displaying posts 1 to 25 of 32

Pages (2): [1] 2

Author Subject: battery relocation cable
pugheaven

Seasoned Pro

Location: Fareham

Registered: 17 Dec 2006

Posts: 4,602

Status: Offline

Post #1
Back in the day I was really into my sound system and got the best of everything I could, 8 years later and I still have a brand new 0 gauge arm wiring kit that I paid well over £130 for....
Can I use this power cable for a battery relocation kit??
The wire core is about 13mm and came with a 250 amp fuse.
I'm not clued up at all when it comes to electronics so if anyone is can you let me know if it's suitable for the job?

Ollie
Posted 24th Sep 2013 at 12:00
superchargedblack1997gti6

Seasoned Pro

Location: guildford

Registered: 15 Aug 2009

Posts: 2,376

Status: Offline

Post #2
That will be more than man enough mate. That cables good for a lot more power than the starter will use!

________________________________________

Super high boost Completed, destroyer of gearboxes and 160mph club
Posted 24th Sep 2013 at 12:02
pugheaven

Seasoned Pro

Location: Fareham

Registered: 17 Dec 2006

Posts: 4,602

Status: Offline

Post #3
Sweet, is the starter 125amp.... Or is that just a number I have made up lol
Posted 24th Sep 2013 at 12:05
pugheaven

Seasoned Pro

Location: Fareham

Registered: 17 Dec 2006

Posts: 4,602

Status: Offline

Post #4
Oh and is it worth using the fuse or getting a lower rated one?
Posted 24th Sep 2013 at 12:06
superchargedblack1997gti6

Seasoned Pro

Location: guildford

Registered: 15 Aug 2009

Posts: 2,376

Status: Offline

Post #5
I would say that 200 amp would be fine? but I'm not a qualified sparky. if you Pm eddy I'm sure he can give you the necessary info?

________________________________________

Super high boost Completed, destroyer of gearboxes and 160mph club
Posted 24th Sep 2013 at 12:13
pugheaven

Seasoned Pro

Location: Fareham

Registered: 17 Dec 2006

Posts: 4,602

Status: Offline

Post #6
Ah he is the man to talk to is he, nice one Ross thanks Thumbs up
Posted 24th Sep 2013 at 12:17
3rd time lucky

Seasoned Pro

Location: maidstone

Registered: 23 Apr 2007

Posts: 1,879

Status: Offline

Post #7
Im quite curious to know what kind of sound system you were going to fit, to warrant using that kind of power cable!!! LOL

________________________________________

DIABLO GTI-6 - Legend - NILE GTI-6 - Sold
CHERRY GTI-6 P1 SUPERCHARGED - Broken up
BLACK RALLYE - Sold
205 Dturbo xud9 work horse - Dead
CHERRY RALLYE - new toy
Posted 24th Sep 2013 at 12:33
superchargedblack1997gti6

Seasoned Pro

Location: guildford

Registered: 15 Aug 2009

Posts: 2,376

Status: Offline

Post #8
I ran the same size cable for my directed 2500watt amps and 2x pioneer 1500watt subs. Still have them sat around too! if i turned them up full it would shatter the rear screen!

________________________________________

Super high boost Completed, destroyer of gearboxes and 160mph club
Posted 24th Sep 2013 at 12:38
3rd time lucky

Seasoned Pro

Location: maidstone

Registered: 23 Apr 2007

Posts: 1,879

Status: Offline

Post #9
superchargedblack1997gti6 wrote:
I ran the same size cable for my directed 2500watt amps and 2x pioneer 1500watt subs. Still have them sat around too! if i turned them up full it would shatter the rear screen!


Reminds me of my younger days. Running a 2000 watt amp for my 2x Audiobahn 12" and a 1200 watt amp for my 4x 6x9's LOL

________________________________________

DIABLO GTI-6 - Legend - NILE GTI-6 - Sold
CHERRY GTI-6 P1 SUPERCHARGED - Broken up
BLACK RALLYE - Sold
205 Dturbo xud9 work horse - Dead
CHERRY RALLYE - new toy
Posted 24th Sep 2013 at 12:42
eddy_gti6

Seasoned Pro

Location: Durham

Registered: 20 Oct 2008

Posts: 8,716

Status: Offline

Post #10
There is no need for 0 guage wire for your battery relocation mate. Also there is no need to run a fuse either. Just join your starter cable and cables from the fuse box into a junction box then run the relocation wire from the 2nd terminal on the junction box. When I was making the kits I was using IIRC 20mm 135amp battery cable.

click here

________________________________________


Clicky: [url =http://www.306gti6.com]click here[/url] remove the space between [url & =
Posted 24th Sep 2013 at 13:23
superchargedblack1997gti6

Seasoned Pro

Location: guildford

Registered: 15 Aug 2009

Posts: 2,376

Status: Offline

Post #11
I think he just has the cable lying around. Should be fine though shouldn't it Chris ? can't be any harm having a fuse either?

