Post #20
As the others have mentioned, time in the seat is the more important than what bits are fitted on the car, so certainly at the beginning it would be better to do more events than buy better suspension.
I run 25mm torsion bars + 30mm arb and regularly drive my car to work on bumpy country lanes. The main problem is with very big bumps - you just run out of suspension travel. To give you an idea with 25mm bars the rear suspension has 80mm of droop! On the other hand good dampers keep it all in check and even when you get airborne the car just lands, grips and goes exactly where you want it to. Still I would say if I were to build suspension for such conditions – I would go for 23mm bars and use smaller ARB.
Not sure how important the camber on the rear is for a rally car, but again driving my car with 3deg & R888 on country lanes – the outside of the tyre warms up less than the inside.
I had an excellent experience with Black Art Designs suspension – so would highly recommend it. Everything is made to order based on the intended use of the car, corner weights etc (the class winning Rallycross 306 in The Parts Bin section has BAD coilovers at the front). Have a look in my project section for some pictures and feedback.
My suggested options would be:
Start-up setup
Front: Bilstein V36-4133/4 (306 B8) Eibach springs, Rear: Bilstein B46-1038 (205 Group N gravel), 21mm torsion bars.
Midway
Front: AST / BAD 1-way adjustable, Rear: Bilstein B46-2313 (205 Group A Tarmac), 23 or 25mm bars
Very good
AST / BAD 3-way adjustable, 23 or 25mm bars.
Ultimate ?
Proflex, Penske, etc
P.S. of course the best option is to convert the rear to turrets.
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Cherry Red Rallye Project thread
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