displaying posts 151 to 175 of 408

Pages (17): first .. 6 [7] 8 .. last

Author Subject: Mik's Rallye
mik

Seasoned Pro

Location: Kent

Registered: 17 Feb 2011

Posts: 2,100

Status: Offline

Post #151
Got the car back today, and there is now a lot more room in the garage as it is no longer full of Pug bits as they are all on the car!

I've got the new painted, wax injected subframe, new OE wishbones, struts, drop links, improved OE P-bushes all installed, all with new OE nuts and bolts, and got the (rusty and stoved in through incorrect jacking) chassis cross-members behind the front wheels replaced and coated with etchweld seam sealed and stone chip over the top. After it has properly gone off I'll paint the stone chip red. The old ones when cut off were clearly rusty on the inside, but no nasty rusty surprises elsewhere, which is good to know.

Next step is to blow a whole lot of Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 wax in there and the bottom part of the chassis rails by the bulkhead, as well as the chassis rails on the floorpan. Dynx UC clear wax will be applied to the whole of the underside, and it is already in the strut towers after rust treatment and painting.

Now all the rust has been removed from the underside except for the sills, once I get the covers off.

I also lifted the carpets and spent some some hammering the floor back down level, as someone had jacked it (before my ownership) on those bracket things behind the cross-members and it had pushed the floor on both sides up so the front carpets no longer fitted correctly - see pics for new level floors.

The car drives superbly now, it feels incredibly planted and direct - the garage guy was well impressed when he took it for a test drive, the all-new bits (all OE) make a big difference.

Now to get new tyres onto my C5 wheels for putting on the car in the New Year, but for now it is staying in the garage until the salt is no longer on the roads.

Apologies for the underside photos but they were taken in the dark.












________________________________________

Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 5th Dec 2012 at 19:37
mik

Seasoned Pro

Location: Kent

Registered: 17 Feb 2011

Posts: 2,100

Status: Offline

Post #152
Spent the last couple of days doing some bits and pieces; painted the inside footwells with stone chip and red, then got all the muck out from the underside frame rails with water-based cleaner degreaser, bottle brush and hose. After some drying time I blew Dinitrol RC900 aerosol rust converter in with a wand. I'll let that go off, then I'll shoot the frame rails with Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 cavity wax.

I've washed the underside of the car as well, and when there is less condensation in the garage at night will give it a light coat of red so it is all the same colour, then put Dynac UC clear wax over that.

Then I'm on the finishing straight except for waxing the painted rear wheel arches, and treating the sills, interior and exterior with Electrox, red paint and UC clear wax under the covers on the outside, and RC900 and S50 cavity wax on the inside. But those sill covers (and those PITA rivets) need to come off first.

A process roughly similar to what I've been doing is well-described here: http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&t=817605&d=0&nmt=

________________________________________

Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 23rd Dec 2012 at 14:02
rich306

Seasoned Pro

Location: Portsmouth

Registered: 09 Aug 2009

Posts: 1,834

Status: Offline

Post #153
I need to continue my rust proofing at some point - mainly next year when it's warmer i think lol.
i've already spotted areas under the car that need it.

Good work though so far if that's what you've been doing Smile

________________________________________

Richies Project Rallye

Electrical work carried out in Portsmouth

jamiek_uk2000 wrote:
You'll need to throw money at the car. Not on parts. Just stand near your car and throw loose change at it, I find this increases performance for a short period of time
- Top Tip!!!
Posted 23rd Dec 2012 at 14:20
mik

Seasoned Pro

Location: Kent

Registered: 17 Feb 2011

Posts: 2,100

Status: Offline

Post #154
Cheers.

Today I tidied up the underside of the bonnet and got touched in some peeling paint around the stamped holes, and on the edges. The front 1/3 of the bonnet underside really needs painting and will probably just get it done by the painter when I get the outside of the bonnet done in a month or so. I know most people wouldn't bother with this but I like a nice clean bonnet underside for some reason. Last year I ditched the nasty old bonnet liner thing.

I also drilled out the bottom row of rivets holding on the left sill side skirt. It is still attached by the top row in the door shut, but enough to see behind it. I'm pleased to say that it is all in good nick under there, with only some lifting paint and minor surface rust, especially at the front. I hope the other side is at least as good. Some dried mud came out behind the front wheels.

I haven't worked out what to do between the bottom of the wing and sill immediately behind the front wheels - it looks like a dirt trap between the 2 layers of metal. Might need to get the wings off too.

