But the top mount FAQ has all the pics missing.
Dont suppose anyone has them or a link to a guide on how to do this job
Or anyone that knows the job wanna spend an afternoon helping me do mine while i make tea / pour beers
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displaying posts 1 to 25 of 35
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Author | Subject: Top mount FAQ piccies :unsure |
justinaccurate
Seasoned Pro Location: Cov Registered: 29 Apr 2006 Posts: 14,425 Status: Offline |
Post #1
I have been annoyed by a creak that I suspect from reading threads here is my top mount bearings. I dont mind having a go at stuff; I was worried that the spring compressors would be expensive but having seen they are about a tenner am thinking this might be a job I could have a go at...But the top mount FAQ has all the pics missing. Dont suppose anyone has them or a link to a guide on how to do this job Or anyone that knows the job wanna spend an afternoon helping me do mine while i make tea / pour beers |
Posted 20th Feb 2009 at 02:31
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dr-evil
Senior User Location: Crewe Registered: 20 Oct 2006 Posts: 901 Status: Offline |
Post #2
The spring compressing will be a two man job - esp. if you have spax springs - 'cause the jaws on the compressors will skid on the f*ckin rock'ard paint and try to kill you every ten seconds !!! Second person will need to hold the compressors while you wind them in and out (alternate between the two (or more) evenly).If you've got stock springs don't worry they are a piece of p*ss. Just grab as much spring as possible 'cause they are very long and will leave enough pressure in the remaining coil to make reassembly a swear-fest. Are you just replacing the bearing or you buying a 'complete' top mount kit (pugs top mount kit doesn't include the spring pan) ? As long as you keep track of the order that everything came off in and put it back that way (with new bits of course) - then you'll be fine - oh and remember the thick washer that sits on the top of the damper rod - its easy to forget while your sorting the order that the rest of the mount go's back on in ________________________________________ Cad Monkey will work for chocolate biscuits....I'm not kidding |
Posted 20th Feb 2009 at 05:04
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gilesy
Seasoned Pro Location: Greenwich - in that London Registered: 03 Apr 2006 Posts: 5,133 Status: Offline |
Post #3
I'd like someone to make up a "can work on helicopters but can't really do cars" guide for me on this!! |
Posted 20th Feb 2009 at 14:32
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greenbelt
Seasoned Pro Location: How's Life In London? Registered: 23 Apr 2006 Posts: 1,961 Status: Offline |
Post #4
Loosen the big strut top nut. You will need a 7mm allen key or similar to hold the rod and a deep offset spanner, 21mm I think.The usual stuff under the car, loosen wheelnuts, jack up car, wheel off, remove top droplink nut and free from shock mounting point Change sides Remove brake caliper and disc and the brackets for the abs/brake lines so that instead of this You have a bit of space to work Now comes the tricky bit where you have to compress the springs. I find it easiest to jack from the bottom of the balljoint and then attach the spring compressors when they are under quite a lot of tension. If the car starts to move off the axle stands you are in big trouble. BE CAREFUL and don't overdo it! Sorry, no pics for this bit as I was a bit preoccupied Soak the whole area around the bottom of the strut and the pinch bolt with wd40. Remove strut pinch bolt. Freeing the strut is quite easy if you use a large chisel and a BFOH When the bottomof the strut is free, undo the three smaller nuts in the engine bay to free and remove the complete strut. You should be looking at something like this. You might need to compress the springs a bit to get the top mount cradle and bearings free. Just be careful, you dont want it bouncing around off the walls while you duck for cover. Remember the order that everyting came off the strut when putting it back together. If you f*ck it up, don't blame me ________________________________________ Standard Black 6Black HBSC6 |
Posted 20th Feb 2009 at 16:02
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gilesy
Seasoned Pro Location: Greenwich - in that London Registered: 03 Apr 2006 Posts: 5,133 Status: Offline |
Post #5
Top bombing...I like it! Still haven't cashed your postal order!! |
Posted 20th Feb 2009 at 16:18
