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Author Subject: Underside refurb
jamiek_uk2000

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Post #1
I'm doing a refurb of the underside of my car and want to replace some bits and bobs on the underside so does anyone know if the following parts are still available from Peugeot or motorfactors:

Exhaust heat shields - Rear, centre and one that passes over fuel tank
Fuel tank brackets

Do I have to have a spare wheel in the car for an MOT, I know some cars come with inflation kits so would this be enough or does it have to come from the factory like that?

I've just had a rebuilt rear beam and the discs protectors aren't painted, do these rust quite quickly since I'm thinking of getting them powder coated or painted, do they get much heat since they are close to the discs?

I also need a range of nuts and bolts to replace the ones that had to be 'persuaded' off, where's the best place to get a variety of what I will need, been scouting Ebay at the moment.

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Posted 5th Apr 2013 at 23:02
mik

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Post #2
I've just got a heatshield from Pug, the one between the centre box and the fuel tank. Although they come plated, what with condensation even if the car is kept in a garage in a garage I've painted them with high-temp paint over etch primer. Doesn't take long and looks good. Make sure the edges are not too sharp and are well coated as that is where it starts.

I got brake disc shields from Pug in late 2011. Also painted them with high temp paint (over etch primer). Still look clean.

Fuel tank brackets are still available surprisingly expensive from Pug for a couple of bits of bent tube - almost £100 for the 2 bits. So I decided to refurb rather than replace. I've only done one of mine so far as the other has a seized nut that I'll need to deal with in due course. It was very rusty and pitted, but it cleaned up OK and is back on the car (done last weekend) with stone chip over Bilt Hamber Electrox zinc primer. I've also sprayed it with Dynax UC clear wax before putting it back on the car.

I've got loads of nuts and bolts from Pug, they aren't that expensive and they will be the right ones.

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Posted 5th Apr 2013 at 23:08
jamiek_uk2000

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Post #3
It's worth giving them a once over then, is that VHT paint that good then? I've got a second hand Jetex system I bought off Roland that could do with a once over and wondering if that paint will hold for that long?

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306 GTi 6 Diablo - Being resurrected! Project Thread

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Posted 5th Apr 2013 at 23:15
coskev

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Post #4
Fuel tank heat shield is circa £80Thumbs down

I'm only refitting the very front floorpan heatsheild on mine when I build it back up, tank one has been cleaned and sprayedWink

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Posted 5th Apr 2013 at 23:26
jamiek_uk2000

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Post #5
For £80 I think that it is clean and spray FTW Thumbs up

Why are you not refitting the rear, will that not wreck the paintwork on the car after a while?

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306 GTi 6 Diablo - Being resurrected! Project Thread

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Posted 5th Apr 2013 at 23:32
welshpug!

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Location: Bigend, Wales.

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Post #6
Yup, and the gearstick, especially with a ss exhaust.

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Posted 6th Apr 2013 at 09:43
coskev

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Post #7
jamiek_uk2000 wrote:
For £80 I think that it is clean and spray FTW Thumbs up

Why are you not refitting the rear, will that not wreck the paintwork on the car after a while?


Might do,but got a couple of mounting points snapped and my heat shield was a right grotty thing,so can't be arsed with it!Thumbs up

welshpug! wrote:
Yup, and the gearstick, especially with a ss exhaust.


Might knacker a standard gearstick yeah as its a plastic ball,got a Compbrake one in mine and have run with no CAT shield on for months and the grease is ok in the baseThumbs up

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Posted 6th Apr 2013 at 10:44
beez_neez_gt

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Post #8
How long do you really want them to last ?

If like me you want them to last as good as forever then you could paint them in 2k epoxy car primer and 2k top coat paint in the colour you want. Unless you have an air fed mask coming from a dry compressor its best get them done at a local painting place for health reasons. Iv had every part done this way for many reasons. Nothing out there will outlast epoxy primer, used by industries etc, many classic car restoration people and owners use it now more than any other primer. The bonus part is epoxy is salt proof so like mine will be used over winter when weather isnt too bad that is.

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Posted 6th Apr 2013 at 10:56
mik

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Post #9
The shield I got that goes between the centre box and the fuel tank heat shield was £20-ish (part no 1723 69). I've worked on the studs over a period of months and they are loosened off except for the 2 rearmost ones which won't play ball so will be cut off and new studs welded on.

