Speak to allenallen, crf450, ash or russian guy. They know a thing or two.

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Nothing to see here

Cheers Adam

You should start by letting us know what set up you've got at the minute, what discipline your competing in, what tyres you're using/what are you allowed to use and budget.
Just because a car looks flat when cornering doesn't mean it's 'handling' well or using its tyres properly.

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Well of course, my mistake and thanks for all the answers

I’m 45 years old and having realized that my talent has some shortcomings are competing in the lowest class of rally in Denmark a discipline called “klub rally” but it’s more like autosolo or slalom to you guy’s.

So far my main concern has been to lighten the car by removing sound deadening in the bottom of the car and of course all carpets, seats and so on giving af weight of around 1040 kg.

At the moment I have H&R(Bilstein) monotube coilovers at the front and Bilstein at the back, Kumho V70A tyres and that’s pretty much it.

Due to regulations I’m not allowed to change the top mount and the rosejointing are also not allowed. Tyre vice these must be E-marked or Dot’ed.

My budget lye within reason, meaning I will spend a lot if I get a lot. I will spend perhaps 1000 £ if I get a car that handles well but I will not spend 800 for not much gain.

The guy in the video must be running bodies.

Sounded

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Of course I do. It's just generally, I make one, bolt it to mine, take some pictures and then can't be arsed to make any more...

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I'm not entirely sure what autosolo and slalom are to be honest? Is it like sprinting or is it more handbrake turning through cones and stuff?
If it is those tyres may not be the best choice as they need heat in them to work properly. If they are though as Pete says they need some negative camber to work properly, ideally some castor and you want to be looking at your spring rates.
Shameless plug I know but we can modify your front uprights and rear arms to give neg camber, our method gets around alot of regs although it sounds like these shouldn't be a problem for you anyway. Extra castor could be a problem, you're either gonna have to alter the subframe, wishbones or perhaps move the standard strut top holes if you can get away with that? Either way it's not a bolt on solution.
What spring rate at the front, torsion bars and arbs are you using?

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Well, klubrally is around 10 stages with a length of around 2 km each. Max speed is 140 km/h (In a 106 rallye) and there is a lot of handbreaking and very tight corners. Look her and you will see http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ykJbz2spDyQ
Very good point about the tires as they tend to only get warm at the end of each stage. I have tried with softer ones but they seem to melt at the end so others must be found(I looked at Michelin Pilot Sport Cup as a compromise between hardcore R-tires and more normal ones)
Both ARB and torsionbars are as standard. I planned to switch to a Hybrid ARB but part of the reason I’m for this thread are a wish of doing it right first time.

That's something where a much higher rear rate would be beneficial due to the low speed of most of the manouvers, however it might hurt you if there's high speed sweepers, it's something that could be a compromise with better rear dampers as you could jack the low speed up to deliberately overload the rear outside tyre when throwing the car into a tight turn to get the car to rotate.
As it'll push the front in turns that tight at low speed, a stiffer rear arb for the cheapest way to push the balance of grip forward, or preferably, stiffer torsion bars and springs and go down on the front arb size to gain overall grip, although that costs more cash

Front camber will definately help as tyre rollover can be a big issue in events like that.
Are you allowed to run fiddle brakes?

________________________________________

- Bespoke rollcages/additions/adjustments. Half cages right up to complete custom spaceframes - MSA/FIA spec, CDS, ROPT, T45, etc - PM me
Email me!
Custom-made polybushes available - need an odd size or fitment? - anything from batch work to one-off pieces.