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greenbelt
Seasoned Pro Location: How's Life In London? Registered: 23 Apr 2006 Posts: 1,961 Status: Offline |
Post #6
And I still haven't fitted the second chock yet ________________________________________ Standard Black 6Black HBSC6 |
Posted 20th Feb 2009 at 16:22
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lukejenks101
Seasoned Pro Location: Bristol Registered: 15 Mar 2008 Posts: 5,694 Status: Offline |
Post #7
justinaccurate wrote: I have been annoyed by a creak that I suspect from reading threads here is my top mount bearings. I dont mind having a go at stuff; I was worried that the spring compressors would be expensive but having seen they are about a tenner am thinking this might be a job I could have a go at... But the top mount FAQ has all the pics missing. Dont suppose anyone has them or a link to a guide on how to do this job Or anyone that knows the job wanna spend an afternoon helping me do mine while i make tea / pour beers I could supply you a pair of genuine pug top mounts inc bearings for ________________________________________ PS3 I.D - jenkers101Live i.d - Lukejenks1201 |
Posted 20th Feb 2009 at 16:31
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justinaccurate
Seasoned Pro Location: Cov Registered: 29 Apr 2006 Posts: 14,425 Status: Offline |
Post #8
bloody hell greenbelt - fair play Luke - arent these about 20 quid from gsf? Are the genuine ones that much better? |
Posted 20th Feb 2009 at 17:49
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lukejenks101
Seasoned Pro Location: Bristol Registered: 15 Mar 2008 Posts: 5,694 Status: Offline |
Post #9
Dunno, but i paid ________________________________________ PS3 I.D - jenkers101Live i.d - Lukejenks1201 |
Posted 20th Feb 2009 at 19:35
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dr-evil
Senior User Location: Crewe Registered: 20 Oct 2006 Posts: 901 Status: Offline |
Post #10
Don't forget to undo the 18mm on the front of the wishbone so you can move it down off the strut.________________________________________ Cad Monkey will work for chocolate biscuits....I'm not kidding |
Posted 20th Feb 2009 at 20:38
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justinaccurate
Seasoned Pro Location: Cov Registered: 29 Apr 2006 Posts: 14,425 Status: Offline |
Post #11
In the end I bottled it and had carl do this job. A quick drive round the block and he said it was the drivers side top mount.To be fair I think its a pretty difficult job to do, after watching him I think I wouldn't have been able to do it. Carl did it slightly differently to the way in the FAQ. Dunno if i'll get in trouble for giving away trade secrets He left the caliper and disc on, hammered the hub off the strut, then undid the 3 bolts holding the strut in the engine bay, removed the drop link, then with the strut off he compressed the spring, undid the bolt off the top and swapped over the mount (2 man job to hold it in place and quickly do the nut up a bit) Even though my springs were replaced at the last MOT, the strut did not want to come free of the hub, I dont think I would be confident whacking away on my car . Then the drop link died (bolt siezed) and needed to be replaced. Anyway - problem solved, i'm sure I'll have literally dozens of trouble free motoring miles before the next problem |
Posted 10th Apr 2009 at 13:52
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sixygti2
Seasoned Pro Location: Tunbridge Wells Registered: 21 Apr 2007 Posts: 2,778 Status: Offline |
Post #12
So how long did it take carl to do it all? I will be atempting this today...i think...and am glad to read you dont have to remove calipers and disks! Also have balljoints and droplinks to fit too ________________________________________ Still watching you... |
Posted 10th Apr 2009 at 13:33
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justinaccurate
Seasoned Pro Location: Cov Registered: 29 Apr 2006 Posts: 14,425 Status: Offline |
Post #13
I suppose it was about 45 mins-1 hour, but the real time saver was that his air gun worked the spring compressor... |
Posted 10th Apr 2009 at 13:52
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buzzbrightyear
Seasoned Pro Location: hiding all receipts for car Registered: 09 Jul 2008 Posts: 11,901 Status: Offline |
Post #14
dr-evil wrote: Are you just replacing the bearing or you buying a 'complete' top mount kit (pugs top mount kit doesn't include the spring pan) hi, does the spring pan nead changing ???? ________________________________________ andrew315rawson@live.co.ukMoonstone phase 7 gti6 My Project thread: http://www.306gti6.com/forum/showthread.php?id=119992&page=1 |
