Post #26
Why don't you just remove the 2 relay's ? ________________________________________
French military victories?Did you mean French military defeats?
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displaying posts 26 to 50 of 50
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| Author | Subject: How to remove ABS |
 oldbrownshoe
Seasoned Pro  Location: Holon Israel Registered: 08 Aug 2008 Posts: 1,795 Status: Offline |
Did you mean French military defeats? |
 Posted 6th Aug 2011 at 03:45
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coskev
Seasoned Pro  Location: Oswestry Registered: 01 Nov 2009 Posts: 3,132 Status: Offline |
Post #27
cwspellowe wrote: copper/nickel is easier to form iirc and supposed to last longer. Kunifer rings a bell? Copper/nickel does last longer,but is alot harder to form/flare  Need a decent flaring tool,not a cheap one that will do copper spot on  ________________________________________ Red GTB1756 powered Fabia VRS daily driver,LBSC Gti6 eater........Mac1 ZR R1 kit car build in progress. |
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Posted 6th Aug 2011 at 04:12
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coskev
Seasoned Pro Location: Oswestry Registered: 01 Nov 2009 Posts: 3,132 Status: Offline |
Post #28
cwspellowe wrote: If an MOT guy sees ABS sensors though will he not wonder why there's no ABS to test? Or is it a case of "It only has to be working if it's present" ? If doing a proper removal you will remove all sensors and put some blanking plates over the holes in hubs And remove the ABS wiring that runs to sensors  ________________________________________ Red GTB1756 powered Fabia VRS daily driver,LBSC Gti6 eater........Mac1 ZR R1 kit car build in progress. |
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Posted 6th Aug 2011 at 04:15
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rikky
🦔 Location: cheshire Registered: 28 Feb 2004 Posts: 26,796 Status: Offline |
Post #29
abs sensors make no odds whatsoevermine are still in the hubs and i deem mine a "proper removal", it's the same setup as above diagram using fully stainless pipe throughout and a wilwood lever bias valve abs is fully removable without any custom wiring or anything needed. simple unconnect it all from under the car and remove the full unit and pipework associated with it. never ever ever just remove a fuse to bypass the ABS. this is a very seriously stupid thing to do. also the first person to say "removing fuses stops your brake lights" gets a flying dragonkick some BTCC cars use the steel pipework if you want to get really pedantic.. ________________________________________ 306 rallye reproduction decals (full sets/individual decals) | 306 b-pillar textured vinyl weatherstrips306 slam panel esso stickers | 306 yellow / orange / pension fund red side door badges gti6 inlet manifold badges | 306 rear boot badges (p2/p3) winner of Extraction of toys from prams with outstanding vigour award 2009 [source: gti6 owners club] |
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Posted 6th Aug 2011 at 04:59
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phillipm
Seasoned Pro  Location: Rotherham Registered: 15 Oct 2006 Posts: 20,607 Status: Offline |
Post #30
I tend to use copper/nickel, it's stiffer, and more corrosion resistant. If you think Kunifer is bad though, wait until you find a car with stainless steel brake pipes, and try flaring that... ________________________________________ - Bespoke rollcages/additions/adjustments. Half cages right up to complete custom spaceframes - MSA/FIA spec, CDS, ROPT, T45, etc - PM meEmail me! Custom-made polybushes available - need an odd size or fitment? - anything from batch work to one-off pieces. |
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Posted 6th Aug 2011 at 05:01
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oldbrownshoe
Seasoned Pro Location: Holon Israel Registered: 08 Aug 2008 Posts: 1,795 Status: Offline |
Post #31
rikky wrote: never ever ever just remove a fuse to bypass the ABS. this is a very seriously stupid thing to do. also the first person to say "removing fuses stops your brake lights" gets a flying dragonkick Could you explain why don't you just remove the 2 relay's? ________________________________________ French military victories?Did you mean French military defeats? |
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Posted 6th Aug 2011 at 15:08
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owain
Seasoned Pro  Location: Essex Registered: 20 May 2009 Posts: 9,185 Status: Offline |
Post #32
oldbrownshoe wrote: Why don't you just remove the 2 relay's ?  This isn't Offtopic! Are you lost? ________________________________________ Membership expiring soon, get in contact on our new little forum project. |
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Posted 6th Aug 2011 at 14:42
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owain
Seasoned Pro Location: Essex Registered: 20 May 2009 Posts: 9,185 Status: Offline |
Post #33
