Looks like the majority of that will be underseal, just scrape off what you can and paint over it

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Bye bye Sundance Kid

Watch out for those fuel lines when welding though.

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Goldie the track car.

f*ck off, i've only got one eye at the minute! Looked superficial til i looked properly

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Bye bye Sundance Kid

Quite common for them to go there if the outlet gets dented/blocked, it's the drain through the chassis.

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- Bespoke rollcages/additions/adjustments. Half cages right up to complete custom spaceframes - MSA/FIA spec, CDS, ROPT, T45, etc - PM me
Email me!
Custom-made polybushes available - need an odd size or fitment? - anything from batch work to one-off pieces.

Mine has been jacked up on the chassis rails previously, got me worried now

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'98 Nile Blue 306 GTi 6

You will need to sandblast that area as it has lots of bubbles steel etc. If not then use some POR 15 rust paint, iv used it recently and like it a lot, then under-seal it all up.

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Pug fee`ver,

Pick a Bogey, buy a Pug.

Black 306 GTI 6 Standard, was 60k mileage, bargain!!

Clicky: [url =http://www.306gti6.com]click here[/url] remove the space between [url & =

Not in a position to sandblast (was planning to loosen with a screw driver and wire brush the hell out of it)
As for POR 15 rust seal looks good, but would hammerite direct to rust not do the same thing ?

Cheers I'll source some in the morning, thanks for info

which product did you use ? as on ebay there seems to be many different brands, I'm assuming there are all much the same as POR 15 sames to on them all

HERE is a direct link. No need to buy metal ready as yours has enough dints and rough surface for it to stick and gel too and all loose rust has gone. All thats needed is a good clean with some panel wipe, then clean over with dry paper toweling to get rid of any wipe still remaining. Then its ready to paint and get a smooth strong paint that will stick.

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Pug fee`ver,

Pick a Bogey, buy a Pug.

Black 306 GTI 6 Standard, was 60k mileage, bargain!!

Clicky: [url =http://www.306gti6.com]click here[/url] remove the space between [url & =

I used POR-15 in exactly the same area (luckily I've got no holes) and the rust is bubbling through it. Same with the sill and chassis rails. Prep was to wire brush and sand back to sound metal, but I did not remove all the rust as the instructions suggested that was all that was required - and that rust gave a good key for the POR-15. In any case, now I will have to scrape it all off and repaint. Have already removed it all from the boot floor.

While it might well be possible to get POR-15 to work properly (and you can find testimonials for it - but you can also find at least as many against it), everything needs to be _exactly_ right, and the blurb in the instructions is misleading in my view. E.g. on the one hand it says things along the lines of needing rust to give a good key and goes on straight over rust, but then it contradicts itself and talks about needing Marine Clean and Metal Ready (as far as I can see Metal Ready is some kind of converter somewhat similar to Hammerite Kurust).

On the plus side, POR-15 was very nice to use and it covered very well. Looked great when finished too - just didn't look so great a few months later.

The blurb says that it will not stick to previously-painted surfaces (I can confirm that) and will not stick to smooth steel without Metal Ready either. It also needs another POR-15 product ("Tie-Coat" ) if you want to over-coat it - which you will need to do as it changes colour (i.e. fades) in UV light. Adding the Marine Clean, Metal Ready and Tie Coat (if over-painting) it gets very expensive.

After my POR-15 failure experience I googled it and there are pages of raging debate about it on various forums here and in the US.

I ended up using Bilt Hamber Electrox primer (a heavy duty zinc primer which provides, like other high-zinc primers, cathodic rust prevention - a well-proven corrosion fighting concept on ships etc) after wire brushing, sanding and using Bilt Hamber De-ox gel to remove all rust back to shiny metal. I will over coat the zinc with a gloss black enamel which will help stop the salt sticking to the underside of the car - currently thinking about some kind of overpaintable stone chip between Electrox and enamel in vulnerable areas.

Some people may well have got excellent results with POR-15. My experience was that I did not, and my comments reflect this.

On another note, the chassis rails and the bits in your pic seem to rust more than the rest of the floor - same on mine. I've removed all the dodgy underseal in those parts behind the front wheels and the rust was under the underseal. Chassis rails (not the sill ones) seem quite soft and I would not use them for jacking.

My thread here: http://www.306gti6.com/forum/showthread.php?id=136766&page=3

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Cherry Rallye SOLD

I should have been clearer - removing rust with hard work and power tools is the only way forward, not coating it with things that purport to encapsulate or neutralise the rust, as POR-15 says to do. I spent 2 days under the rear of my car last week scraping, chiseling, sanding and putting remover on so the electrox went on over clean metal.

Converters are OK to neutralise invisible specks on otherwise clean shiny metal before painting, they will not penetrate rust to any degree, especially not the thick scale that we get under our salt-sprayed cars here in the UK.

Ref Metal Ready - read the wording in the instructions and blurb. It sounds much like a converter to me. https://www.por15.com/Data%20Sheets/metalreadyreg.pdf

POR-15 probably works OK on clean but pitted metal. In that case it should say so on the packaging/instructions.

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Cherry Rallye SOLD