I've used VHT before on exhausts and it stayed on really well. This time I've used another brand over etch primer for the centre section, and ordinary satin black over etch primer for the rear box. We'll see how it lasts!

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Posted 6th Apr 2013 at 11:06
matt evans

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Post #10
Key is proper preparation with all bits, stuff like the brake disc backing plates will be fine (assuming you have new ones) scuffed up, degreased, etch primed and painted in a tough silver paint. At least the grotty brake dust can be washed off easier.

For heat shields, you could get them glass bead blasted like I did my exhaust manifold and heat shield, then etch prime and silver paint again.

You could go to the lengths of powder coating heat shields, if you have someone local and cheapish.

Again with the VHT, prep and etch before hand and you'll be fine. The American version of the VHT is the best quality that I found and goes on lovely.

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Posted 6th Apr 2013 at 15:55
jamiek_uk2000

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Post #11
Will the powder coating hold on with the heat from the exhaust then? I've got a company that I've done work for before doing some powder coating for free for me so doing the disc guards and bars for the fuel tank on Monday. I'm going to give the heat shields a once over with the cleaning disc tomorrow to see how they come up

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205 GTi Red - G939 RTU - Died!
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Posted 6th Apr 2013 at 16:54
mik

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Post #12
Powder coat doesn't hang on well if the coating is breached, I've seen new stuff out of the box with the powder coat all bubbly. The Bilt Hamber Etchweld data sheet says that it helps powder coat adhesion:

http://www.bilthamber.com/media/downloads/13/etchweld_tech.pdf

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Posted 6th Apr 2013 at 17:47
jamiek_uk2000

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Post #13
Well I've just been speaking to the boy that is doing the coating and they use the same process the casings for the generators that they make (100kva upwards) and they seem to fair well in all conditions and under quite a bit of heat so I'm going for it. If it's not that good then I'll get them redone in the future but for free I can't really argue!

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205 GTi Red - G939 RTU - Died!
306 GTi 6 Diablo - Being resurrected! Project Thread

Looking for:
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Posted 6th Apr 2013 at 17:59
mik

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Post #14
I have the same attitude to beer. I'll even stoop to Fosters if it's free!

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Posted 6th Apr 2013 at 18:01
coskev

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Post #15
Powder coating is fine aslong as the metal is prepped correctly, ie totally rust freeYes

Also I've found cast metals like trailing arms on the rear beam will rust pretty quick under powdercoat if they are only shotblasted as prep/rust removal, they need soaking in deox-c or dipping in a hot acid bath to remove the small bits of rust from the poresThumbs up

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Posted 6th Apr 2013 at 20:09
jamiek_uk2000

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Post #16
Well Andy (Jord294) rebuilt my beam and I'm sure with the amount that he has done, he as got the technique nailed to a tee. The disc guards are BNIB so should be rust free!

The rear beam is going back on tomorrow, I should really have taken some photos and put a little project thread up but since I don't have a camera phone I haven't bothered. I may crack the digital out and at least show the re-assembly. It's practically what Coskev and Mik are doing, I'm at almost the same stage as Mik actually maybe a day or two's work behind.

For reference, if anyone is doing a Diablo underside refurb then the Dulux weather shield in Monarch red is an almost perfect match

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205 GTi Red - G939 RTU - Died!
306 GTi 6 Diablo - Being resurrected! Project Thread

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Posted 6th Apr 2013 at 20:20
beez_neez_gt

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Post #17
Powder coating is even better if it has the primer powder coated added beforehand, as well as getting rid of every spec of rust.

Etch does not do well with a lot of heat so where ever you apply it remember that it wont get too hot else it will peel.

Also iv used some of that VHT paint and iirc it never said anything about using etching primer first, i guess if its for parts getting very hot it wont work.

If your getting powder coating for free then go ahead i would but if they do primer powder coating go for that so it will last longer before peeling and rusting under the coating happens. This happens if its cast and not fully rust free aswell as any small amount of damage happens to it, water will get in and thats where it starts. Although powder coating does fill in the rust pits you get after rust removal but that can easily be sorted when using paint.


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Pug fee`ver,

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Black 306 GTI 6 Standard, was 60k mileage, bargain!!

