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Author Subject: Argh Heater matrix
Niall

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Post #26
Oh and back to the main point, if your heater matrix is shot (sounds like it is!) then you could try krisB to get it replaced if your not confident to do it your self? He did mine on my old 1.8 and was done by just after lunch!
Posted 11th Nov 2012 at 18:59
davewagon

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Location: Corby / Northampton

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Post #27
Just been out to get the car up to temp and have parked it up for the evening/rest of week now.

Will check in the morning whether the coolant system is still pressurised, this means head gasket failure yes?

On the ten minute drive, the car didn't display any symptoms it did this morning, the heaters worked well and didn't blow greasy condensation on the windscreen and there were no more dribbles into the passenger footwell. Both the water temp and oil temp rose to 75/90 degrees eventually and stayed there.
No miss firing.

I had one thought, surely if the heater matrix had a hole in it now, wouldn't a coolant system that was staying pressurised not just force its way out through the hole in the matrix? (all over my passenger footwell?)

Any thoughts

Thanks guys,
Dave

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Posted 11th Nov 2012 at 21:49
Niall

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Post #28
yeah of course it will find the weakest point which in your case, sounds like your matrix. saying that, unless it was a huge hole, it would still pressurise the top hose. Either that or would just p**s out from behind your dash like someone holding their thumb over the end of a hose lol
Posted 11th Nov 2012 at 22:51
davewagon

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Post #29
Well opened the rad cap this morning and no pressure

(However I could hear a slight pressure leak last night when I stopped the car so maybe it had leaked away?)

Pretty much all coolant was gone though so will need a refill before carrying on

I left the car today, although had to start it to jump the battery in my replacement car, no miss firing from cold.

What should my next step be

Bypass the heater matrix to get a potential hole out of the system?
Then refill and bleed radiator and start to confirm whether or not the HG is going ?


Could the car still be driven, if I fill the rad and leave the cap loose so as not to build up loads of pressure, and keep an eye on levels and temps etc ??

Dave

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Posted 12th Nov 2012 at 09:27
mattgti6phase2

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Post #30
Halfrauds do a hose with a bender spring inside it. i'll upoad a pic for u later. This is the bypass a method i used. Much tidier than joins.

My heater matrix was fooked what a pain in the arse pulling the dash out.

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Posted 12th Nov 2012 at 11:13
davewagon

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Post #31
Cheers mate

Not looking forward to it either to be honest, although if the HG has gone it'll be bye bye car anyways so I won't have to bother lol

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Posted 12th Nov 2012 at 13:21
mattgti6phase2

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Post #32
It's the amount of nuts and bolts that have to be removed that's a real pain. Actually changing the heater matrix takes about 30 secs LOL

Oh and the gromit that goes on the heater matrix is a c**t!!!

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Posted 12th Nov 2012 at 13:40
davewagon

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Post #33
mattgti6phase2 wrote:
Halfrauds do a hose with a bender spring inside it. i'll upoad a pic for u later. This is the bypass a method i used.


Mind looking up that pipe for me chap?

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Posted 12th Nov 2012 at 20:33
mattgti6phase2

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Post #34
Will send you the pic on facebook bud, I cant be bothered with photobucket atm.

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Posted 12th Nov 2012 at 23:41
Rich E Forum Admin

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Post #35
welshpug! wrote:
no it wont, just go into any motorfactor and buy some tube of the appropriate size.

I've got a bottle of radweld in my system currently, and it's doing a perfectly good job of holding back my heater matrix leak.

Of course it isn't a long term fix, but there's nothing wrong with it as a stop gap measure.

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Posted 13th Nov 2012 at 01:01
daver6

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Post #36
Rich E wrote:
welshpug! wrote:
no it wont, just go into any motorfactor and buy some tube of the appropriate size.

I've got a bottle of radweld in my system currently, and it's doing a perfectly good job of holding back my heater matrix leak.

Of course it isn't a long term fix, but there's nothing wrong with it as a stop gap measure.


There we go, K-seal and radweld will do what they say on the tin... bottle! As said, perfect get out of jail free card until you pluck up the courage to replace the matrix

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Posted 13th Nov 2012 at 13:39
welshpug!

