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Author Subject: broken KW
JWP EFi

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Registered: 07 Mar 2010

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Post #1
The locating lug on my O/S Kw has broken off, before anyone asks, yes it was fitted correctly. Yesterday i hit a brick that was on the road, smashed my wheel and mullered the tyre, today when i checked it over i found the the damper had gone all the way through the hub until it hit the cv joint. The welds that fix the locating lug to the damper body don't look substantial enough to be anything other than a locator.
Any suggestions as to how i can fix it? Going to get in touch with anyone that deals with KW to see if it can be repaired
Not a great pic but you get the idea
Posted 11th May 2013 at 20:40
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mik

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Location: Kent

Registered: 17 Feb 2011

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Post #2
What is that wet stuff on the hub? From inside the damper or just some WD40 or something?

Depends whether it can be re-welded without overheating hte damper internals seals etc. I'd see if you can deal with KW directly.

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Posted 11th May 2013 at 21:48
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JWP EFi

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Post #3
its WD40 mate, ive put a straight edge on the damper and it is still straight, no leaks to speak of. I will make some enquiries on monday to see what can be done. Ive got a few contacts who could weld it for me but as you say the heat may just cook the seals or even explode
Posted 11th May 2013 at 22:21
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daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

Location: Southampton

Registered: 01 Oct 2007

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Post #4
Get it welded back on. It's far enough away not to damage any rubbers if you make sure the rod is fully extended. Chuck a wet towel round it top and bottom to keep the heat from travelling if you're worried.

Pop it in a box and send it here if you haven't got someone up there you want to do the job.

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Posted 13th May 2013 at 14:03
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phillipm

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Post #5
Better off just taking the insert out and draining the casing, there's oil behind it there.

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Posted 13th May 2013 at 17:11
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daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

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Post #6
phillipm wrote:
Better off just taking the insert out and draining the casing, there's oil behind it there.


I know, but two quick tacks wont do the oil any harm.

________________________________________

R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.

Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
Engine mount/chassis repair
Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION
Harness bars
Posted 13th May 2013 at 17:52
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phillipm

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Post #7
Probably, but it doesn't take much to block the valving in those, the ports are tiny.

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Posted 13th May 2013 at 18:14
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daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

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Post #8
Looks like a strip down is the only safe answer, but if they were mine I'd chance it.

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R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.

Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
Engine mount/chassis repair
Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION
Harness bars
Posted 13th May 2013 at 18:15
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phillipm

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Post #9
It's one of those where 99% of times you'll be fine.

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Posted 13th May 2013 at 18:33
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JWP EFi

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Post #10
daveyboy wrote:
phillipm wrote:
Better off just taking the insert out and draining the casing, there's oil behind it there.


I know, but two quick tacks wont do the oil any harm.


So do we agree that this is doable? really dont want to have to buy a replacement damper
Posted 13th May 2013 at 18:44
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JWP EFi

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Post #11
also, without having them in front of me right now, can they be stripped down? ie by myself?
Posted 13th May 2013 at 18:45
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phillipm

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Post #12
Big nut at the top, undo that, drain the oil out of the casing, recover the o-rings and lift the internal tube/shaft out in one piece (and make sure you keep it spotless, especially on the bottom), viola, empty casing.

edit:






Keep this bit as close to surgically spotless as you can, dirt in there can jam a shim open = no damping.



You need to measure exactly how much oil comes out/where it was up to in the casing, the correct oil level is vital.

________________________________________

- Bespoke rollcages/additions/adjustments. Half cages right up to complete custom spaceframes - MSA/FIA spec, CDS, ROPT, T45, etc - PM me
Email me!
Custom-made polybushes available - need an odd size or fitment? - anything from batch work to one-off pieces.
Posted 13th May 2013 at 20:45
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JWP EFi

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Post #13
what and where do i get buy oil from?
Very helpful info btw.
Posted 13th May 2013 at 23:17
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phillipm

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Post #14
Rock Oil's 7.5wt or RSF 5w are relatively close in viscosity IIRC. Or save what you drain out and put it back in, you'll only loose a couple of ml in the container.

________________________________________

- Bespoke rollcages/additions/adjustments. Half cages right up to complete custom spaceframes - MSA/FIA spec, CDS, ROPT, T45, etc - PM me
Email me!
Custom-made polybushes available - need an odd size or fitment? - anything from batch work to one-off pieces.
Posted 13th May 2013 at 23:48
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welshpug!

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Post #15
Suspension oil shop Big grin

Not sure for cars. But for bikes we use motorbike shops as its the same stuff in the same weights.

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Posted 13th May 2013 at 23:49
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JWP EFi

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Post #16
cheers boys. If i get spare hour or 2 tomorrow i will take off dampers and see if i think i'm capable of stripping them down so i can have lug welded back on.
Posted 13th May 2013 at 23:53
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jamiek_uk2000

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Post #17
The only thing with changing the oil in one, is that I would personally change it in the pair. New oil has a much better viscosity then old. If you use the old oil and put it back in then you'll be fine Thumbs up

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Posted 14th May 2013 at 04:19
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JWP EFi

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Post #18
i would do both as a matter of course
Posted 14th May 2013 at 07:30
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armzsc6

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Post #19
I would man up and get the welder out to save you hours of hassle and potentially incorrect damping afterwards Thumbs up

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Posted 14th May 2013 at 19:07
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