displaying posts 1 to 25 of 38

Pages (2): [1] 2

Author Subject: Lowering by 30 mm
martin

Regular

Location: Glasgow

Registered: 15 Jan 2010

Posts: 103

Status: Offline

Post #1
Afternoon guys

I'm looking to lower the 306 (i know this has been covered somewhat so apologies for covering old ground)

Heard the rear beam is a right pig of a job to get done ... does anyone know how roughly much I'd be looking at to get this done via a garage?

cheers !
Martin Thumbs up
Posted 24th Jul 2012 at 16:57
footah212

Senior User

Location: Paisley

Registered: 16 Sep 2010

Posts: 861

Status: Offline

Post #2
martin wrote:
Afternoon guys

I'm looking to lower the 306 (i know this has been covered somewhat so apologies for covering old ground)

Heard the rear beam is a right pig of a job to get done ... does anyone know how roughly much I'd be looking at to get this done via a garage?

cheers !
Martin Thumbs up


Eccosse will do it for £100.

It can be a real pig of a job if they have never been off before.

Having just read your post about oil changing I would defo pay someone to do it for you.

There may be other pug specialists in the Glasgow area who could do it cheaper.

________________________________________

Phase 2 Blaze GTi6

PS3 - Black Ops 2

Engine crane for hire Renfrewshire
Posted 24th Jul 2012 at 18:28
martin

Regular

Location: Glasgow

Registered: 15 Jan 2010

Posts: 103

Status: Offline

Post #3
cheers footah .. thats actually not too shabby for ecosse! i need to get a set of eibachs for the front aswell.

is it worth getting solid rear mounts when doing this?
Posted 24th Jul 2012 at 18:47
footah212

Senior User

Location: Paisley

Registered: 16 Sep 2010

Posts: 861

Status: Offline

Post #4
martin wrote:
cheers footah .. thats actually not too shabby for ecosse! i need to get a set of eibachs for the front aswell.

is it worth getting solid rear mounts when doing this?


Opinions vary on this.

Mine is that if your using the car on the road then just re-new with standard ones.

For track work then some people say solids are better.

Mine goes on track and is used on the roads so I have re-newed the standard ones

Peace

________________________________________

Phase 2 Blaze GTi6

PS3 - Black Ops 2

Engine crane for hire Renfrewshire
Posted 24th Jul 2012 at 18:54
footah212

Senior User

Location: Paisley

Registered: 16 Sep 2010

Posts: 861

Status: Offline

Post #5
footah212 wrote:
martin wrote:
cheers footah .. thats actually not too shabby for ecosse! i need to get a set of eibachs for the front aswell.

is it worth getting solid rear mounts when doing this?


Opinions vary on this.

Mine is that if your using the car on the road then just re-new with standard ones.

For track work then some people say solids are better.

Mine goes on track and is used on the roads so I have re-need the standard ones

Peace


Changing the mounts ain't really Hard but you do need to have a decent tool kit etc

________________________________________

Phase 2 Blaze GTi6

PS3 - Black Ops 2

Engine crane for hire Renfrewshire
Posted 24th Jul 2012 at 18:59
martin

Regular

Location: Glasgow

Registered: 15 Jan 2010

Posts: 103

Status: Offline

Post #6
Afternoon chaps ! Thumbs up

Just been quoted £240 (inc vat) by eccosse for fitting set of front Eibachs and lowering the rear torsion bar by 30mm to match - i don't think that's to shabby at all?

I'm quite worried that once this is lowered i'm gona run into problems with rubbing issues and being a harsh ride quiality - I know loads of flok on here have had it done so would be interested to find out your thoughts? Hmm
Posted 3rd Aug 2012 at 13:54
eliotrw

Seasoned Pro

Location: Southwark

Registered: 18 Jul 2010

Posts: 4,864

Status: Offline

Post #7
A few guys on here lower the the bar by 25mm instead when using eibachs i've noticed.
Might help the ride.
Although ive never read a single complaint about b8's and eibachs on here ride wise.

________________________________________

Ex- Phase 3 China GTi-6 T-Reg
Posted 3rd Aug 2012 at 14:00
martin

Regular

Location: Glasgow

Registered: 15 Jan 2010

Posts: 103

Status: Offline

Post #8
Thanks Elliot - might be worth asking Eccose about 25mm instead of 30mm prior to getting the job done ..

I will be running on 16's so i'm hoping I wont have any issues with rubbing or loosing fillings from my teeth due to the harshness of the ride.

Keep telling myself that 30mm is nothing hardly seems worth the cost !





Posted 3rd Aug 2012 at 15:30
daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

Location: Southampton

Registered: 01 Oct 2007

Posts: 8,648

Status: Offline

Post #9
Depends on wheels of course but if you carry rear passengers or use the car hard on lumpy roads you'll very likely get a bit of rubbage on the plastic rear inner arches. This is annoying rather than damaging really, I'd reccommend if lowering that you take the opportunity to fit larger 21mm bars at the rear, these will help to stop the back end blowing through all its available travel so fast and will be a better match for the Eibachs up front.

