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Author Subject: Driveshaft Removal
jamiek_uk2000

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Location: Llanelli

Registered: 18 Apr 2009

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Post #1
I've come to remove the half shaft and the two nuts that hold it (the ones that have to be turned 180 to release the shaft) and after loosening one of the nuts, the other will not budge do to me not being able to get a socket fully onto it. I'm just doing to round it if I carry on so just wondering if anyone else has had issues removing it. There looks like there should be a spacer to kick the nut out further but there isn't so can't get the socket all the way on. Will I be able to just stick a nut cracker on it if I can't get it out or round it?

Alternatively is there a way that I can remove the shaft while it is still in the bottom engine mount, the way if feels now is as if I can't remove the mount until the shaft is out, but would removing the speedo housing allow me to remove it or am I just making more work?

Idea's are welcome!

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Posted 27th Apr 2013 at 19:48
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simonjames

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Location: Whitland S.Wales

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Post #2
are you using a deep socket ?

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Posted 27th Apr 2013 at 19:57
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stan_306gti6 Forum Admin

Location: Kent

Registered: 18 Jan 2004

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Post #3
You could remove the bottom mount housing from the rear of the engine and then take the whole lot out from under the car.

This way, you could then tackle the problem once it's on the ground instead of being above your head under the car...

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Posted 27th Apr 2013 at 19:58
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jamiek_uk2000

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Location: Llanelli

Registered: 18 Apr 2009

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Post #4
I am using a deep socket, but the nut is in a slight recess in the mount so it doesn't go all the way into the socket. I've tried to get the mount of but the lugs that slip into it, stop it from being pulled at an angle to remove the shaft, that's why I was wondering if I could remove the speedo drive to give more play to remove the shaft

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Posted 27th Apr 2013 at 20:01
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dangti6

aka JKshooter

Location: Taunton, Somerset

Registered: 15 Jun 2006

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Post #5
Use a spanner - the correct one, or a 6 sided socket. Otherwise resort to vise grips if needs be - buy I'd be surprised if you needed to.

You'll probably find once it's half loosened and the 'hockey' end spins round you'll be undoing with the rachet but just spinning the thing. I that case pull it 'out' again so the end touches against the intermediate bearing.

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    • Posted 27th Apr 2013 at 20:05
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    simonjames

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    Post #6
    mount wont come off unless dowel is sort of 70/30 either more in mount or in block if that makes sense.

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    Posted 27th Apr 2013 at 20:08
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    jamiek_uk2000

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    Post #7
    Ah right, I thought that the mounts dowels were fixed to the block, so your saying that I can knock eh dowel into the engine to allow the mount to come out? Or am I reading into that totally wrong?

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    Posted 27th Apr 2013 at 20:13
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    dangti6

    aka JKshooter

    Location: Taunton, Somerset

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    Post #8
    The dowel in an ideal world would be 50/50.

    Naturally it'll probably end up 60/40 or something and you'll be prising with a bar but not be able to remove the mount as it won't move enough. In that case you could use a small punch or similar to ensure the dowel stays in the block and doesn't come with the mount.

    Or alternatively that it is mostly in the mount so it will come away without being restricted by it.

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    • Posted 27th Apr 2013 at 20:19
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    ryangti6

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    Location: Pontypool

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    Post #9
    I've had this problem in the past but just done as Dan said and get a spanner on it to loosen it then put a socket on.

    Pretty sure the mount won't come off with the shaft in, seem to remember resorting to that in the past to realise I'd wasted my time. If undoing the 11mm nut fails I'd just take a grinder to it tbh.

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    Ryan
    Posted 27th Apr 2013 at 22:10
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    stan_306gti6 Forum Admin

    Location: Kent

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    Post #10
    You could always try spraying some rust penetrant onto where the nut is and leave it for a day to soak before trying to crack it with an 11mm spanner. Smile

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    Posted 28th Apr 2013 at 07:12
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    gti6girl

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    Location: Dartford

    Registered: 19 Feb 2007

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    Post #11
    I always use a 1/4" ratchet for these and it goes straight in to the recess
    Posted 28th Apr 2013 at 09:16
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    welshpug!

