bond a shower curtain under there and hope for the best

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306 rallye reproduction decals (full sets/individual decals) | 306 b-pillar textured vinyl weatherstrips
306 slam panel esso stickers | 306 yellow / orange / pension fund red side door badges
gti6 inlet manifold badges | 306 rear boot badges (p2/p3)
winner of Extraction of toys from prams with outstanding vigour award 2009 [source: gti6 owners club]

"Coskev" did an ok job on his, might be worth seeing what he did

http://www.306gti6.com/forum/showthread.php?id=131873&page=13

it's "alright" i suppose, average at best

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306 rallye reproduction decals (full sets/individual decals) | 306 b-pillar textured vinyl weatherstrips
306 slam panel esso stickers | 306 yellow / orange / pension fund red side door badges
gti6 inlet manifold badges | 306 rear boot badges (p2/p3)
winner of Extraction of toys from prams with outstanding vigour award 2009 [source: gti6 owners club]

Yes there is, Jotun jotamastic 87 is a sea boat 2k primer about £47 for 4,5 litres and enough for a few coats for underneath like how I did mine. Google the name and you will see a few places that sell it. Its an Epoxy primer BTW, used by industries and as you know its far cheaper then rust bullet. I've known a few people that have used rust bullet on clean rust for it to start coming back again. This Jotamastic 87, 87 means it has 87% solids and you can get it in lower solid or higher solid amounts, it can be painted onto top minor surface rust and will seal it in.

I've seen a car done with this primer ten years ago and it still looks like new, I roller it on and its given a very smooth stone chip look, which I prefer because underneath on all cars don't have it looking like the top half lol. You can spray this 2k stuff using a good facemask but tbh I found it much easier and get into every nook and crannies with a roller and brush. You won't need an air fed mask because it doesn't contain any of those usual 2k chemicals that can cause asthma, just a good face mask is enough.

Once I removed all the old crud on the floor etc and got clean steel using fine bristle drill brushes I used these pads http://www.trade1st.co.uk/paint-and-varnish-removing-pads. Obviously due to time you will find surface rust coming back so these pads using the rough one will easily remove it all and also provide a really good key for great adhesion. Great pads that don't lose its colour like washing up types and great for getting a key on paints bare steel etc.

For mine I found doing 2 very thin coats where it's still wet you can see the steel colour through it, i then applied two medium coats, many layers is the best way for the best protection. This stuff when dry is very tough yet still has flexibility, its used for sea boats so will cope with wet salty roads no problem. I even had drips of it on the dusty floor and it stuck on like glue.

I also use quality 2k thinners to thin it down a bit on the first coats, also just before it starts to go off after an hour I put some 2k thinners in and it helps stop it going thick due to it curing, so you don't waste any. You can only do this the once though.

If you get this stuff, fully read the instructions and ratios etc and you will be fine, the hardener is like syrup, very thick. I used some of them measuring syringes with a bigger drilled hole in it to help suck this syrup up and for measuring it precisely, especially for small amounts, I think iirc this 87 stuff has a ratio of 6-1.

http://www.paints4trade.com/jotun-jotamastic-87-4064-p.asp

http://www.jotun.com.cn/www/com/20020113.nsf?OpenDatabase&db=/www/com/20020115.nsf&v=10F2&e=uk&m=912&c=D6327528E2FCC43648257917002D0831

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Pug fee`ver,

Pick a Bogey, buy a Pug.

Black 306 GTI 6 Standard, was 60k mileage, bargain!!

Clicky: [url =http://www.306gti6.com]click here[/url] remove the space between [url & =

weld some zinc to your underside like they do on oil rigs and boats.

will slow the rust right down.

and before i get shouted at there's zinc in the original pug paint that helps prevent rust in exactly the same way

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the world is changed by people in sheds

Gonna be trying some por15 on mine. Meant to be pretty good at stopping rust and gets harder in damp conditions

I did my engine bay before I found this Jotun epoxy primer, else I would have used it as the main primer, although for bodywork you would have to thin it down quite a bit and apply a few layers due to when its thinned down it can look a bit see through when wet.

As said like with all painting, many thin layers built up is the best way. If a stone hit the floor at 70 mph and it did chip a bit off, it will just take the last layer off not the whole lot down to the steel. Plus this primer comes in a very light grey almost white colour when dry, so if you did spot any chips (which is very unlikely) you will be able to see it well..

I have spent many hours and days researching what is the best and easiest primer to use for my main project and this Jotun stuff is the best I found. It hasn't had any bad comments or experiences at all, however that por15 rubbish has had loads, just another cheap americanised consumer product.

With the Jotun, you know its used by industries, sea boats and a like. Also if you did want the coskev look then once you have finished all the coats and all dry, you could spent lots of time flat sanding it down but its tough stuff, so up to you.

Just another note to add, this primer comes in two types of hardener. One is the summer type where 20c is the best temp to use it with, where every coat needs 24 hours before the next coat for its flash off period. Thinning it down also means it takes longer to flash off before the next coat.

The second type of hardener is the winter grade, its where it will work at around freezing temperatures but when used in the summer temps means its flash off period takes a few hours. I used the summer type even in winter but I have a heated garage and kept it at the 20c temps. Now with such a big job I like to use the one that takes 24-48 hours to flash off so a nice rest then apply another coat etc.

