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Author Subject: weight loss?/weight repositioing?
jimmyhackers

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Post #1
what kind of weight loss can i expect in kg if i get a carbon fiber bonnet a a full polycarb window kit?

i dont really want to strip out my car for weight loss, the leathers to nice. i did it in m old 1.4 and it took 2 seconds off the 0 - 6o Smile but it did transform the car visually into a nail.

im moving my battery to the boot. i was just wondering if there were any other cheeky things ive missed that willl still keep the car looking presentable and being funtional.

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Posted 24th Jun 2011 at 03:36
jimmyhackers

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Post #2
im shocked. 24 views and i havnt even recieved any abuse yet Sad

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Posted 24th Jun 2011 at 21:40
rallyeash

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Post #3
lightweight battery fitted in the boot, take the seats out, carpets out and remove all the underlay, sound deading etc then refit the carpet and seats. theres not a massive amount else todo and for the cost of c/f bonnet it aint worth it

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Posted 24th Jun 2011 at 21:46
eliotrw

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Post #4
c5 steelies would make a difference you would be down 4.5kg per corner and its unsprung wieght so its more effective when its gone. then you have other things that have little effect on overall weight but a big effect on the way a car goes like say a lightened flywheel and crank pulley.
but do you have a 6 because im not sure how readily avaible those are for other engines

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Posted 24th Jun 2011 at 22:39
owain

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Post #5
CF bonnet and poly windows will cost you best part of a grand, and the weight you'll save is probably less than the difference between a full and empty tank of fuel.

You really need to strip it properly or leave it alone, you really won't notice the difference.

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Posted 25th Jun 2011 at 00:44
rikky 🦔

Location: cheshire

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Post #6
owain is right

batter's best behind the front passenger seat area really

once you start though unless you go all out it's a pointless task i think.. and then it'll do your head in if you're using it as an everyday driver. it did my head in just having the seats out after about a month and i put them all back in. then stripped it. then did the same again and back to a bare shell + cage. no going back now Doh

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Posted 25th Jun 2011 at 01:41
jimmyhackers

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Post #7
fair points. as i said i dont want to strip out my car again so this are the next best things.

its about a grand i wont have to fork out for in the lifespan of the vehicle again. unlike engine rebuilds, new suspension, cambelt etc

only other bonus is if anyone tries to brick your windows theres a chance it might bounce back and smash them in the face

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Posted 25th Jun 2011 at 03:25
jimmyhackers

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Post #8
rikky wrote:
owain is right

batter's best behind the front passenger seat area really



thats where i put it in my 1.4. however you compromise the rear passenger footwell. anyone seen a battery that will fit under the front passenger seat?

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Posted 25th Jun 2011 at 03:27
phillipm

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Location: Rotherham

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Post #9
^^Lithium one would but £££'s

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Posted 25th Jun 2011 at 03:32
welshpug!

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Post #10
I'd just leave the battery where it is tbh, as it'll help get to the corner weights more balanced than if you sling it in the back.

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Posted 25th Jun 2011 at 03:50
jimmyhackers

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Post #11
owain wrote:
the weight you'll save is probably less than the difference between a full and empty tank of fuel.


this tanks weight of fuel however its situted quite high in the vehicle (windows/bonnet/battery) this would be a nice improvement in handling/grip as there will be less roll caused by a lower center of gravity?

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Posted 25th Jun 2011 at 04:08
phillipm

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Post #12
Battery is still pretty high in the boot tbh, with the added disadvantage that it's now possibly even further from the axis of yaw....

Either stick it behind the passenger seat or leave it alone. There's a 1000 other things to p*ss about with first.

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Posted 25th Jun 2011 at 04:27
owain

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Post #13
jimmyhackers wrote:
however its situted quite high in the vehicle (windows/bonnet/battery) this would be a nice improvement in handling/grip as there will be less roll caused by a lower center of gravity?


Again in theory, yes. In reality, it's not going to transform a car. As soon as you have a mate in the car, that'll raise up the centre of gravity again and counter it all.

Yes it all helps I agree, but for the money I genuinely don't think you'd notice anything.

Bear in mind as well with relocating the battery yes it's now about a foot lower, but you've also got a tonne of battery cable running through your car.