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Posted 7th Apr 2013 at 16:09
jamiek_uk2000

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Post #18
Have you got rid of the heatshields and used exhaust wrap instead? Hows that working for you and how much did it cost? I know that wrap isn't cheap and that you may need quite a bit

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205 GTi Red - G939 RTU - Died!
306 GTi 6 Diablo - Being resurrected! Project Thread

Looking for:
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Posted 7th Apr 2013 at 16:46
beez_neez_gt

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Post #19
I still have the heat sheild its under the fuel tank in black which makes it hard to see. I used exhaust wrap to help reduce the heat around the beam areas to reduce any damage to the beam etc just in case.

Im getting a stainless steel full system in time so it will be neat and shiny eventually and last.

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Pug fee`ver,

Pick a Bogey, buy a Pug.

Black 306 GTI 6 Standard, was 60k mileage, bargain!!

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Posted 7th Apr 2013 at 16:50
jamiek_uk2000

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Post #20
So it's just at the beam, not the whole system?

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205 GTi Red - G939 RTU - Died!
306 GTi 6 Diablo - Being resurrected! Project Thread

Looking for:
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Posted 7th Apr 2013 at 16:54
beez_neez_gt

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Post #21
Yes i think you can just see the steel tie wraps half way under the fuel tank up to the hanging part of it, i wouldnt do the whole system as they are known to rust the exhaust away etc.

I wish i had of painted the shield in silver to match other parts and reflect more heat away from fuel tank but its all done, so will leave it for now.

As for the beam, well the protection is there as beam was painted using zinc primer and enamel top coats not 2k paints, this was done before i know more about paints etc. I have another more modified beam set to go on once i get it sorted out, that will be my track beam and the one above is my fast road beam, it will have 2 degree camber and a larger bars etc.

________________________________________

Pug fee`ver,

Pick a Bogey, buy a Pug.

Black 306 GTI 6 Standard, was 60k mileage, bargain!!

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Posted 7th Apr 2013 at 17:05
jamiek_uk2000

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Post #22
Ah yes, now I actually use my eyes like a normal person I can see where it stops.

I know very little about paints. I do know that the primer I have used on the underside of my car is about 100 a tub (I had it for free) and is what they use to prime the metal on Wembley stadium before it was painted. I also learned that I should have been using breathing apparatus when applying it, it was outside though so I hope that has helped slightly. It came in two parts and when you mix them it heats up and has gone as hard as a mix of mythril and adamantium.

I've just gone for VTS beams and may go for a hybrid ARB at some point, going to see what my ratio of road/track use is since I use my van most of the time, then decide on how undrivable in normal use I am going to make it

________________________________________

205 GTi Red - G939 RTU - Died!
306 GTi 6 Diablo - Being resurrected! Project Thread

Looking for:
VTS P1 Rack
PR1.2 16"
Posted 7th Apr 2013 at 17:51
beez_neez_gt

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Post #23
If its a two part ie 2k then it will be tough enough to last a long time. I always use a mask when ever painting on cars so if you do oat again try and get yourself a mask cause you never know, you only have one set of lungs.

Sounds like a nice project done well, suspension is all about peoples own prefrences, depends how you drive etc.

________________________________________

Pug fee`ver,

Pick a Bogey, buy a Pug.

Black 306 GTI 6 Standard, was 60k mileage, bargain!!

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Posted 7th Apr 2013 at 22:23
jamiek_uk2000

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Post #24
Yeah I learnt that as soon as I finished. I was putting the lid on the tin when my father called round and asked where my mask was, I asked what mask and then he explained. I also now know what 2k paints are LOL

It's been done to the best of my ability anyway, being a plumber/electrician I'm quite good hands on and got plenty of tools for the job but since I don't work with cars all the time like half the people on here are I'm not fully clued up on everything. It's just so handy that there are so many people on the forum that are willing to help and explain how to do things or offer services doing things. It's also worked out that I'm buying almost nothing brand new, it's all second hand parts from the parts section. I love a bloody good deal!

________________________________________

205 GTi Red - G939 RTU - Died!
306 GTi 6 Diablo - Being resurrected! Project Thread

Looking for:
VTS P1 Rack
PR1.2 16"
Posted 7th Apr 2013 at 22:34
jamiek_uk2000

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Post #25
mik wrote:


I've got loads of nuts and bolts from Pug, they aren't that expensive and they will be the right ones.



When you say you got a load of nuts and bolts from Peugeot, how did you go about getting them. Just ask for a pack or what?

________________________________________

205 GTi Red - G939 RTU - Died!
306 GTi 6 Diablo - Being resurrected! Project Thread

Looking for:
VTS P1 Rack
PR1.2 16"
Posted 7th Apr 2013 at 22:37

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