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Author Subject: Washing the 6
donny

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Location: Stoke on Trent

Registered: 06 Feb 2011

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Post #1
Right, this could be one of those question nominated for 'stupid question of the year' so i appologise in advance.... Whistle I did a search on here and got loads of info on products etc

I have a bianca 6 and its in need of a bloody good clean! The lads who saw it at germany can vouch for how it needs a clean so im getting on it!

Im wondering what order i should go about cleaning it and what products do people use for the job? As its white any special things i should do?

Really want to get it back to a decent standard!

Thanks in adavnce

Cheers

Donny
Posted 14th Jul 2011 at 02:05
poogiepug1

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Post #2
I found the paint renovator excellent to use to get it back to white, got all the grime out, but only used it the once as dont think its good to use all the time. I just wash and wax, went to clay it but got boredLOL

Bloody nightmare to keep clean these biancas

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Posted 14th Jul 2011 at 04:21
smegal

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Location: Leeds

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Post #3
Get down to autobrite in Fenton. They'll sort you out.

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Posted 14th Jul 2011 at 04:44
owain

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Post #4
Depends how far you want to go, if you stock up with all the proper stuff it'll sort you out for a good few washes, but it'll cost you well over a hundred quid.

Bilberry for the wheels
Autowash for the car
G101 for the details
Tardis for any stuck on bugs and tar
Clay to remove any crap
Lime Prime to clean the paint
Then various waxes and polishes to suit the colour

OR

Take it to the local Asda and get some Romanians to do a surprisingly good job for £8 Yes

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Posted 14th Jul 2011 at 13:00
donny

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Post #5
Sweet, i shall go autobrite this morning see what they say....

I took it the local romanians the other week, they did a great job on the inside but the outside seemed to be just wet..... think i need some stuff to remove oil finger print marks, grease etc then something to get the shine back as its started to go a mat colour.

Dont think the previous owner washed it......ever!!!

Donny
Posted 14th Jul 2011 at 13:06
lotek

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Location: Berkshire

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Post #6
invest in a good claybar Yes

it will make anything you do to the car after look 10 times better Yes
Posted 14th Jul 2011 at 13:25
owain

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Post #7
Wuuuuuuuuurd

Then drop it on the floor and have to throw it away.

I bought a half-decent DA polisher as well, makes paint correction and scratch removal infinitely easier.

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Posted 14th Jul 2011 at 13:27
donny

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Post #8
Guessing give it a bloody good wash first, then use the clay bar?

Will speak to the guys at autobrite today and see what they suggest!!

Donny
Posted 14th Jul 2011 at 13:35
owain

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Post #9
Yes, you really do need to get it properly clean. Not a once-over, not a bit of a scrub, but an actually good clean - any crap you leave behind will get scratched all over your paint when you come to clay or polish.

Snowfoam's pretty good if you've got a decent pressure washer, it actually forms a thick foam over the car which you can leave to soak for a few minutes.

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Posted 14th Jul 2011 at 13:41
jord294

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Post #10

i'm having trouble with my white wallye

gave it a 2 good washes and then clayed it

surprisingly nothing came off with the clay. the bodywork is very clean just a little flat looking

i set about with some autoglym SRP, which did get did of odd finger prints etc, but not a perfect job

the guy that gave my 309 gti a detail has recommended i try 'smartpolish' made by smartwax

he did test a little part on the roof of my car using a slightly damp polishing sponge, and there is a very noticeable difference Big grin

if i'm not completely happy with my results, i will then get the car machine polished

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Posted 14th Jul 2011 at 13:56
donny

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Post #11
Thats the problem im having, the paint is so flat its hard to get the marks off....

Im off to the shop in stoke that was mentioned above later, i will let you no what they say/i bought haha

Donny
Posted 14th Jul 2011 at 14:02
bennn

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Post #12
TBH mate i'd just have it machine polished, i got my black phase 3 done before i sold it and it looked fantastic.

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Posted 14th Jul 2011 at 14:08
owain

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Post #13
Well yes, but there are two issues. Firstly, it's expensive. You could buy all the chemicals and kit for the cost of a decent detail.

Secondly, you can only have a proper rotary polish a limited number of times before the paint gets too thin.

That's the kind of thing I'd maybe do once or twice in a car's lifetime, no more.

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Posted 14th Jul 2011 at 14:10
bennn

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Post #14
Well yes you could indeed buy all the products however personally I'd buy them, do it once and never use them ever again as I'm far to lazy so would be a false economy for me.

As for the second comment my friend who did the machine polish (and I'm pretty sure it was the cars first ever mop) said that you can do it as often as you like if you use the softer (don't know if thats right the word) polishes rather than the gritty stuff he used to get the scratches / swirl marks out of mine.