If you wanted to improve handling, take your thousand pounds get all the bushes and suspension replaced - it'll make a much bigger difference.

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Posted 25th Jun 2011 at 15:52
jimmyhackers

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Post #14
just the battery relocation in my old 1.4 made the steering lighter and the front end roll less. so c/f bonnet and p/c windows i figure will each make similar degrees of difference. for a grand from my point of view its worth it.

and you have to admit a black carbon fibre bonnet on a white phase one 306 will look rather dashing Big grin dont you agree?


ive weighed my cable and they come to 478g Razz

and yeah the suspension is one of the two main things to do along with full engine service. before any other "frivalous" modifications

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Posted 25th Jun 2011 at 23:56
owain

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Post #15
jimmyhackers wrote:
just the battery relocation in my old 1.4 made the steering lighter and the front end roll less


Can I get a Placeeeeeeeeboooooooooo

You battery weighs about 10kg. Your engine weighs about 300kg.

I'm not talking about giving your suspension a service, I mean for that kind of money you could upgrade to something pretty serious, the KW V2s I have for track would be well within your budget.

That is a frightening amount of money to spend on nothing, might as well make it count Yes

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Posted 26th Jun 2011 at 00:11
jimmyhackers

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Post #16
isnt most of that 300kg much lower down located in the bottom end? the battery is quite high and distance works out as a multiplier.

maybe it was more noticable in my 1.4 due to it being a much smaller lighter ally block?

and thanks but ive already ordered some coilovers. im fitting them myself. as far as i can see the rear torsion bar dismantling procedure looks the same as on my 1.4 which i did myself. am i correct? or is there anything i should watch out for?

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Posted 26th Jun 2011 at 00:46
gilesy

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Post #17
Mate.

Get over the battery moving already.

Quite high - its literally just over the top of the gearbox. Lose your spare wheel if you want to lose some weight or dare I say, folding your seats forward for optimum weight distribution will definitely make your car quicker Thumbs up
Posted 26th Jun 2011 at 21:14
owain

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Post #18
One thing I did think as well - you are aware that once you've changed to poly windows you can't actually open then again? They're normally rivetted in place, if you fixed them to the sliders they'd be scratched to buggery the first time you wound them down and up again.

The rears as well, lexan isn't rigid enough to form a watertight seal, so either they need to be fixed in place (and so won't open) or will p*ss water through.

Plastic windows are for track cars, for a road car just forget it Yes

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Posted 27th Jun 2011 at 02:52
jimmyhackers

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Post #19
fair point about scratching/ floppyness. hence why im going to go for the expensive hardcoating option. plastics for performance says this makes them nearly as tough/scratch resistant as glass.

once again like all my ideas/threads, im still going to do it despite what "popular" opinion says.

cheers anyways guys Smile

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Posted 1st Jul 2011 at 00:08
306weasel

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Post #20
jimmyhackers wrote:
fair point about scratching/ floppyness. hence why im going to go for the expensive hardcoating option. plastics for performance says this makes them nearly as tough/scratch resistant as glass.



I find this claim hard to believe. Hard coating polycarbonate makes it about as scratch resistant as resin. Hard coated resin is still slightly less scratch resistant than glass......

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Posted 1st Jul 2011 at 00:15
owain

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Post #21
I too would be extremely surprised if it doesn't scratch horribly, even the toughest plastics are no match for road grit.

Still good luck, if it works that'd be a result. Well, in that you'd have plastic windows, not that you'd notice a difference Wink

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Posted 1st Jul 2011 at 01:36
phillipm

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Post #22
It scratches horribly, hard coating or not.

Spend the money where it'll make more difference...



Ninja

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Posted 1st Jul 2011 at 02:22
jimmyhackers

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Post #23
already got some toyo proxies on my 205 1.9 gti alloys Smileand coilovers (in the box)Smile fitting them this weekend Smile

lower 50mm front 40mm rear Smile

goodbye 16 year old shagged dampers Smile

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Posted 1st Jul 2011 at 03:09
daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

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Post #24
Ohlins are'nt just dampers, they are M&S dampers Love

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Posted 1st Jul 2011 at 13:59
lotek

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Post #25
daveyboy wrote:
Phill's Ohlins are'nt just dampers, they are M&S Stolen dampers Love


LOL
Posted 1st Jul 2011 at 14:25

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