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Post #37
given its p**sING out, it wont work Wink

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Posted 13th Nov 2012 at 16:53
davewagon

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Post #38
Don't suppose there is a 'gasket weld' that would do until I can get that repaired too LOL

Matt, Halfauds don't seem to do that hose anymore, cheers though, I think I'll just get some silicon hose for the time being

It only needs to last a few weeks lol.

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Posted 13th Nov 2012 at 18:46
buzzbrightyear

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Post #39
is your head gasket f**ked?
pressurizing the system and popping leaks from weak points?

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Posted 13th Nov 2012 at 20:59
davewagon

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Post #40
I don't know yet really, the car showed no sign of spluttering or misfiring from cold start up and from the briefest of looks it didn't appear to be bubbling through the rad cap.

But before I check, I want to bypass the matrix (temporarily) - refill the radiator and start the car again to pressurise the rad system.

I'll then know whether the HG is going (don't think it's fully f**ked yet? hopefully).

If it's buggered, there'll be no need to replace the matrix as I'll be chopping the car.

Weekend job though, as I need to find a suitable pipe/hose to bypass first...

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Posted 13th Nov 2012 at 21:10
stan_306gti6 Forum Admin

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Post #41
Why get rid of the car if the heater matrix is knackered? Just replace it over a weekend...Thumbs up

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Posted 13th Nov 2012 at 21:26
davewagon

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Post #42
stan_306gti6 wrote:
Why get rid of the car if the heater matrix is knackered? Just replace it over a weekend...Thumbs up


I might not have made myself clear, I could maybe have a crack at a replacement matrix.

But I'll not bother if the HG is going/gone as I won't be forking out £££ for a HG repair on a car worth £900-1,000 (with all the enthusiasm in the word, I would not be attempting that myself on the cheap lol)

Only then to have to f**k about pulling a dash out myself (not to mention a replacement rear beam which has a heck of a lot of play, and 2 new tyres on it too, and a c**ting lightbulb that popped the other day)

I don't have the love for it at the moment Sad

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Posted 13th Nov 2012 at 21:50
jonnie205

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Post #43
If you can find a suitae matrix bypass host you can just blank the outlets on the engine, same thing,
Posted 13th Nov 2012 at 21:56
davewagon

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Post #44
Blank with what?

Does anyone know a suitable hose that will do the job, pricing up all the friggin little bits on ebay is a pain as I can't seem to find a joiner for silicone hose of the same length.

Would a super flexi piece be good enough?

Dave

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Posted 13th Nov 2012 at 22:20
swiftyboi006

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Post #45
Go on the parts for sale someone was selling a homemade bypass a wile back, maybe it didnt sellDunno

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Posted 14th Nov 2012 at 07:37
davewagon

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Post #46
Its okay, i've ordered some silicon bungs for the time being ...

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Posted 14th Nov 2012 at 08:03
davewagon

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Post #47
Friggin hell that was more involved than I thought it would be lol

but got some bungs on now...



Lost a shed load of coolant LOL
Will fill it up and see about getting the headgasket tested soon.

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Posted 17th Nov 2012 at 15:09
stan_306gti6 Forum Admin

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Post #48
Dave - I'm thinking the reason you don't have much coolant left is because you lost a lot yesterday when you fitted the bungs where the matrix attaches to. Yes

I would suggest refilling the coolant and bleeding the whole thing again and then see if you have any issues after that. Wink

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Posted 18th Nov 2012 at 14:29
mattgti6phase2

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Post #49
This.

And the noise you were hearing is the pressure slowly being released from the over flow under the pressure cap as everything is cooling down.

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Team: 40.2 MPG Smile
5 x a 306 owner!
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midweek madness Tee hee
Posted 18th Nov 2012 at 14:40
davewagon

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Post #50
Thanks for the help chaps.

Today, refilled the radiator, bled it at the bleed points (apart from the heater bleed point as i've bypassed that now).

Decided to just start the car from cold, with the rad cap off to see what was happening...

Pretty instantly, fluid in the rad rose up and overflowed into a steady stream onto the driveway, and I guess would have kept on going until the thing emptied. (Oh and me silicone bungs seem to be doing the trick!).

So I'm inclined to think now that I can confirm the the HG seems to have gone, and is blowing combustion gasses into the cooling system, with the rad cap back on I assume it would just over pressurise and damage something (oh yeah, like a heater matrix LOL )

Time to get some quotes lol (needed cambelt doing in 10k miles anyway)

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Posted 18th Nov 2012 at 16:45

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