I'm going to clean the sills with Bilt Hamber Surfex HD to get rid of old dirt and salt, then sand back any rusty or peeling areas, which will be brush painted with Electrox zinc primer and overcoated with red enamel. The bottom seam will be similar, except it will get black stone chip over the Electrox on both sides.

When that has gone off the whole sill under the plastic liner will get 2 coats of Dynax UC clear wax. The inside of the sills is getting Dinitrol RC900 converter, then Dynax S50 cavity wax. I should be able to use the rivet holes to get it in there towards the rear (maybe need to slightly enlarge one of them), and there is a grommet in the inside sill under the footwell carpet at the front to get the lance in.

When I replace the skirts, I'm going to use stainless self tappers and washers instead of the factory rivets. That way I can remove them easily to flush out any mud once a year or so.

Photos to come in daylight.

________________________________________

Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 8th Apr 2018 at 18:09
coskev

Seasoned Pro

Location: Oswestry

Registered: 01 Nov 2009

Posts: 3,132

Status: Offline

Post #155
Riv-nuts would be a better option in the holesThumbs up

As you will need a massive screw to fill the hole that the rivets leave behind,and the metal is thin so a self tapper won't stay threaded for long once removed a couple of timesWink

________________________________________

Red GTB1756 powered Fabia VRS daily driver,LBSC Gti6 eater........

Mac1 ZR R1 kit car build in progress.
Posted 3rd Jan 2013 at 17:58
mik

Seasoned Pro

Location: Kent

Registered: 17 Feb 2011

Posts: 2,100

Status: Offline

Post #156
Ah, brilliant idea Kev. I've not used these before, but I just had a look and riv-nuts would be ideal as they provide a thread for easy disassembly/reassembly in the future.

I've also had a go at another Phase 3 stereo head unit surround. This is converting it by cutting away plastic at the top and bottom to enable it to fit other head units. I did one a few pages back and it looked OK but I cut too much off. And this time I had the Dremel cutter which made short work of it. I've done a much better fitting job this time and it looks great with my Blaupunkt - far better than the nasty Autoleads version. This was my first attempt - similar but better fitting now:


________________________________________

Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 3rd Jan 2013 at 19:13
coskev

Seasoned Pro

Location: Oswestry

Registered: 01 Nov 2009

Posts: 3,132

Status: Offline

Post #157
I've got one of these in the garageWink

http://www.memfast.co.uk/shop/vclose1.asp?prd=124019&cat=2258004632

Not sure what size riv-nuts I've got ATM,but when the time comes let me know and I could post it to you for you to useThumbs up

The guns that look like pop-rivet guns are a waste of timeYes

________________________________________

Red GTB1756 powered Fabia VRS daily driver,LBSC Gti6 eater........

Mac1 ZR R1 kit car build in progress.
Posted 3rd Jan 2013 at 22:17
mik

Seasoned Pro

Location: Kent

Registered: 17 Feb 2011

Posts: 2,100

Status: Offline

Post #158
Thanks Kev, I will definitely take you up on that.

________________________________________

Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 4th Jan 2013 at 00:08
rich306

Seasoned Pro

Location: Portsmouth

Registered: 09 Aug 2009

Posts: 1,834

Status: Offline

Post #159
I've bookmarked that page, i might invest in one of them sometime soon.

________________________________________

Richies Project Rallye

Electrical work carried out in Portsmouth

jamiek_uk2000 wrote:
You'll need to throw money at the car. Not on parts. Just stand near your car and throw loose change at it, I find this increases performance for a short period of time
- Top Tip!!!
Posted 4th Jan 2013 at 06:47
mik

Seasoned Pro

Location: Kent

Registered: 17 Feb 2011

Posts: 2,100

Status: Offline

Post #160
Here is the underside of the bonnet, with peeling patches primed ready for paint:



The front of the LH sill under the sill cover. Only the most minor surface rust - but do I need to look under the wing?



The worst of the rest of the rust - the galvanising has done a great job only needing minor touch-ups. I hope the RH side is the same. EDIT: Most of it is, but there is a nasty scabby bit at the front of the RH sill caused by a dent and mud trapped next to the metal under the skirt. Needs fixing so that will be done shortly.

________________________________________

Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 6th Jan 2013 at 23:06
silky

Seasoned Pro

Location: Chelmsford, Essex

Registered: 29 Dec 2002

Posts: 3,470

Status: Offline

Post #161
Good to meet you Mik. Good luck with the purchase, will keep my eye out for photos
Posted 10th Jan 2013 at 21:04
mik

Seasoned Pro

Location: Kent

Registered: 17 Feb 2011

Posts: 2,100

Status: Offline

Post #162
I got a leather interior from silky. The driver's seat needs a refurb, but there are no holes and it will come up well with a bit of work.