All useful info people, ta  I've always just used copper and it's done me so far, so I'll probably just use that again as I know how to work with it and I know my flaring tool works with it too. Looks like I'll be ordering up some brass fittings when back from holiday then, if Swampmeister is still giving me the cold shoulder. ________________________________________ Membership expiring soon, get in contact on our new little forum project. |
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Posted 6th Aug 2011 at 14:48
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cwspellowe
Seasoned Pro  Location: Calderbank Registered: 19 Jul 2009 Posts: 6,496 Status: Offline |
Post #34
oldbrownshoe wrote: Why don't you just remove the 2 relay's ? Long story, but i need the space where the ABS pump is for something else ________________________________________ Bye bye Sundance Kid |
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Posted 6th Aug 2011 at 15:29
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oldbrownshoe
Seasoned Pro Location: Holon Israel Registered: 08 Aug 2008 Posts: 1,795 Status: Offline |
Post #35
That's a reason, but i was referring to rikky warning which imply that all sort of bad things will happen if someone mess with it's electric circuity.i used to unplug the relay's in the summer for years and never recall a problem what so ever with it's function. just wondered. ________________________________________ French military victories?Did you mean French military defeats? |
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Posted 6th Aug 2011 at 17:11
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oldbrownshoe
Seasoned Pro Location: Holon Israel Registered: 08 Aug 2008 Posts: 1,795 Status: Offline |
Post #36
owain wrote: oldbrownshoe wrote: Why don't you just remove the 2 relay's ? This isn't Offtopic! Are you lost? I really love the skillful way You beat the other girls To the thread bouquet. ________________________________________ French military victories?Did you mean French military defeats? |
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Posted 6th Aug 2011 at 17:36
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owain
Seasoned Pro Location: Essex Registered: 20 May 2009 Posts: 9,185 Status: Offline |
Post #37
oldbrownshoe wrote: I really love the skillful way You beat the other girls To the thread bouquet. Well I'm baffled. With regards to Rikky's post I don't really know either, but personally I'm looking to remove the lot not for functionality reasons, but for the weight/fluid saving. Therefore I'm removing to physically remove as much kit from the car as possible ________________________________________ Membership expiring soon, get in contact on our new little forum project. |
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Posted 6th Aug 2011 at 17:54
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coskev
Seasoned Pro Location: Oswestry Registered: 01 Nov 2009 Posts: 3,132 Status: Offline |
Post #38
rikky wrote: abs sensors make no odds whatsoever mine are still in the hubs and i deem mine a "proper removal", Didn't say the ABS sensors made any 'odds' did I?  If your happy with doing half a removal job so be it Just lazy/half arsed leaving the sensors in IMO. ________________________________________ Red GTB1756 powered Fabia VRS daily driver,LBSC Gti6 eater........Mac1 ZR R1 kit car build in progress. |
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Posted 7th Aug 2011 at 01:49
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prism7guy
Seasoned Pro  Location: DoncastAAAAARGH Registered: 13 Jan 2008 Posts: 4,640 Status: Offline |
Post #39
I left half of one of mine in as the bugger wouldnt come out and snapped.  ________________________________________ Goldie the track car. |
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Posted 7th Aug 2011 at 01:57
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phillipm
Seasoned Pro Location: Rotherham Registered: 15 Oct 2006 Posts: 20,607 Status: Offline |
Post #40
What's all this ABS stuff?  ________________________________________ - Bespoke rollcages/additions/adjustments. Half cages right up to complete custom spaceframes - MSA/FIA spec, CDS, ROPT, T45, etc - PM meEmail me! Custom-made polybushes available - need an odd size or fitment? - anything from batch work to one-off pieces. |
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Posted 7th Aug 2011 at 02:04
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owain
Seasoned Pro Location: Essex Registered: 20 May 2009 Posts: 9,185 Status: Offline |
Post #41
phillipm wrote: What's all this ABS stuff? I dunno, I wanted to get Abs, singer in boyband 5ive, out of my house, but everyone started banging on about brakes  ________________________________________ Membership expiring soon, get in contact on our new little forum project. |
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Posted 7th Aug 2011 at 02:26
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cwspellowe
Seasoned Pro Location: Calderbank Registered: 19 Jul 2009 Posts: 6,496 Status: Offline |
Post #42
Children children Right, shopping's done, need to get the brake lines made at a local motorfactor on Tuesday when am in town. Fronts - MC to t-piece, new lines to flexi's Rears - MC to bias valve mounted where battery used to be, single line to rear, t-piece to flexi's Lines will be 50p/foot + 50p/fitting. I'm using 31 feet all measured up, total cost comes to £21 for the lines and fittings which isn't bad imo ________________________________________ Bye bye Sundance Kid |
