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Author Subject: Over-tightened Wheel Bolt Rant!
mik

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Registered: 17 Feb 2011

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Post #1
So I've bent the wheel brace attempting to get the wheels off, and I call up today to tell the garage and to get them to agree to sort it out as they were the ones to put the wheels on 6 weeks ago after rear brake calipers/pads/backing plates replacement.

They agreed to sort it eventually, but first tried the line that "the wheels get corroded onto the hub".

"Yes maybe" I said - "but not in that timeframe" i.e. if the car has sat outside for a few years and driven in the salt every day, or parked in the sea or something, but it doesn't get driven in salt and is parked in a garage 95% of the time!

These wheel bolts were off the car 6 weeks ago - not exactly enough time to corrode on there - unless they cleaned all the copperslip off the bolts and dipped them in salt before reinstalling them.

And the wife's Ford Focus that has had a dozen days out of the weather in the last 4 years, and has been driven through the winter still has un-seized bolts (I checked) despite all of that.

So no it is not corrosion at all, it is some muppet tightening them up to 300 ft lb with a rattle gun. I wasn't born yesterday!

It annoys the living daylights out of me - effing Kwik-Fit did it last time (I know, I know, never again) but at least that time I managed to get them off again and didn't end up bending the wheel brace. So 2 out of 2 times the car has been to a garage in the last 12 months, the bolts have been overtightened.

How tight to tighten wheel bolts is pretty basic stuff, even I know that – what do they teach at mechanics’ school? Is it ridiculous health and safety stuff to overtighten them by 250% as a safety margin so they won’t fall off?

Rant over. Ah, that feels a bit better.

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Posted 12th Mar 2012 at 21:37
phillipm

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Post #2
No, cause overtightening is worse than undertightening 'em!

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Posted 12th Mar 2012 at 21:41
king of the hill

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Post #3
I,m sure your not meant to put copperslip on your wheel bolts.If anything better to slacken and retight the bolts every so often by handYes

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Posted 12th Mar 2012 at 21:47
bigbadbowen

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Post #4
Buy a proper wheel bolt bar or breaker bar job done.
Posted 12th Mar 2012 at 21:50
mik

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Post #5
king of the hill wrote:
I,m sure your not meant to put copperslip on your wheel bolts.If anything better to slacken and retight the bolts every so often by handYes


PO did it (car came from salty Scotland) and I never cleaned it off. I did scrape a whole lot of dried out copperslip and other stuff off the hub and wheel mating faces, which largely cured the steering wheel judder.

phillipm wrote:
No, cause overtightening is worse than undertightening 'em!


Do you mean because it might ruin the hub threads and lead to the possibility the bolts might snap off one day, not to mention the effect on the bolt hole tapers in the wheels?

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Posted 12th Mar 2012 at 21:59
daveyboy

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Post #6
No, it's because of the elasticity of the correctly torqued bolt that holds it in place. If the bolt gets over tightened it looses that springiness or stretch that helps it to stay securely fastened and it's much more likely to fail or snap when the time comes to undo it. And as for not copperslipping the wheel bolts, if you dont they seize in short order, anyone who says it makes them come loose obviously isn't familiar with the forces acting on a correctly tensioned fastner. If you were really worried (I'm not and I've copper slipped the wheel bolts on every vehicle I've ever owned or worked on and never once had an issue) you could apply a low strength non-setting thread lock, this would form a barrier to prevent galling and seizure, however it does make them difficult to remove as impact drivers like dry bolts, anything that gives and softens the blow makes them less effective. This means you usually end up winding them out by hand using a breaker bar.

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Posted 13th Mar 2012 at 03:07
davewagon

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Post #7
Are we talking about copperslipping the base of the bolts,

Surely not copperslipping the threads themselves??

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Posted 13th Mar 2012 at 06:51
welshpug!

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Post #8
davewagon wrote:
Are we talking about copperslipping the base of the bolts,

Surely not copperslipping the threads themselves??


both, why not?

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Posted 13th Mar 2012 at 07:42
fast_eddie

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Post #9
My second job is car servicing and over tightened bolts are a nightmare! These are the rules.... Hub to disk = light spray of copper spray. Disk to wheel = light brushing of copper paste and a light dusting of paste on the wheel nut threads. Always set wheel nuts to the right tightness using wrench.
Posted 13th Mar 2012 at 07:43
daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

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Post #10
davewagon wrote:
Are we talking about copperslipping the base of the bolts,

Surely not copperslipping the threads themselves??


We are, and don't call me Shirley.