________________________________________

R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.

Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
Engine mount/chassis repair
Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION
Harness bars
Posted 3rd Aug 2012 at 15:42
martin

Regular

Location: Glasgow

Registered: 15 Jan 2010

Posts: 103

Status: Offline

Post #10
Thanks davyboy i'll bear this in mind .. how do you mean by larger 21mm bars at the rear and back end blowing through? (sorry if i'm being thick)
Posted 3rd Aug 2012 at 15:50
jord294

Seasoned Pro

Location: somewhere in north wales

Registered: 09 Nov 2009

Posts: 3,110

Status: Offline

Post #11
All very well getting the car lowered, but depends how they lower it.

They might not be able to just pull the bars out, they may pull arm and bar out. With that they are disturbing the seal.

Then a not too far in the future you'll find you start having issues.

If you can afford, get some new bearings and seals fitted

________________________________________

FRESHLY RE-FURBISHED GTI BEAMS
FITTING AND LOWERING AVAILABLE.
ALL AXLES BUILT USING GENUINE PEUGEOT PARTS

IF I'M NOT HERE, IT ONLY MEANS ONE THING.... I'M SOMEWHERE ELSE!
Posted 3rd Aug 2012 at 15:52
eliotrw

Seasoned Pro

Location: Southwark

Registered: 18 Jul 2010

Posts: 4,864

Status: Offline

Post #12
Takes jord's advice as he knows his shizzle. Razz

Basically with 21mm bars it will be stiffer and less prone to bottoming out.

If you are up for 21mm bars they are usually about 90 used on here or you can get them from peugeot (I'll get the part number when im home)
and a pair is 210 quid. which imo is a bargain cosidering spoox sell copys at 350 quid a pair!

________________________________________

Ex- Phase 3 China GTi-6 T-Reg
Posted 3rd Aug 2012 at 15:59
eddiebeano

Senior User

Location: Edinburgh

Registered: 31 Dec 2008

Posts: 715

Status: Offline

Post #13
^agreed, ecosse do it the easy way which is why I never bothered. They quoted me 120 to lower mine, so 120 to change 2 front dampers? Seems a bit steep. If you're willing to travel to Edinburgh, jsa666 [seb] on here does a really good job.

________________________________________

team: Stealth Ninja
Posted 3rd Aug 2012 at 16:00
daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

Location: Southampton

Registered: 01 Oct 2007

Posts: 8,648

Status: Offline

Post #14
Ok, the torsion bars at the back are 20mm as standard (Someone WILL correct me if I'm wrong) going to a thicker 21mm bar effectively stiffens up the rear by 25% (Again, someone WILL be on to correct my aproximations)

Now, the standard rear setup bottoms out easily when loaded or driven hard, if you lower the car, and reduce the available wheel travel by 30mm, without changing anything then it will bottom out (Blow through all it's travel) harder and more often, this is bad. Fitting a stiffer spring (a torsion bar is a type of spring) counteracts to some extent the lowering. If you can couple this with a pair of Peugeot 205 Tarmac Grp N Bilstein dampers your back end will cope with pretty much anything you can throw at it.

________________________________________

R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.

Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
Engine mount/chassis repair
Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION
Harness bars
Posted 3rd Aug 2012 at 16:01
honestly3k

Seasoned Pro

Location: Berkhamsted

Registered: 06 Apr 2009

Posts: 2,390

Status: Offline

Post #15
Shame you dont live near Dorking, Surrey in the south.

Kris B lowered my torsion bar for £60. And did it the proper way by removing the torsion bars fully.

Also fits front shocks and springs for a pittance too....

£240 is a joke!

________________________________________

''Oh, it does handle like a golf!'' Why drive a Golf....when you can drive a GTi-6?
Posted 3rd Aug 2012 at 16:12
honestly3k

Seasoned Pro

Location: Berkhamsted

Registered: 06 Apr 2009

Posts: 2,390

Status: Offline

Post #16
Oh and my 6 is 30mm eibach springs and Bilstein B4's on the front and torsion bar down by 25mm to match....

Rolling currently on 16'' direct fit Ouragans which dont scrub unless you have a full boot of like 90KG (my work kit) and then 1 or 2 people sat in the back of the car also.

But it only rubbed the plastic and like daveyboy says, is more annoying than damaging....

But in my day to day use its perfectly fine. Even when there is enough weight in the car to cause the scrubbing it doesnt really bother me.....

________________________________________

''Oh, it does handle like a golf!'' Why drive a Golf....when you can drive a GTi-6?
Posted 3rd Aug 2012 at 16:14
daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

Location: Southampton

Registered: 01 Oct 2007

Posts: 8,648

Status: Offline

Post #17
honestly3k wrote:
Shame you dont live near Dorking, Surrey in the south.

Kris B lowered my torsion bar for £60. And did it the proper way by removing the torsion bars fully.

Also fits front shocks and springs for a pittance too....

£240 is a joke!


