Frickin hell Pellowe, stop living my life! I just came here to post up exactly THIS QUESTION.

As far as I know, everything's M10x1.0, but there are a few M12's connecting the rear beam. No idea why, and I'd plan on doing away with them.

My plan was:

1 - Copper line from one MC outlet, to a t-piece. One line goes each side, through the bulkhead with a grommet then to a male connector for the braided lines.

2 - Copper line from second MC outlet to bulkhead connector. Other side of bulkhead (inside car), run copper line to gear lever, install bias valve. Continue line to rear of car, another bulkhead connector through floor.

Below the panel, copper from bulkhead connector to t-piece, copper either way to male connectors for braided lines.

I seem to remember there being something about using the same material throughout, ie you shouldn't use brass connectors going into the cast iron brakes or something? Due to electrical differences causing corrosion?

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yeah, electrical something or other...

Not needing a bias valve as the car's not being tracked, keeping the compensator at the rear.

So are you plannning just one line to the rear with one bias valve? I'd have thought it'd be safer, although more effort, to have each MC outlet split front/rear, so one outlet feeds one front brake and one rear brake?

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Bye bye Sundance Kid

Is there a one-way valve in the MC outlets do you know? I.e. if you did what you'd suggested would that help? Or would a leak in the system just drop the pressure throughout anyway?

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Oh, and:





...seconds pass...

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Fair point, I don't really know how master cylinders work with pressures and vacuums and such. Hopefully soon someone other than the two people who are here because they don't know might answer.

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Choppy chop chop?

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Bye bye Sundance Kid

Pfft, just use water

If an MOT guy sees ABS sensors though will he not wonder why there's no ABS to test? Or is it a case of "It only has to be working if it's present" ?

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Bye bye Sundance Kid

According to my plans, I reckon you'd need:

1x Wilwood bias valve
2x T-Piece
2x Bulkhead connectors (4 if not using grommets in wings)

I already have pots of 10mm male and female connectors so didn't bother looking for those.

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abs loom is self contained, just unplugs, dont think youd need to cut a single wire.

the yellow coloured fittings are zinc passivated steel, you wont find much brass

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Bring on the Trumpets.

I did not learn much from this thread. Just gonna throw that one out there.

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I removed the ABS on my track car.
With regards to the question about doing one outlet to one front and the opposite rear it would be a PITA as you would need 2 bias valves, and then to set them to both be the same so there isnt loads of imbalance between the sides, if that makes sense, would also involve using more brake lines etc.

This is pretty much how i have mine setup:


I used brass T pieces, copper-nickel solid lines, swampy braided lines with stainless ends where possible except the two front flexi lines to the calipers, which are goodridge ones given to me.
I can't remember what material the unions are which i used for connecting my copper nickel lines to everything else, i bought them from Vehicle Wiring Products, i think they may be brass but i really can't remember.

All the joints in my setup were 10x1mm.

Hope this may have helped a little.

Just another note, i ran my solid line under the car and used swampy's braided lines to come into the car for the bias valve and back down again. I can't imagine that having a relatively delicate copper line inside the car with the risk of knocking/damaging it is a good idea.

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Goldie the track car.

copper/nickel is easier to form iirc and supposed to last longer. Kunifer rings a bell?

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Bye bye Sundance Kid