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Author Subject: battery relocation cable
pugheaven

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Post #1
Back in the day I was really into my sound system and got the best of everything I could, 8 years later and I still have a brand new 0 gauge arm wiring kit that I paid well over £130 for....
Can I use this power cable for a battery relocation kit??
The wire core is about 13mm and came with a 250 amp fuse.
I'm not clued up at all when it comes to electronics so if anyone is can you let me know if it's suitable for the job?

Ollie
Posted 24th Sep 2013 at 12:00
superchargedblack1997gti6

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Post #2
That will be more than man enough mate. That cables good for a lot more power than the starter will use!

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Posted 24th Sep 2013 at 12:02
pugheaven

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Post #3
Sweet, is the starter 125amp.... Or is that just a number I have made up lol
Posted 24th Sep 2013 at 12:05
pugheaven

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Post #4
Oh and is it worth using the fuse or getting a lower rated one?
Posted 24th Sep 2013 at 12:06
superchargedblack1997gti6

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Post #5
I would say that 200 amp would be fine? but I'm not a qualified sparky. if you Pm eddy I'm sure he can give you the necessary info?

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Posted 24th Sep 2013 at 12:13
pugheaven

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Post #6
Ah he is the man to talk to is he, nice one Ross thanks Thumbs up
Posted 24th Sep 2013 at 12:17
3rd time lucky

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Post #7
Im quite curious to know what kind of sound system you were going to fit, to warrant using that kind of power cable!!! LOL

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Posted 24th Sep 2013 at 12:33
superchargedblack1997gti6

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Post #8
I ran the same size cable for my directed 2500watt amps and 2x pioneer 1500watt subs. Still have them sat around too! if i turned them up full it would shatter the rear screen!

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Posted 24th Sep 2013 at 12:38
3rd time lucky

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Post #9
superchargedblack1997gti6 wrote:
I ran the same size cable for my directed 2500watt amps and 2x pioneer 1500watt subs. Still have them sat around too! if i turned them up full it would shatter the rear screen!


Reminds me of my younger days. Running a 2000 watt amp for my 2x Audiobahn 12" and a 1200 watt amp for my 4x 6x9's LOL

________________________________________

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BLACK RALLYE - Sold
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CHERRY RALLYE - new toy
Posted 24th Sep 2013 at 12:42
eddy_gti6

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Post #10
There is no need for 0 guage wire for your battery relocation mate. Also there is no need to run a fuse either. Just join your starter cable and cables from the fuse box into a junction box then run the relocation wire from the 2nd terminal on the junction box. When I was making the kits I was using IIRC 20mm 135amp battery cable.

click here

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Posted 24th Sep 2013 at 13:23
superchargedblack1997gti6

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Post #11
I think he just has the cable lying around. Should be fine though shouldn't it Chris ? can't be any harm having a fuse either?

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Posted 24th Sep 2013 at 13:24
eddy_gti6

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Post #12
0 gauge will work but adds weight and affect the current flow, all depends what you are planning on running in the car? If you plan on running a big sound system then it will be fine but if not you might be better off running something thinner and you need to run the same thickness wire for your earth as well. Also earth your battery in the boot somewhere, keep the earth cable short and remember to get a good earth between your gearbox and chassis.

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Posted 24th Sep 2013 at 13:46
pugheaven

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Post #13
No sound system, iv got a load of 4 gauge would that be a better option?
Posted 24th Sep 2013 at 13:56
superchargedblack1997gti6

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Post #14
0gauge will give less resistance so surely would be better? other than the weight obviously?

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Posted 24th Sep 2013 at 14:22
eddy_gti6

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Post #15
I would use the 4 gauge over the 0 gauge yes. Its the feed you need to think about, the thinner wire will give a better feed. For example if you put a thicker hose on the end of your tap you will get a lot less pressure out of it than you would with a normal hose. Works pretty much the same with electricity if you know what I am getting at?

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Posted 24th Sep 2013 at 14:49
phillipm

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Post #16
No it doesn't.

Thicker wire = less voltage drop for a given distance. Especially needed in cold weather when the car has been stood a while.

I use a minimum of 25mm^2 cable for the battery runs on the racers when the cable is a more than a foot or two long, which is approximately 3 gauge in size.

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Posted 24th Sep 2013 at 14:56
jimmyhackers

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Post #17
i used a jumper cable originally. big thick and coppery. could take 400amps apparently. put battery in the boot and used my chassis as an earth link....

car cranked soooo slowwww.... ended up buying some high grade audio wire that was 200amps and bloody expensive.

was still slow to crank but a good improvement.... im guessing the audio cable had less oxygen in the copper and provided less resistance....

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Posted 24th Sep 2013 at 17:40
pugheaven

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Post #18
Confused now..
I was going to use the 0 gauge from the battery in the boot/rear pass foot well to the junction box in the engine bay and then 4 gauge from the junction box to the fuse box, starter etc....

Or is it best to just use 4 gauge throughout?
Posted 24th Sep 2013 at 17:47
superchargedblack1997gti6

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Post #19
what you said would be best! 0 gauge then the 4 guage elsewhere. IMHO

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Posted 24th Sep 2013 at 18:07
phillipm

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Post #20
jimmyhackers wrote:
i used a jumper cable originally. big thick and coppery. could take 400amps apparently. put battery in the boot and used my chassis as an earth link....

car cranked soooo slowwww.... ended up buying some high grade audio wire that was 200amps and bloody expensive.

was still slow to crank but a good improvement.... im guessing the audio cable had less oxygen in the copper and provided less resistance....


No, you just had some s**t jump leads that are probably rated at 400amps for 0.1 seconds.

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Posted 24th Sep 2013 at 18:41
jimmyhackers

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Post #21
whats to disagree about?, i said "apparently" and then explained why it was s**t and had to replace it.

disagree about this if you like Smile

i dont do the different gauge wire method. i just connected the positive lead from my battery + terminal to the positive battery connector,running the cable under the carpets and through where my air con pipes used to go through. i earthed my battery to the chassis with another much shorter cable.

i then connected my negative battery connector to a spare bodywork bolt in the enginebay.

its a good shout to protect the cable with a "contractors pack" basically some corrigated plastic tubing you can get from most electrical trade places liek CEF etc.

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Posted 7th Oct 2013 at 18:11
phillipm

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Post #22
This is what to disagree about:

"im guessing the audio cable had less oxygen in the copper and provided less resistance."

Don't believe the bulls**t the audio guys pedal.

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Posted 8th Oct 2013 at 17:44
mark.evs

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Post #23
I used a main power cable from a BMW, got it off e-bay for £30, has a proper terminal to connect to the battery and an eyelet on the other end to connect straight to the starter. I did however cut it to fit a kill switch in the car and then ran a smaller power lead from the switch to the fusebox under the bonnet.

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Posted 8th Oct 2013 at 23:28
beez_neez_gt

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Post #24
Same here as above, except I got mine from the scrappy for a tenner Thumbs up

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Posted 9th Oct 2013 at 00:15
jimmyhackers

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Post #25
i started off with some "400 amp" jumper cables that i butchered, that was the crap stuff. then got some "200" amp audio cable. was exact same width of the other stuff but more insulation and a smaller wound multi copper core.

sadly, i didnt have 400+ amps to test their claims. but the better quality audio cable worked better than s**t large jumper cables.

internal resistance is a biggish factor in such an application. a larger resistance in a long cable adds ups.

on a tangent ive always wondered about adding a supercap to compensate, anyone done this before?

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Posted 9th Oct 2013 at 01:08

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