£60 is a joke, £240 for front and rear lowered at a garage, with overheads, staff, insurances and full workshop facilities (Ramps, press, oxy/acetylene etc) is reasonable these days. Most places round here want £50 an hour. I'd say there is easily 2-4 hours work there depending on whats siezed, snapped, f**ked under there.

________________________________________

R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.

Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
Engine mount/chassis repair
Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION
Harness bars
Posted 3rd Aug 2012 at 16:19
martin

Regular

Location: Glasgow

Registered: 15 Jan 2010

Posts: 103

Status: Offline

Post #18
Nice one davyboy .. Jord294 why do you need to live so far away mate!

eddie - what kind of service does seb provide for doing this?

I would be interested in going to a thicker 21mm bar seems the way forward.
Posted 3rd Aug 2012 at 16:24
eliotrw

Seasoned Pro

Location: Southwark

Registered: 18 Jul 2010

Posts: 4,864

Status: Offline

Post #19
Daveyboy was spot on there, except afaik know its 21% Razz
Im sure phillipm will be here to p**s on our facts and percentages in a mo though

I would say go for it my friend, the logic is there.
Stiffer front end. Less rear travel.
No stiffness at rear? NOWAI!

________________________________________

Ex- Phase 3 China GTi-6 T-Reg
Posted 3rd Aug 2012 at 16:30
daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

Location: Southampton

Registered: 01 Oct 2007

Posts: 8,648

Status: Offline

Post #20
martin wrote:
Nice one davyboy .. Jord294 why do you need to live so far away mate!

eddie - what kind of service does seb provide for doing this?

I would be interested in going to a thicker 21mm bar seems the way forward.


Jord can't do it anyway, hes been grounded by his local council and won't be allowed to play with cars again until he 2050 when his old knob of a neighbour finally dies.

________________________________________

R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.

Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
Engine mount/chassis repair
Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION
Harness bars
Posted 3rd Aug 2012 at 16:35
eliotrw

Seasoned Pro

Location: Southwark

Registered: 18 Jul 2010

Posts: 4,864

Status: Offline

Post #21
LMAO hope not, who will make my beam now... Smile

________________________________________

Ex- Phase 3 China GTi-6 T-Reg
Posted 3rd Aug 2012 at 16:39
jord294

Seasoned Pro

Location: somewhere in north wales

Registered: 09 Nov 2009

Posts: 3,110

Status: Offline

Post #22
What happens behind a closed garage door is my business. f**k that tosser across from me!!!

Axle building is still in progress Thumbs up

Sorting the one on the china at mo Wink

________________________________________

FRESHLY RE-FURBISHED GTI BEAMS
FITTING AND LOWERING AVAILABLE.
ALL AXLES BUILT USING GENUINE PEUGEOT PARTS

IF I'M NOT HERE, IT ONLY MEANS ONE THING.... I'M SOMEWHERE ELSE!
Posted 3rd Aug 2012 at 17:01
JWP EFi

Turbo Legend!

Location: edinburgh

Registered: 07 Mar 2010

Posts: 2,163

Status: Offline

Post #23
martin wrote:
Nice one davyboy .. Jord294 why do you need to live so far away mate!

eddie - what kind of service does seb provide for doing this?

I would be interested in going to a thicker 21mm bar seems the way forward.


PM sent
Posted 3rd Aug 2012 at 22:14
JWP EFi

Turbo Legend!

Location: edinburgh

Registered: 07 Mar 2010

Posts: 2,163

Status: Offline

Post #24
daveyboy wrote:
Ok, the torsion bars at the back are 20mm as standard (Someone WILL correct me if I'm wrong) going to a thicker 21mm bar effectively stiffens up the rear by 25% (Again, someone WILL be on to correct my aproximations)

Now, the standard rear setup bottoms out easily when loaded or driven hard, if you lower the car, and reduce the available wheel travel by 30mm, without changing anything then it will bottom out (Blow through all it's travel) harder and more often, this is bad. Fitting a stiffer spring (a torsion bar is a type of spring) counteracts to some extent the lowering. If you can couple this with a pair of Peugeot 205 Tarmac Grp N Bilstein dampers your back end will cope with pretty much anything you can throw at it.


standard TB's are 19mm mate
Posted 3rd Aug 2012 at 22:24
daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

Location: Southampton

Registered: 01 Oct 2007

Posts: 8,648

Status: Offline

Post #25
I said I'd be corrected, what took you so long? I swear this forum isn't what it used to be...

________________________________________

R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.

Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
Engine mount/chassis repair
Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION
Harness bars
Posted 3rd Aug 2012 at 22:27

Pages (2): [1] 2

All times are GMT. The time is now 00:39

The Peugeot GTi-6 & Rallye Owners Club - ©2024 all rights reserved.

Please Note: The views and opinions found herein are those of individuals, and not of The Peugeot 306 GTi-6 & Rallye Owners Club or any individuals involved.
No responsibility is taken or assumed for any comments or statements made on, or in relation to, this website. Please see our updated privacy policy.