    Capt Pedantic

    Location: Bigend, Wales.

    Registered: 27 Mar 2007

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    Post #12
    my 3/8 socket fits just fine, its a standard chrome snapon not a black impact though.

    but I always use a ratchet spanner

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    Posted 28th Apr 2013 at 09:20
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    daveyboy

    aka Jim Davey

    Location: Southampton

    Registered: 01 Oct 2007

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    Post #13
    Yeah, it helps if the socket has thin walls like Snap-On, most cheap sockets have pretty thick walls to get the strength as the metal they are made from is weaker. You could always grind the side of your socket down so you can fit it?

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    Posted 28th Apr 2013 at 09:22
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    jamiek_uk2000

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    Location: Llanelli

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    Post #14
    My lack of deep pockets means that I only have a scummy Halfrauds £99 set. If someone would like to send me their Snap-On set it would be much appreciated. I could pay you in the crusts of sandwiches that I don't eat, or something equally worthless?

    The issue is that it's not the lower one but the upper one, which means that I can't get a grinder in there, I've also tried with the spanner but that does exactly the same and just doesn't have enough of the socket to get purchase to turn it. I've also been dowsing it in Plus Gas and heating holy hell into since Wednesday so that is out the window aswell now.

    New update: The nut is official rotund, due to my impatience combined with my hamfistedness, so if my hangover goes away to the point that I don't feel sick every time I open my eyes today I'm going to try a nut splitter today. Failing that I'm sort of stuck on what to to. I may weld what's left of the shaft to the engine mount and make the car a front-left wheel drive

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    Posted 28th Apr 2013 at 10:21
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    welshpug!

    Capt Pedantic

    Location: Bigend, Wales.

    Registered: 27 Mar 2007

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    Post #15
    remove lower fork, swing engine forwards.

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    Posted 28th Apr 2013 at 10:28
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    jamiek_uk2000

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    Location: Llanelli

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    Post #16
    I did that before I started. It is daunting working on the engine though underneath as your undoing the nut that holds it

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    Posted 28th Apr 2013 at 10:31
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    welshpug!

    Capt Pedantic

    Location: Bigend, Wales.

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    Post #17
    no its not, it just stops it swinging back and forth LOL

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    Posted 28th Apr 2013 at 10:34
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    dangti6

    aka JKshooter

    Location: Taunton, Somerset

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    Post #18
    I've done several of these with the halfords £99 set.

    You're doing it wrong.

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    • Posted 28th Apr 2013 at 10:35
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    jamiek_uk2000

    Seasoned Pro

    Location: Llanelli

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    Post #19
    Well that's what I mean! Every time you turn the spanner/ratchet the whole thing moves, it's a nice bit of weight to be swinging twelve inches from your face

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    Posted 28th Apr 2013 at 10:35
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    jamiek_uk2000

    Seasoned Pro

    Location: Llanelli

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    Post #20
    dangti6 wrote:
    I've done several of these with the halfords £99 set.

    You're doing it wrong.


    I've got no doubt, I am a fool Yes

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    Posted 28th Apr 2013 at 10:37
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    dangti6

    aka JKshooter

    Location: Taunton, Somerset

    Registered: 15 Jun 2006

    Posts: 10,305

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    Post #21
    LOL

    Heaven forbid you need to change your cat any time soon. You'll eff and blind at that too no doubt.

    On the plus side it's a consumable your trying to remove. Once you've split it off/vise gripped it or whatever - it's a cheap item to replace.

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    • Posted 28th Apr 2013 at 10:45
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    jamiek_uk2000

    Seasoned Pro

    Location: Llanelli

    Registered: 18 Apr 2009

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    Post #22
    Nah I've got a mate who is a tyre/exhaust monkey. I paid a tenner to have my whole exhaust and cat changed last time I did it. After attempting changing the manifold on my 205, I just refuse to get involved in exhausts ever again. It's also the same car that made me never want to rebuild a rear beam ever again

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    Posted 28th Apr 2013 at 10:48
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