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Author Subject: Very rich running. ECU sensor (green) checks
dangti6

aka JKshooter

Location: Taunton, Somerset

Registered: 15 Jun 2006

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Post #1
I've a DTA ECU with Satchell bodies and yesterday it failed its MOT on the emissions being sky high.

Read a 7.66 CO. The limit is 3.5 LOL

Back when it was mapped it was spot on so nothing should have changed since to make it suddenly over fuel twice the limit. To note: I last stretched it's legs in October before storing it away and since have only fired it up a few times. It was popping and banging when started but after a plug clean (they were black) it would run better. When stone cold the idle would be around 500 but when warm it would sort itself out.

I've spoken to Sandy, and mentioned sonce mapping I have fitted a helper spring to make the pedal a bit more useable. It was suggested that this could be causing the issue.


Short of removing that and taking it back with crossed fingers I wondered what else I should check. It's one of those things that can't really be rectified with an obvious improvement.

I am a noob with a multimeter but I retested a few sensors to see if anything obvious appeared. Bear in mind these were done stone cold. I can run it up to temp and try again - but these still may say something.

Green coolant sensor reads 3.53 when the multimeter is set to 20k

Anyone tested a working sensor cold and have a figure to compare?

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    • Posted 9th May 2013 at 18:41
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    welshpug!

    Capt Pedantic

    Location: Bigend, Wales.

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    Post #2
    see FAQ...


    got a flaptop you can hook up to ecu?

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    Posted 9th May 2013 at 19:29
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    dangti6

    aka JKshooter

    Location: Taunton, Somerset

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    Post #3
    Yeah had a nosey at that but can't get my multimeter to give ohm readings in that ballpark at all. It's a cheapy so that's probably why.

    When warmed up to the second line on the 205 gauge (the first thick/bold one) it reads 0.36. Could that possibly be 360ohms? Which could be say 75degrees by the FAQ which in fact could mean its accurate if that portion of the 205 gauge is roughly 75degrees.

    I've an old laptop yeah. It's - 2006/2007 so I hoped it would have the correct port but it doesn't unfortunately. I've ordered a cable so will download the software and see if I can get it to connect with a USB adapter. What I am looking for in the software I will have no idea until I have a nosey. Hopefully it's fairly clear to work out.

    I can take that with me and adjust it down if the ability is there.

    I was out for 10 mins or so wandering from the back to check for smoke and to look at the gauge and I absolutely stink of fuel fumes. There's a white smoke on idle and it only started to disapear when it warmed up but then seemed to appear again.

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    • Posted 9th May 2013 at 19:43
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    phillipm

    Seasoned Pro

    Location: Rotherham

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    Post #4
    Yeah, hook it up to the laptop and see what compensations are running when it's idling.

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    Posted 9th May 2013 at 19:44
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    dangti6

    aka JKshooter

    Location: Taunton, Somerset

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    Post #5
    That hopefully reads: hook it up - post the findings and we will decipher LOL

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    • Posted 9th May 2013 at 19:45
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    welshpug!

    Capt Pedantic

    Location: Bigend, Wales.

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    Post #6
    look at the live readings screen, it'll tell you coolant temp, Throttle position, rpm and a few others.

    see if coolant is obviously out, also check throttle readings are correct, smooth etc.

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    Posted 9th May 2013 at 19:51
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    bigbadbowen

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    Location: Winchester

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    Post #7
    Remove what ever you have added and take it for a Dagwood drive dude Yes
    Posted 9th May 2013 at 19:54
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    dangti6

    aka JKshooter

    Location: Taunton, Somerset

    Registered: 15 Jun 2006

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    Post #8
    bigbadbowen wrote:
    Remove what ever you have added and take it for a Dagwood drive dude Yes


    Putting the standard inlet back on changing the wiring over and then back again is a bit too tedious for my liking LOL

    I don't have a current MOT so kicking its head in is off the cards also.

    I'll see what I can gather from the laptop and after that at the retest I will insist the car is thoroughly warmed up I think.

    Still, it shouldn't be like this so something's obviously amiss.

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    • Posted 9th May 2013 at 19:58
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    dangti6

    aka JKshooter

    Location: Taunton, Somerset

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    Post #9
    Here is the live screen with ignition on but not running.



    The coolant temp being 28 is presumably supposed to be high to aid with cold start?

    30 seconds or so after starting.



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    • Posted 10th May 2013 at 17:47
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    coskev

    Seasoned Pro

    Location: Oswestry

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    Post #10
    Never used a aftermarket ecu so can't help soz.

    But don't run it too long with the Co that highNo as you will be risking bore washThumbs down

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    Posted 10th May 2013 at 19:21
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    dangti6

    aka JKshooter

    Location: Taunton, Somerset

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    Post #11
    I've no idea what to look for either LOL

    Would hope it to be a duff sensor - but then there's few. Throttle Position Sensor, Inlet Temperature Sensor and then the green coolant one. Others I couldn't see would affect it.