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Posted 14th Jul 2011 at 14:31
owain

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Post #15
If it's one you can do as often as you like, he's probably using a DA polisher rather than a rotary.

As you say they are far safer, but won't get as good a result as skimming off the top later of paint. However I completely agree it's only worth buying the stuff if you're going to do it a few times, if it's just a one-off you're best getting someone else on the case.

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Posted 14th Jul 2011 at 14:39
bennn

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Post #16
It was rotary in that it has a head that spins round but I'm not sure TBH. Did a very good job though by my p*ss-poor standards.

What's the difference between the two polishers? Is one faster than the other?

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Posted 14th Jul 2011 at 14:46
owain

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Post #17
DA basically just wobbles about a bit, it's extremely safe, takes off a minimal amount of material. Very good for home/amateur use and can get very good results.

The rotary ones literally just spin, and if you don't know what you're doing you'll be straight through to bare metal in a couple of seconds. They're the kind of thing you don't use until you've measured the paint thickness at various positions of the panel to make sure you don't leave the paint too thin.

They're normally used to get the factory orange-peel to being completely flat, ie they leave the paint *better* than it was when it left the factory. However as they remove a fair bit of material you can only do it once or twice on in a car's lifetime, and even then you need to be careful what products you use with it if the car has particularly thin paint.

I've used DA ones quite a bit, and I'd still never consider going anywhere near a rotary.

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Posted 14th Jul 2011 at 14:52
bennn

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Post #18
Well it was had a spinning head and you could adjust the speed on it so I assume it was a rotary one.

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Posted 14th Jul 2011 at 15:01
owain

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Post #19
Not necessarily, a DA head will spin when not in contact with a panel. And speed is also controllable.

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Posted 14th Jul 2011 at 15:04
bennn

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Post #20
Well I'm sure you know more than I do, I didn't even know there were different sorts!

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Posted 14th Jul 2011 at 15:08
cwspellowe

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Post #21
bennn wrote:
As for the second comment my friend who did the machine polish (and I'm pretty sure it was the cars first ever mop) said that you can do it as often as you like if you use the softer (don't know if thats right the word) polishes rather than the gritty stuff he used to get the scratches / swirl marks out of mine.


I hope he's either an amateur or a trainee with that logic? Removing swirls and scratches is done by removing a small amount of the clear coat (in the case of base - clear paint jobs). The deeper the scratch, the coarser the compound and pad required, and the more material is removed. Even using a finer compound will burn through, i've seen clear coat completely removed (burn through) by someone using G10 finishing compound and a rotary and that stuff's pretty fine!

As for you level of cleaning, depends how much you want to spend. AG Tar and Bug remover works well, as does the Meguiars clay bar. Don't just lightly rub it over the surface though, really muck in and keep it lubricated well.

I've been using Farecla G3 scratch remover and G10 finishing compound recently by hand giving half decent results, ideally though you should use a rotary for the first time. As owain said, only do it maybe twice the whole time you have the car, burning through the clear means respray time and take it from someone speaking from experience.. respraying's an avoidable ballache.

Once it's been detailed you just need a GOOD cleaning routine. Swirls don't appear naturally after a detail, they come from a bucket of fairy liquid and a 99p sponge. Check detailingworld, plenty of routines on there for any budget and/or skill level Thumbs up

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Posted 14th Jul 2011 at 16:10
smegal

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Post #22
How did you find autobrite? Hope you're not too skint now.

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Posted 15th Jul 2011 at 04:14
donny

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Location: Stoke on Trent

Registered: 06 Feb 2011

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Post #23
haha autobrite were first class mate thanks for the heads up!! top bloke there!!

Im now armed with, a de-greaser, shampoo, polish and wax.... i will hopefully put up some before and after pics on how i get on!!

He said see how they go, then once its clean then use a clay bar which makes sense really.

Plenty of work to be done now over the next week ready for a clean shiney 6 for oulton on next friday Big grin

Thanks again for the heads up!!

Donny,
Posted 15th Jul 2011 at 04:30
owain

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Post #24
Other mistake people make (as I did when I first did it properly) - don't try and do the entire car at once. Wash it all properly, but once you're getting into degreasing, claying, polishing and waxing just pick a panel, sort it, move on.

Trying to get the whole car clayed in one go takes forever, you'll just end up with products being on your paintwork for far too long drying out in the sun.

First time I did mine it took about six hours, so any less than that and you're slacking Wink

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Posted 15th Jul 2011 at 13:10
donny

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Post #25
Right, so 6 hours is the target!! Any beer consumed during this time? That could affect my time!! Big grin

Yeah i was planning on one panel at a time, but the weather looks gash for the weekend so might have to be next week now Sad

She is a sorry state at the moment but hopefully gleeming when i have finished!!!

Donny,
Posted 15th Jul 2011 at 13:18

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