________________________________________

Super high boost Completed, destroyer of gearboxes and 160mph club
Posted 24th Sep 2013 at 13:24
eddy_gti6

Seasoned Pro

Location: Durham

Registered: 20 Oct 2008

Posts: 8,716

Status: Offline

Post #12
0 gauge will work but adds weight and affect the current flow, all depends what you are planning on running in the car? If you plan on running a big sound system then it will be fine but if not you might be better off running something thinner and you need to run the same thickness wire for your earth as well. Also earth your battery in the boot somewhere, keep the earth cable short and remember to get a good earth between your gearbox and chassis.

________________________________________


Clicky: [url =http://www.306gti6.com]click here[/url] remove the space between [url & =
Posted 24th Sep 2013 at 13:46
pugheaven

Seasoned Pro

Location: Fareham

Registered: 17 Dec 2006

Posts: 4,602

Status: Offline

Post #13
No sound system, iv got a load of 4 gauge would that be a better option?
Posted 24th Sep 2013 at 13:56
superchargedblack1997gti6

Seasoned Pro

Location: guildford

Registered: 15 Aug 2009

Posts: 2,376

Status: Offline

Post #14
0gauge will give less resistance so surely would be better? other than the weight obviously?

________________________________________

Super high boost Completed, destroyer of gearboxes and 160mph club
Posted 24th Sep 2013 at 14:22
eddy_gti6

Seasoned Pro

Location: Durham

Registered: 20 Oct 2008

Posts: 8,716

Status: Offline

Post #15
I would use the 4 gauge over the 0 gauge yes. Its the feed you need to think about, the thinner wire will give a better feed. For example if you put a thicker hose on the end of your tap you will get a lot less pressure out of it than you would with a normal hose. Works pretty much the same with electricity if you know what I am getting at?

________________________________________


Clicky: [url =http://www.306gti6.com]click here[/url] remove the space between [url & =
Posted 24th Sep 2013 at 14:49
phillipm

Seasoned Pro

Location: Rotherham

Registered: 15 Oct 2006

Posts: 20,607

Status: Offline

Post #16
No it doesn't.

Thicker wire = less voltage drop for a given distance. Especially needed in cold weather when the car has been stood a while.

I use a minimum of 25mm^2 cable for the battery runs on the racers when the cable is a more than a foot or two long, which is approximately 3 gauge in size.

________________________________________

- Bespoke rollcages/additions/adjustments. Half cages right up to complete custom spaceframes - MSA/FIA spec, CDS, ROPT, T45, etc - PM me
Email me!
Custom-made polybushes available - need an odd size or fitment? - anything from batch work to one-off pieces.
Posted 24th Sep 2013 at 14:56
jimmyhackers

Seasoned Pro

Location: birmingham

Registered: 14 Jun 2011

Posts: 1,149

Status: Offline

Post #17
i used a jumper cable originally. big thick and coppery. could take 400amps apparently. put battery in the boot and used my chassis as an earth link....

car cranked soooo slowwww.... ended up buying some high grade audio wire that was 200amps and bloody expensive.

was still slow to crank but a good improvement.... im guessing the audio cable had less oxygen in the copper and provided less resistance....

________________________________________

the world is changed by people in sheds
Posted 24th Sep 2013 at 17:40
pugheaven

Seasoned Pro

Location: Fareham

Registered: 17 Dec 2006

Posts: 4,602

Status: Offline

Post #18
Confused now..
I was going to use the 0 gauge from the battery in the boot/rear pass foot well to the junction box in the engine bay and then 4 gauge from the junction box to the fuse box, starter etc....