Today I finally got the sill covers off. Still need to get the rivets out, but the holes will be big enough to get the Dynax wand in before I put the nutserts in. It is all in good nick under there with very minor surface rust except for a bit on the driver's side where the sill has been dented in a bit (side skirt was un-damaged) which I will have to investigate and maybe a minor repair will be needed.

The 306 despite its lightweight construction is actually quite well made and does not seem to rust very much.

________________________________________

Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 16th Jan 2013 at 19:14
coskev

Seasoned Pro

Location: Oswestry

Registered: 01 Nov 2009

Posts: 3,132

Status: Offline

Post #163
Which interior you bought?Smile

I picked up a Ph1 set of seats off Dangti6 other week!Half leather ones,just getting the one repaired this weekWink

________________________________________

Red GTB1756 powered Fabia VRS daily driver,LBSC Gti6 eater........

Mac1 ZR R1 kit car build in progress.
Posted 16th Jan 2013 at 21:13
silky

Seasoned Pro

Location: Chelmsford, Essex

Registered: 29 Dec 2002

Posts: 3,470

Status: Offline

Post #164
The drivers does need a bit of work, but the others just need a good deep clean. Will be interested to see how they look once you're done with them
Posted 16th Jan 2013 at 21:28
mik

Seasoned Pro

Location: Kent

Registered: 17 Feb 2011

Posts: 2,100

Status: Offline

Post #165
It is P3 full leather, very nice nick as silky says. There was a P1 full leather re-trim on the bay but it was way too rich, but P1 bolsters would be nice.

Kev you putting the half leathers in your Rallye?

Also, were your nutserts for the sills M4? I've measured the hole diameter at 6mm, which equates to M4 nutserts from what I've researched.

________________________________________

Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 16th Jan 2013 at 22:45
coskev

Seasoned Pro

Location: Oswestry

Registered: 01 Nov 2009

Posts: 3,132

Status: Offline

Post #166
Yeah half leather going in mineThumbs up bit bored of the poverty spec cloth!Big grin

I put my sideskirts back on with rivetsRoll eyes I remember why now tooWhistle I broke the M4 riv-nut insertion tool,need to get a new oneYes

Thanks for reminding me!LOL

________________________________________

Red GTB1756 powered Fabia VRS daily driver,LBSC Gti6 eater........

Mac1 ZR R1 kit car build in progress.
Posted 16th Jan 2013 at 22:57
coskev

Seasoned Pro

Location: Oswestry

Registered: 01 Nov 2009

Posts: 3,132

Status: Offline

Post #167
So was full leather a optional extra in a Gti6?Dunno

If not which model had them fitted standard?Thumbs up

________________________________________

Red GTB1756 powered Fabia VRS daily driver,LBSC Gti6 eater........

Mac1 ZR R1 kit car build in progress.
Posted 16th Jan 2013 at 22:58
mik

Seasoned Pro

Location: Kent

Registered: 17 Feb 2011

Posts: 2,100

Status: Offline

Post #168
You would think so with it being the premier version in the range. I don't know which other models had it though.

Agree about getting tired of the poverty spec. I've been thinking about putting leather in it for a while.

________________________________________

Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 17th Jan 2013 at 18:03
mik

Seasoned Pro

Location: Kent

Registered: 17 Feb 2011

Posts: 2,100

Status: Offline

Post #169
Spent tonight cleaning up the OS sill after getting the skirts off. The NS and 3/4 of the OS sill are fine - only a tiny bit of surface rust that is a 5 min job to fix, but the front of the OS is dented in - it is not too bad but it has caused rust to start, I got a lot of (salty) mud out from between the sill and cover when I first bought the car but there is flaky stuff inside the sill and the bottom seam is a bit crunchy. The OS front just to the rear of the jacking point will need some metal welded in there. Afterwards, I'll shoot the sills full of Dynax S50 cavity wax. The bottom seam of the sills is being done with Electrox with black stone ship over the top, except for the jacking points which are being done with Etchweld primer with black stone chip for a more durable finish where the car is jacked. Electrox is excellent in most applications but does not have the best mechanical strength.

It was seriously cold in the garage. When the snow goes away I will dig around the sides of the garage to stop the dampness creeping in. There is earth about 2 bricks up the side and the DPC (damp-proof course - black stuff between 2 bricks to stop rising damp) is slightly below this height - developer just put down turf without regard to height. No wonder the floor slab is damp. I air it out daily to keep it slightly dry until I can dig it out.

