp

I assume you mean the green coolant temperature sensor that feeds back to the ECU?
Yes, I swapped back, no change.



I think it is an electrical fault as my central locking began playing up as well.
I can't leave it running to do this though, it is knocking that badly. I have never heard misfiring this bad before.

In any case, I'll come back to it in a couple of days.

List of things to check:
air leak
earths on alternator although they seemed tight enough
plugs on chassis leg
ICV swap


My ICV was extremely hot even though that car barely ran and the engine was cold. Do they normally get particulary hot as I can't say I've noticed that they do...? Someone idle their car for 2 minutes and see if it gets really hot please?

This would again possibly point towards bad earthing or wiring somewhere.

This is all bearing in mind that I haven't actually changed anything electrical apart from I guess the IAT that was in the new TB, but that was working fine on the old car and unplugging made no difference.
I've only swapped PAS pump, radiator, manifold and throttle body. We did remove the alternator to retrieve a dropped PAS spacer but that's all back on just fine from what I can tell.

Any more ideas?

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61k miles Ph.1 Diablo '6 Project Thread

Yeah I'm thinking the alternator connections might not be tight. Can get a socket on it but not a spanner nor ratchet on the socket, and they are certainly finger tight but maybe we didn't fully tighten them.

I will remove the manifold and have a proper check of them.

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61k miles Ph.1 Diablo '6 Project Thread

yes!

I'm convinced this is an electrical fault and will try some things tomorrow, but my fuel lines couldn't possibly be contributing to this problem could they?

I replaced the final bit of the lines between the green and white cube connectors and the fuel rail with generic hose from factors but both of the correct internal diameters, and noticed that once the fuel rail is pressurised the fuel feed line swells up unlike the standard ones which are way stiffer. There is no leaking of fuel or pressure though.

I can't see why this would be a problem? I will replace it with something better anyway in the near future even if it isn't causing the issue.

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61k miles Ph.1 Diablo '6 Project Thread

I didn't remove the fpr for this reason. I just masked it off.
Worth getting genuine fuel lines? Braided hose? Genuine ones have to go on backorder

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61k miles Ph.1 Diablo '6 Project Thread

I used generic fuel hose from an autoparts shop. Looked very bloated when pressurised...I suppose this might be affecting the pressure or upsetting the fpr.

If I go to a factors and ask for injection hose it'll be more rigid like the oem hoses?

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61k miles Ph.1 Diablo '6 Project Thread

What you after icv? Or map

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Old pugs don't die they just get faster