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Posted 13th Mar 2012 at 08:10
jcphat

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Post #11
I just switched wheels (winter/summer) on my Skoda Yeti. I'd watched the Kwik fart guy fit them in November and he finished tightening with a torque wrench. All as it should be. I could undo them with a standard extendable wheel wrench but was defeated by the stupid locking nuts. The (VAG) adaptor requires inward pressure to keep it on and torque to undo them-just what an air gun provides.
I'm considering just junking the lockers as at the roadside I doubt I could do anything.

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Posted 13th Mar 2012 at 22:42
BrianM

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Post #12
I put a tiny bit of copper grease on the ends of the threads, Just makes life easier in future i've found AND keeps the inside of the hubs nice too. I've taken wheel bolts off my 306 recently that had no copper grease and felt like they'd been welded on. So i was all for the copper grease and just that extra wee quarter turn-type method Smile

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Posted 13th Mar 2012 at 22:49
davewagon

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Post #13
Well I didn't know you could copper slip the threads, gonna have to buy some of this stuff now!

More money to spend LOL

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Posted 14th Mar 2012 at 00:01
daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

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Post #14
Beats paying a mechanic to drill out seized bolts or replacement hubs Wink

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Posted 14th Mar 2012 at 00:29
m306

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Post #15
I've always copper greased the bolts and never had any problems

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Posted 14th Mar 2012 at 09:59
owain

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Post #16
m306 wrote:
I've always copper greased the bolts and never had any problems


+1, also tend to put a thin layer on the surface of the hub to stop the wheel sticking. Just don't slap it on so much that it sprays all over your brake discs.

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Posted 14th Mar 2012 at 10:30
rikky 🦔

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Post #17
i don't bother but never really had much of an issue... everyone surely has a rubber mallet to just whack the wheel off the hub anyway Unsure

also i'd ditch the spare wheel brace as it's rubbish

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Posted 14th Mar 2012 at 10:34
atterz

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Post #18
I use a slight smear of non-permenant thread lock and then tighten to torque.

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Posted 16th Mar 2012 at 17:59
eliotrw

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Post #19
rikky wrote:


also i'd ditch the spare wheel brace as it's rubbish

True. The angle is Possitively s**t so when you put power on it it pulls away from the bolts.

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Posted 16th Mar 2012 at 20:04
mik

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Post #20
Took it back to the garage to loosen - used big bar and bolts made an almighty "crack" noise as each one released, even though front ones were nowhere near as tight still trying to say they were seized. Mate, you know you overtightened them, best to just stop digging yourself a hole. He asked how tight I wanted them, I said "90 ft lb is fine". So he tightened them with a torque wrench.

Yes, the issue brace isn't that great (the Focus one is much better), but works OK if not overtightened.

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Posted 16th Mar 2012 at 22:16
buzzbrightyear

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Post #21
Focus and ford issued wheel braces are proper s**t.
We got a puncture the other night. Just up road from where we meet, we broke the oe issue one in the mOndeo boot after 1 stud so other lad walked to his car to get his brace(60 plate focus) and I broke that before it even loosened 1 bolt.
This was 3 in the morning on a housing estate with dogs barking like mad in houses around us, 4 of us trying to take a wheel off, must of looked well dodgy LOL

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Posted 17th Mar 2012 at 10:11
welshpug!

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Location: Bigend, Wales.

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Post #22
90 lbft?! LOL

they're meant to be at 63...

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Posted 17th Mar 2012 at 10:33
tvrfan007

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Post #23
haha you've just had them overtorqued anyway, 90lbft is way too much. 85Nm/63lb ft. Methinks you were thinking of 90Nm.

With copperslip i've done it the one time on each of my wheelbolts and it works a treat. I also copperslip the mating face of the wheel as just after I bought my HDi the tyre had only been changed 2K before and when I got a puncture i had to kick the crap out of the wheel to release it.

I carry a cross brace in the boot of the HDi as the wheel brace bent during the above and i've never trusted it since.

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Posted 17th Mar 2012 at 14:22
mik

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Post #24
tvrfan007 wrote:
haha you've just had them overtorqued anyway, 90lbft is way too much. 85Nm/63lb ft. Methinks you were thinking of 90Nm.


Ah FFS! Angry

*goes out to garage and sees if he can undo wheel bolts*

Well, even though 90 ft lb is (I realise now) too much I could still undo them without much effort - even using the bent wheel brace.

When I failed to undo them at the top of this thread before taking it back to the garage I put my back into it and heaved the living daylights out of them, and ended up standing my 6'4" 100kg frame on the wheel brace and bouncing up and down, with absolutely no effect except for bending the brace. So they must have been about 250+ ft lb before.

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Posted 17th Mar 2012 at 19:52
darkstar753

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Post #25
I did have to resort to the good old 5ft length of scaffold tube the other day after i had the wheels balanced

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Posted 17th Mar 2012 at 20:04

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