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Author Subject: Anyone know what this is
tony1991

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Post #1
Still not got my Rallye running still no fuel, this is my last day of trying myself, just found this at the back of the fuse box can any one tell me what it is

Thanks

tony1991 has attached the following image:

Posted 17th Feb 2013 at 09:34
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

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Post #2
looks like a mini relay of some sort, not o.e for a 306.afaik.

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Posted 17th Feb 2013 at 09:51
dangti6

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Post #3
Will probably be Bitron stamped. There's a couple like that in that engine bay fuse box.

Have you got power to the fuel pump?

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  • Posted 17th Feb 2013 at 09:54
    tony1991

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    Post #4
    Yer I'm reading 10.5 v on muliti meter that should be enough shouldn't it
    Posted 17th Feb 2013 at 09:58
    tony1991

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    Post #5
    It is a fuse and it says bitron on it I don't have a continuity through the two big pins on it so am I right in saying the fuse has blown
    Posted 17th Feb 2013 at 10:06
    bigbadbowen

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    Post #6
    Dude I think you need to take the ecu, transponder (under the dash above centre console) and chip out of your working rallye and put them all in your not working rallye to see if it then fires up ? Chip is in the key ?

    Shouldn't take to long and this will eliminate locked ecu and immobiliser problems once and for all Thumbs up
    Posted 17th Feb 2013 at 10:21
    tony1991

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    Post #7
    I have done this and my red one still runs fine but still nothing from the black one
    Posted 17th Feb 2013 at 10:26
    armzsc6

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    Post #8
    This is probably the wrong thread to comment this but have you got an earth at the pump? And if so then just run a switched ignition live to the pump and it will run... If the injectors don't pulse then it's an immobiliser fault...

    If you were closer I'd come have a Looky for you I hate to see a dead wallye :/.

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    Posted 17th Feb 2013 at 10:38
    welshpug!

    Capt Pedantic

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    Post #9
    fuel pump should get battery voltage, i.e 12.5+.

    try a different battery.

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    Posted 17th Feb 2013 at 10:38
    tony1991

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    Post #10
    But last times checked I wasn't getting a spark so I need a spark aswell
    Posted 17th Feb 2013 at 10:51
    tony1991

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    Post #11
    Brand new battery out my Luther Rallye well as good as brand new less than 6 months old
    Posted 17th Feb 2013 at 10:53
    welshpug!

    Capt Pedantic

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    Post #12
    ecu getting power?

    tried a new crank sensor?

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    Posted 17th Feb 2013 at 11:10
    tony1991

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    Post #13
    How would I tell if ECU was getting power I have all lights on dash an turns over, I check my Luther Rallye and I'm getting same volts at the pump 10.5 but on my coils I'm getting 0.6 on my working and nothing on the black one
    Posted 17th Feb 2013 at 11:20
    welshpug!

    Capt Pedantic

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    Post #14
    with a multimeter, turn ignition on, injectors and coils should have 12 volts.

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    Posted 17th Feb 2013 at 11:27
    tony1991

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    Post #15
    Have nothing at all to the injectors or coils
    Posted 17th Feb 2013 at 11:56
    Chris28190

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    Post #16
    It's a plug.

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    Posted 17th Feb 2013 at 13:29
    tony1991

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    Post #17
    I have power to the relay but not to the fuel cut off surely I should have power to one cable at the fuel shut off
    Posted 17th Feb 2013 at 13:57
    tony1991

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    Post #18
    I have no power to the fuses on the left side of fuse box in engine bay
    Posted 17th Feb 2013 at 15:10
    welshpug!

    Capt Pedantic

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    Post #19
    2, 8, 11 and 15 on the relay should be battery lives.

    14 is switched live.

    looking at the diagram the coils injectors and fuel pump will only be live if it can see crank.

    you have checked the timing belt right?

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    Posted 17th Feb 2013 at 18:47
    tony1991

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    Post #20
    The pins line up fine on the pulleys, I got lives to the pins I should have on the relay
    Posted 17th Feb 2013 at 18:49
    welshpug!

    Capt Pedantic

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    Post #21
    ok, so when you crank do you get battery voltage at injectors, coils, and fuel pump?

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    Posted 17th Feb 2013 at 19:27
    welshpug!

    Capt Pedantic

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    Post #22
    other checks you can do.

    pin 52 of ecu, ignition off, should see 12v+

    pin 13 with ignition on should see 12v+

    pin 35 with engine running should see 12v+


    pin 36 and 54 should be earth.

    ________________________________________

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    Bring on the Trumpets.

    Posted 17th Feb 2013 at 19:35
    tony1991

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    Post #23
    I think tbh I'm going to call a auto electrician tomorrow, I'm done with spending my time on it but really want it running
    Posted 17th Feb 2013 at 20:13
    tvrfan007

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    Post #24
    Sounds to me like you've got an earth up the s**tter somewhere. Cranking means you got 12V to the starter motor and not a lot else, starting requires 12V in lots of places.

    Are your inner wing earths in good nick? there's one underneath the battery box and one in front and below it.

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    Posted 18th Feb 2013 at 08:40
    Niall

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    Post #25
    check the two earths on top of the gearbox round by the VSS. One is a green and yellow cable held down with a 13mm and one is a thicker black wire held down with a 13mm
    Posted 20th Feb 2013 at 18:07

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