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    • Posted 10th May 2013 at 19:29
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    ryangti6

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    Location: Pontypool

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    Post #12
    Is your lambda sensor plugged in? Seems odd that running or not it gives the same reading and that number is lower than It should be I would think.

    Can't really comment on the rest other than they appear to make sense, I.e your water temp has increased etc so that would suggest that sensor is working.

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    Posted 10th May 2013 at 19:32
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    dangti6

    aka JKshooter

    Location: Taunton, Somerset

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    Post #13
    There's no lambda sensor fitted. Not supposed to be. A wideband is attachable if desired as there's connectors in my loom for it and a boss welded in ready (currently bunged).

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    • Posted 10th May 2013 at 19:47
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    welshpug!

    Capt Pedantic

    Location: Bigend, Wales.

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    Post #14
    Was that from a cold start? If it was i'd change the sensor, unless you have a heated garage and it really was 28 degrees in there!

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    Posted 10th May 2013 at 20:55
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    dangti6

    aka JKshooter

    Location: Taunton, Somerset

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    Post #15
    That was a cold start on the drive in drizzle.

    I have a spare sensor so worth changing it then to see if it reads any different!

    Idiot question to save my windscreen in rage - what's the recommended way change the sensor without making a massive mess?

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    • Posted 10th May 2013 at 21:04
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    scotzman

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    Location: Dundee

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    Post #16
    dangti6 wrote:
    That was a cold start on the drive in drizzle.

    I have a spare sensor so worth changing it then to see if it reads any different!

    Idiot question to save my windscreen in rage - what's the recommended way change the sensor without making a massive mess?

    do it quickLOL

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    Posted 10th May 2013 at 21:26
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    welshpug!

    Capt Pedantic

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    Post #17
    Unscrew, stick finger in hole, grab new sensor with spare hand,bung it in the hole.

    You could just plug it in without fitting and see if ambient temp is more realistic.

    Would check if its set to the right sensor in the settings.

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    Posted 10th May 2013 at 21:34
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    dangti6

    aka JKshooter

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    Post #18
    Yeah I did think of unplugging and hooking up the spare sensor but fitting it to a similar scenario tomorrow would be more beneficial.

    Fingering the hole it is then. I'll dip a probe in the header to try and see what the actual water temperature is cold.

    Other than this sensor potentially failing since mapping, I can't think of anything else it could really be Unsure

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    • Posted 10th May 2013 at 21:42
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    dangti6

    aka JKshooter

    Location: Taunton, Somerset

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    Post #19
    Changed the sensor and it didn't display much different but perhaps as the temperature rises it becomes more of an issue - but I changed it anyway as I had a spare sensor.

    No instant difference noticeable when warming up - still popped and overfueled but that's cold start for yo I guess. I kept an eye on the temperature gauge on the laptop and as it reached 60 and went into the green zone it was lovely and smooth and didn't smell of fuel as much as it had been.

    I'll take it back early this week to the station and cross my fingers. I'll take the laptop incase I have to make any live adjustments LOL

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    • Posted 11th May 2013 at 19:48
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    welshpug!

    Capt Pedantic

    Location: Bigend, Wales.

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    Post #20
    Have you checked its set for the right sensor? The blue and green vary ever so slightly.

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    Posted 11th May 2013 at 20:04
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    dangti6

    aka JKshooter

    Location: Taunton, Somerset

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    Post #21
    When I pulled the plug off the green one I had a nosey at the laptop and it read 0 so I presume that would confirm it's set as the correct one? Happy to try other suggestions.

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    • Posted 11th May 2013 at 20:31
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    welshpug!

    Capt Pedantic

    Location: Bigend, Wales.

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    Post #22
    Check the settings LOL

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    Posted 11th May 2013 at 21:06
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    dangti6

    aka JKshooter

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    Post #23
    You'll have to excuse my lack of DTASwin knowledge. I'll look tomorrow for something relevant.

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    • Posted 11th May 2013 at 21:07
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    dangti6

    aka JKshooter

    Location: Taunton, Somerset

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    Post #24
    Changing the ECU temp sensor and getting it warm before hand reduced the emmisions but not quite enough. Flashed 4.5 and 6 something I noticed. Better than the 7.66 it was!

    It would appear that leaving it idling or moving it without spirited movements would build up a fair bit of unburnt fuel that would need clearing out as it was popping. Even the first part of the test to clear it out wouldn't clear it out enough.

    Map appears fine, Throttle position settings are all spot on.

    Run out of ideas now LOL

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    • Posted 14th May 2013 at 13:53
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    beez_neez_gt

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    Post #25
    I have a similar problem with mine except i have a standard ECU and a little less CO than yours, 7.3.

    Im picking up a new temp sensor at lunchtime, although the idle and revs seem very fine no noticeable problems there.

    Maybe you do just need a good blast to get the CO below 3.5 from what you have now ?

    Have you had a recent oil change at all as that can make a difference ime.

    So does anyone know of any other things that can cause such high CO readings ?

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    Posted 20th May 2013 at 09:21
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