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Posted 8th Aug 2011 at 00:13
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owain
Seasoned Pro Location: Essex Registered: 20 May 2009 Posts: 9,185 Status: Offline |
Post #43
cwspellowe wrote: need to get the brake lines made at a local motorfactor on Tuesday when am in town. Do it yourself you big girl! cwspellowe wrote: MC to bias valve mounted where battery used to be What, like, under the bonnet?! EDIT: Oh, and where are you getting the t-pieces etc from? ________________________________________ Membership expiring soon, get in contact on our new little forum project. |
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Posted 8th Aug 2011 at 00:15
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cwspellowe
Seasoned Pro Location: Calderbank Registered: 19 Jul 2009 Posts: 6,496 Status: Offline |
Post #44
Got the t-pieces from an eBay shop, M10 female fittings, about £8 each? Will see how they hold up, if they're no good i'll buy from a reputable shop Valve will be under the bonnet as I have nowhere to put it in the car and I heard it's supposedly illegal to have a bias adjuster within reach of the driver on the road. Will mainly use one setting anyway once it's set up, just fiddled with for the MOT. **EDIT as for making the lines myself, in the long run yes it would be cost effective but if the lines are going to be around £20 and it's going to cost more than that for copper and a flare tool and fittings it's not economical, don't plan on making the lines more than once! ________________________________________ Bye bye Sundance Kid |
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Posted 8th Aug 2011 at 00:19
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owain
Seasoned Pro Location: Essex Registered: 20 May 2009 Posts: 9,185 Status: Offline |
Post #45
£8 sounds about right, not much less than that from DT or anywhere so they'll be fine. They're only tapped lumps of brass anyway, not like there's much to go wrong. What bias valve you going for? And if you could do me a favour - I'm off on holiday for a week, so if you could have it all bought, fitted and tested before I get back that'd be really handy, ta  ________________________________________ Membership expiring soon, get in contact on our new little forum project. |
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Posted 8th Aug 2011 at 00:27
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cwspellowe
Seasoned Pro Location: Calderbank Registered: 19 Jul 2009 Posts: 6,496 Status: Offline |
Post #46
One of these, it's a knob (giggle) type adjustment with M10 fittings and 60% bias adjustability. Was a PITA trying to find one that didn't use NPT fittings without getting bent over for an extra £20 or so. Also doesn't need fancy gubbins as it'll hardly be touched once it's set up, as long as it doesn't fail after a month i'll be happy Clicky for the twiddly thing Will let you know how it all holds up  ________________________________________ Bye bye Sundance Kid |
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Posted 8th Aug 2011 at 00:32
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owain
Seasoned Pro Location: Essex Registered: 20 May 2009 Posts: 9,185 Status: Offline |
Post #47
Yeah looks good, I'm sure it'll do the job. Best of luck ________________________________________ Membership expiring soon, get in contact on our new little forum project. |
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Posted 8th Aug 2011 at 00:34
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cwspellowe
Seasoned Pro Location: Calderbank Registered: 19 Jul 2009 Posts: 6,496 Status: Offline |
Post #48
If I don't review everything for you it's because i'm dead ________________________________________ Bye bye Sundance Kid |
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Posted 8th Aug 2011 at 00:35
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owain
Seasoned Pro Location: Essex Registered: 20 May 2009 Posts: 9,185 Status: Offline |
Post #49
Yes, don't forget new braking systems should be tested by getting up to great speed then slamming your foot on the brake hard, so you'll know if anything wasn't done up properly ________________________________________ Membership expiring soon, get in contact on our new little forum project. |
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Posted 8th Aug 2011 at 00:40
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cwspellowe
Seasoned Pro Location: Calderbank Registered: 19 Jul 2009 Posts: 6,496 Status: Offline |
Post #50
 reminds me of when a pipe burst 15 miles from home. Instead of doing the sensible thing and getting to the nearest garage, i drove home with the pedal getting softer and softer. Thankfully it was mostly motorway, only had to brake 3 times all the way home as I live just off the motorway  Downshift braking ftmfw  ________________________________________ Bye bye Sundance Kid |
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Posted 8th Aug 2011 at 00:45
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