Been lurking on here for a while and thought it was about time I shared the fruits of my labour. She was a Pistonheads bargin at £800, with cage, seats, 3 sets of wheels and tyres and Gaz GHA all round. Spent the first three months of this year, servicing, putting it on a diet and sorting out all the MSA stuff.







Now sporting eccentric top mounts



Next on the list is; remove PAS and fit electric, remove ABS and lose some more weight, it was corner weighted at 1016kg, which I thought was a bit hefty. Thanks for looking.

Not sure yet, I know its possible speaking to Andy Gwynne (Gwynne Speed Rally School). I'll let you know, he did tell me the name, but I can't remember it. It's one for over the winter.

i have an electric 106 power steering set up on a 306 with all pipes if you want to come and take it off the car in coventry you can have it all for 25 squids....

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306 less for first time in nearly 7 years. Lets keep it that way... please refuse any offers i make to buy your 306 ( doctors letter supplied by request)

Marmite and cheese sandwiches anyone???

Burns and Mcrae will be forever missed.
x box "yippeekayaymofo"

I'd pay a bit more if you took it off the car and sent it to me

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R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.

Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
Engine mount/chassis repair
Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION
Harness bars

It was up for £1500, but he'd had little interest and needed it gone. It's been a great car for £800 and probably worth that in parts if it went wrong.

Family stuff has put my plans on hold for while and I'd not driven the car since last October until last weekend at Lydden, so less for the push button start, shift light and a good once over, everything else has been on hold.



I have a few pictures from my build last year, they aren't great but here they are if anyone is interested.









This is the car at Lydden last weekend. Unfortunately the second race ended early when I got caught out on the brakes and ended up in the gravel at Devils Elbow.



I race with and against the other Services.

Sorry, it wasn't showing on anyone's on my phone. Random!

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Nothing to see here

Ah, is that the RAFMSA? I wish I'd known he was desperate to get it gone, I would have bitten his arm off at a grand. I had a couple of chats with him, there's some pics of it on here somewhere doing a trackday at Mallory, iirc.

I was looking at sprints at the time, and with the mods done it'd be in modified and not too competitive there, so I bought a 1400 Nova for about what you paid for this cos I had a few nice bits to put on it.

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"Talking about badgers is life. Anything before or after is just waiting" Steve McBadger

Transversa aurigatio transcurro arvae.

That'll be the DIY flocking I assume you're referring to.

Just found this online.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=384740&stc=1&d=1273566372

and this 110% commitment at Devils Elbow, shame it didn't work out.



say goodbye to 1x R888

Looks good, makes me want to get some more work done on my track / race car! If only funds allowed

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Rallye Race Car

A ramp helps but is doable under the car on axle stands. It's a little time consuming but thats probably because I wanted to make sure I removed the right bits and finding where everything goes.

The pipework was straight forward, you just cut it out in sections with wire cutters, I started at the back and worked forward. Remove the rear proportioning valve held on with 3 bolts, the third is behind the gater of the damper. At the rear hubs, trim the pipe back to the nut and use a six sided socket to remove the line from the calliper.

At the front just up from the nearside wishbone the pipe is bolted to the bulkhead, remove these. In the engine bay, remove the battery and ECU. At the ABS pump there are 6 pipes, three go across the bulkhead (2 to the master cylinder and 1 to the drivers calliper. Of the other 3, 2 go down to the passenger footwell where they are bolted to the bulkhead before going rearward and the final pipe goes to the nearside calliper.

The pump is on a bracket held in with 3 bolts.

The loom connects to the main harness just in front of the fusebox with 2 connectors. Power comes from the fusebox itself, the whole thing come apart and just unplug the wires. There are two earths, one to the pump and one from the loom. The rest of the loom goes to all 4 corners and its just a case of feeding it out. The big 50A fuse comes out with it.

Once removed the car started as normal. Hope this helps.

Yeh, it was in there middle of last year-ish. You might be interested in this then https://www.armymotorsports.co.uk

Bit more progress. Dropped the beam which was easy.



Started fitting the solid mounts and I was surprised at what a good fit they were. Then I hit problems. I couldn't remove this bolt and therefore couldn't remove the front beam mount. I know it does not need to come all the way out, but it didn't come out far enough.



Options; either cut the bolt off and replace it from the other side and/or rebuild the beam.



I have checked the ride height with a dummy shock and they're within a nats bollock of each other. My first though was that the ride height wasn't set correctly.

They'll be going back if they snap!