In the engine bay I did use high quality Bilt Hamber zinc primer which is great but needs a super clean surface else it just peels off. Bilt Hamber is a good place to buy weld through primers etc.

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Pug fee`ver,

Pick a Bogey, buy a Pug.

Black 306 GTI 6 Standard, was 60k mileage, bargain!!

Clicky: [url =http://www.306gti6.com]click here[/url] remove the space between [url & =

Mik on here has some pics of how crap por15 is, in his project thread.lasted less than 12 months before rust bubbled threw it

I like Rust Bullet, easy to use, , looks good, hard as nails
In my tecnical test of 'how long does paint stick to your hands' Rust Bullet far surpasses any other paint I've used!!! Takes over a week to remove from your hands scrubbing like f**k in the shower!

I have used a epoxy mastic product before that was supposed to be the bollox Epoxy Mastic121, and it was no where near as good as Rust Bullet
Pain to mix, nowhere near the adhesion of Rust Bullet and peeled off in big flakes pretty easily if you lifted a edge

None of us are professional at this underbody job.

The main thing to do is remove the rust before applying your chosen paint



Cheers pikey

Nice to see I've gone up in your expectations

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Red GTB1756 powered Fabia VRS daily driver,LBSC Gti6 eater........

Mac1 ZR R1 kit car build in progress.

I can confirm the 'Rust bullet hand test' Get it on your fingernails and you might aswell just wait for the nail to grow rather than trying to get it off

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205 GTi Red - G939 RTU - Died!
306 GTi 6 Diablo - Being resurrected! Project Thread

Looking for:
VTS P1 Rack
PR1.2 16"

Iv had trouble with the Electrolux stuff, I cleaned it very well and a few times over with panel wipe but it then started to peel. They told me it has to be super clean until the cloth becomes clean but roughed up steel tends to always make the cloth steel colour no matter how clean it gets. Electrolux is just to sensitive IME.

So for the above reasons I used Jotun, it is a "surface tolerant" primer where cleaning/de-rusting sea boats very well can be very hard to do and clean the surface very well in boat yards etc. Also, just to make sure it gets the best adhesion, i used brake cleaner to clean the floor pan a few times, then used panel degreaser a few times after and since using this technique iv never had any problems with any of these primers, iv never had any issues with the Jotun.

Jotun = Cheap, high solids, surface tolerant, the best protection from sea/fresh water, super adhesion abilities, easy to apply and also cheap, did I forget that bit

Within the chassis box sections inc inside the sills where its too difficult to derust, I used this stuff from Bilt Hamber http://www.bilthamber.com/cavity-waxes/dynax-s50

It will seal in the remaining rust, if you use this stuff be aware it can get everywhere and after application drip for quite a few hours after, so put some sheeting or card under where it will drip down else you will get the floor covered with it. I'm told it would be best to re-apply this stuff every five years and a bit longer if the car is only used in dry weather.

________________________________________

Pug fee`ver,

Pick a Bogey, buy a Pug.

Black 306 GTI 6 Standard, was 60k mileage, bargain!!

Clicky: [url =http://www.306gti6.com]click here[/url] remove the space between [url & =

Yeah its good stuff but those sheets don't have 70mph stones hitting it like floor pans can get, or chemicals like hot oil or gearbox oil splatters etc. No ones saying it isn't any good at rust proofing, its used on oil rigs, just that there is tougher, easier stuff to use, lets face it no one wants to spent too long under a car making it perfect for good adhesion, its hard enough on axle stands as it was.

________________________________________

Pug fee`ver,

Pick a Bogey, buy a Pug.

Black 306 GTI 6 Standard, was 60k mileage, bargain!!

Clicky: [url =http://www.306gti6.com]click here[/url] remove the space between [url & =

Maybe it didnt have much of a hard life, iv seen floorpans about 20 years old in fine condition. Iv used it on many brackets etc and all has been fine yet a few times its gone bad so I don't use it anymore. Iv painted far more parts etc using jotun and not once had a problem with it.

As said problem with it is how sensitive it is to the surface prep and wont hide rust pits etc unlike a high solid primer can. Its also great for filling in small areas etc.

No paint in the world is indestructible, its all about what lasts, price, usability etc as well as longevity.

________________________________________

Pug fee`ver,

Pick a Bogey, buy a Pug.

Black 306 GTI 6 Standard, was 60k mileage, bargain!!

Clicky: [url =http://www.306gti6.com]click here[/url] remove the space between [url & =

this

iv used Bilt Hamber products over past few years

some rust is creeping back in some places but it is from place i cannot physically reach and its just seeping back out from box sections and seams, also edges iv scuffed when doing gearbox/clutch changes

really cannot beat going over the surface with wire wheels of various sizes

one thing i learned was when i done rear of the car, i done this in winter 2/3 years ago and there is now a lot of surface rust kicking about under there now (compared to other parts i done summer times) i would stick to doing derusting work in summer or somewhere warm.

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TEAM HIGH BOOST SUPERCHARGED RALLYE

My Rallye project thread