Or is it best to just use 4 gauge throughout?
Posted 24th Sep 2013 at 17:47
superchargedblack1997gti6

Seasoned Pro

Location: guildford

Registered: 15 Aug 2009

Posts: 2,376

Status: Offline

Post #19
what you said would be best! 0 gauge then the 4 guage elsewhere. IMHO

________________________________________

Super high boost Completed, destroyer of gearboxes and 160mph club
Posted 24th Sep 2013 at 18:07
phillipm

Seasoned Pro

Location: Rotherham

Registered: 15 Oct 2006

Posts: 20,607

Status: Offline

Post #20
jimmyhackers wrote:
i used a jumper cable originally. big thick and coppery. could take 400amps apparently. put battery in the boot and used my chassis as an earth link....

car cranked soooo slowwww.... ended up buying some high grade audio wire that was 200amps and bloody expensive.

was still slow to crank but a good improvement.... im guessing the audio cable had less oxygen in the copper and provided less resistance....


No, you just had some s**t jump leads that are probably rated at 400amps for 0.1 seconds.

________________________________________

- Bespoke rollcages/additions/adjustments. Half cages right up to complete custom spaceframes - MSA/FIA spec, CDS, ROPT, T45, etc - PM me
Email me!
Custom-made polybushes available - need an odd size or fitment? - anything from batch work to one-off pieces.
Posted 24th Sep 2013 at 18:41
jimmyhackers

Seasoned Pro

Location: birmingham

Registered: 14 Jun 2011

Posts: 1,149

Status: Offline

Post #21
whats to disagree about?, i said "apparently" and then explained why it was s**t and had to replace it.

disagree about this if you like Smile

i dont do the different gauge wire method. i just connected the positive lead from my battery + terminal to the positive battery connector,running the cable under the carpets and through where my air con pipes used to go through. i earthed my battery to the chassis with another much shorter cable.

i then connected my negative battery connector to a spare bodywork bolt in the enginebay.

its a good shout to protect the cable with a "contractors pack" basically some corrigated plastic tubing you can get from most electrical trade places liek CEF etc.

________________________________________

the world is changed by people in sheds
Posted 7th Oct 2013 at 18:11
phillipm

Seasoned Pro

Location: Rotherham

Registered: 15 Oct 2006

Posts: 20,607

Status: Offline

Post #22
This is what to disagree about:

"im guessing the audio cable had less oxygen in the copper and provided less resistance."

Don't believe the bulls**t the audio guys pedal.

________________________________________

- Bespoke rollcages/additions/adjustments. Half cages right up to complete custom spaceframes - MSA/FIA spec, CDS, ROPT, T45, etc - PM me
Email me!
Custom-made polybushes available - need an odd size or fitment? - anything from batch work to one-off pieces.
Posted 8th Oct 2013 at 17:44
mark.evs

Senior User

Location: Near Bridgend

Registered: 21 Dec 2010

Posts: 527

Status: Offline

Post #23
I used a main power cable from a BMW, got it off e-bay for £30, has a proper terminal to connect to the battery and an eyelet on the other end to connect straight to the starter. I did however cut it to fit a kill switch in the car and then ran a smaller power lead from the switch to the fusebox under the bonnet.

________________________________________

My GTi6 track project

White Rallye project
Posted 8th Oct 2013 at 23:28
beez_neez_gt

Seasoned Pro

Location: @ de limit of adhesion !

Registered: 14 Oct 2008

Posts: 2,916

Status: Offline

Post #24
Same here as above, except I got mine from the scrappy for a tenner Thumbs up

________________________________________

Pug fee`ver,

Pick a Bogey, buy a Pug.

Black 306 GTI 6 Standard, was 60k mileage, bargain!!

Clicky: [url =http://www.306gti6.com]click here[/url] remove the space between [url & =
Posted 9th Oct 2013 at 00:15
jimmyhackers

Seasoned Pro

Location: birmingham

Registered: 14 Jun 2011

Posts: 1,149

Status: Offline

Post #25
i started off with some "400 amp" jumper cables that i butchered, that was the crap stuff. then got some "200" amp audio cable. was exact same width of the other stuff but more insulation and a smaller wound multi copper core.

sadly, i didnt have 400+ amps to test their claims. but the better quality audio cable worked better than s**t large jumper cables.

internal resistance is a biggish factor in such an application. a larger resistance in a long cable adds ups.

on a tangent ive always wondered about adding a supercap to compensate, anyone done this before?

________________________________________

the world is changed by people in sheds
Posted 9th Oct 2013 at 01:08

Pages (2): [1] 2

All times are GMT. The time is now 03:50

The Peugeot GTi-6 & Rallye Owners Club - ©2024 all rights reserved.

Please Note: The views and opinions found herein are those of individuals, and not of The Peugeot 306 GTi-6 & Rallye Owners Club or any individuals involved.
No responsibility is taken or assumed for any comments or statements made on, or in relation to, this website. Please see our updated privacy policy.