________________________________________

Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 26th Jan 2013 at 01:07
mik

Seasoned Pro

Location: Kent

Registered: 17 Feb 2011

Posts: 2,100

Status: Offline

Post #170
Did a bit of work this afternoon cutting the side skirt rivet heads off in the sills. The great thing about the holes left over is their diameter is a good fit for the wax injection lances on the Bilt Hamber S50 wax I'm going to use, so I'll be able to get loads of cavity wax in the sills when the time cones. After wax injection I'll put the rivnuts in to screw the sill cover back on. Before any of that happens there is a bit of driver's side sill to repair.

The (slightly) warmer weather and consequent increase in temp out in the garage is most welcome. I'm sill considering buying a heater for it. My excuse is it will help paint go off better. Nothing to do with lying on cold concrete or anything.

I also dug out the rear and one side wall of the garage, as the soil was 1 - 2 bricks above the slab level. A recipe for wet, dank, mouldy, clammy dampness. To get rid of the dirt I dug up the turf in some of the low spots in the lawn and put the dirt in there re-laying the turf back on top. It all felt a bit Stalag Luft III style, though I didn't bother with the sausage bags in my trousers to sprinkle the dirt around. Lots of builders' debris though, bits of limestone, flint, wood and some blue screws I've kept just in case they come in handy.

Once the bricks dry out it might get a bit drier in there and all my cardboard boxes won't be so mushy and hopefully less condensation under the car. The other wall exterior is in the neighbour's section so need to decide whether I am going to ask him if I can dig up his back yard.

________________________________________

Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 27th Jan 2013 at 18:15
coskev

Seasoned Pro

Location: Oswestry

Registered: 01 Nov 2009

Posts: 3,132

Status: Offline

Post #171
Going to be a very well protected RallyeThumbs up

Whats your paintwork like?

Don't think we've ever seen pics of itWhistle

________________________________________

Red GTB1756 powered Fabia VRS daily driver,LBSC Gti6 eater........

Mac1 ZR R1 kit car build in progress.
Posted 27th Jan 2013 at 21:12
mik

Seasoned Pro

Location: Kent

Registered: 17 Feb 2011

Posts: 2,100

Status: Offline

Post #172
Covered in dust etc at the moment. Everything bar the (crazed - will be repainted) bonnet is really good and shiny, though the rear hatch has a bad blow-in and needs repainting. My new front bumper will be done at the same time.

Kev just for you here are a couple from 2011 - it has sat in a garage having lots of work on it since then:





________________________________________

Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 27th Jan 2013 at 22:42
coskev

Seasoned Pro

Location: Oswestry

Registered: 01 Nov 2009

Posts: 3,132

Status: Offline

Post #173
Thanks!Big grin

Looks a nice oneThumbs up

Well worth your hard work protecting itWink

________________________________________

Red GTB1756 powered Fabia VRS daily driver,LBSC Gti6 eater........

Mac1 ZR R1 kit car build in progress.
Posted 28th Jan 2013 at 06:33
mik

Seasoned Pro

Location: Kent

Registered: 17 Feb 2011

Posts: 2,100

Status: Offline

Post #174
Got plenty done tonight - finished painting the offside sill seam with black stone chip over Electrox, and wire brushed the nearside sill and painted 2 coats of Electrox on it, except for a bit that needs some rust removed with Deox gel.

Also shot some Dynax S50 wax into the chassis rails and transverse rail on bulkhead in engine compartment.

Going to shoot Dynax into the sills last, as I have to get the front bit of the OS sill cleaned up and welded.

Pics to come.

________________________________________

Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 4th Feb 2013 at 23:31
mik

Seasoned Pro

Location: Kent

Registered: 17 Feb 2011

Posts: 2,100

Status: Offline

Post #175
Got 2 C5 wheels on ebay, so together with the 4 I've got, now I have a spare for the car (no need to carry extra wheel bolts for the Cyclone under the car) and a, erm, "spare spare" in case I bend one on a pothole or something. Lots of potholes around here at the moment, hope they fix them soon.

When the weather gets better there will be a bit of wheel painting going on.

________________________________________

Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 10th Feb 2013 at 15:11

Pages (17): first .. 6 [7] 8 .. last

All times are GMT. The time is now 21:21

The Peugeot GTi-6 & Rallye Owners Club - ©2024 all rights reserved.

Please Note: The views and opinions found herein are those of individuals, and not of The Peugeot 306 GTi-6 & Rallye Owners Club or any individuals involved.
No responsibility is taken or assumed for any comments or statements made on, or in relation to, this website. Please see our updated privacy policy.