Posted 9th Oct 2009 at 17:48
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willygti
Seasoned Pro Location: Exeter Registered: 08 Oct 2007 Posts: 5,024 Status: Offline |
Post #15
You don't need to compress the spring before you take the shock off the car.. you can remove the whole shock with top mount as one. Just undo the bolts which clamp the suspenson leg to the hub and pull the hub down ________________________________________ Team Ducati 7482003 Subaru Impreza STi |
Posted 10th Apr 2009 at 16:08
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phillipm
Seasoned Pro Location: Rotherham Registered: 15 Oct 2006 Posts: 20,607 Status: Offline |
Post #16
^That's the way I do it, far quicker.________________________________________ - Bespoke rollcages/additions/adjustments. Half cages right up to complete custom spaceframes - MSA/FIA spec, CDS, ROPT, T45, etc - PM meEmail me! Custom-made polybushes available - need an odd size or fitment? - anything from batch work to one-off pieces. |
Posted 10th Apr 2009 at 16:10
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willygti
Seasoned Pro Location: Exeter Registered: 08 Oct 2007 Posts: 5,024 Status: Offline |
Post #17
Amateurs ________________________________________ Team Ducati 7482003 Subaru Impreza STi |
Posted 10th Apr 2009 at 16:12
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sixygti2
Seasoned Pro Location: Tunbridge Wells Registered: 21 Apr 2007 Posts: 2,778 Status: Offline |
Post #18
Got this done yesterday, and yes getting everything fixed back onto the shock was indeed a swear fest for me, in the end got the passengers side done ok, with help from a mate, then he left and the drivers side didnt go so well for me.In the end the whole spring decided to come off so i had to start from scratch. And my mate came back to help again Anyway, its all done and just listening out for any more creaks/knocks from it now. Thanks to everyone who has posted up guides on this work, it made it so much easier for me. Now its done, i can see it is actually quite a straight forward job, but you never know til you do it ________________________________________ Still watching you... |
Posted 11th Apr 2009 at 21:35
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greenbelt
Seasoned Pro Location: How's Life In London? Registered: 23 Apr 2006 Posts: 1,961 Status: Offline |
Post #19
The first time is always the worst Next time it will be a doddle and you can take the short cuts the 'experts' suggest ________________________________________ Standard Black 6Black HBSC6 |
Posted 12th Apr 2009 at 00:39
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sixygti2
Seasoned Pro Location: Tunbridge Wells Registered: 21 Apr 2007 Posts: 2,778 Status: Offline |
Post #20
One thing i did notice though when I was trying to attach the pan and top mount to the strut, the strut rod kept dropping under its own weight, which made it quite frustrating when trying to bolt everything on! Is this normal or is it knackered? ________________________________________ Still watching you... |
Posted 12th Apr 2009 at 17:15
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daveyboy
aka Jim Davey Location: Southampton Registered: 01 Oct 2007 Posts: 8,648 Status: Offline |
Post #21
Normal unfortunately, was there any oil leaking from the seals?________________________________________ R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.Some of my services: (See my for sale threads) Engine mount/chassis repair Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION Harness bars |
Posted 12th Apr 2009 at 17:23
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sixygti2
Seasoned Pro Location: Tunbridge Wells Registered: 21 Apr 2007 Posts: 2,778 Status: Offline |
Post #22
No dont think so. will double check later though.Where can you buy standard shocks and springs from? ________________________________________ Still watching you... |
Posted 12th Apr 2009 at 17:31
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jonnie205
Seasoned Pro Location: Bicester Registered: 10 Apr 2005 Posts: 4,146 Status: Offline |
Post #23
yeah i leave caliper and all that on just undo the strut pinch bolt and knock hub off struts, undo drop link and 3 nuts on top mount and its off |
Posted 12th Apr 2009 at 17:38
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jamie192
Regular Location: ryde Registered: 14 May 2008 Posts: 180 Status: Offline |
Post #24
i changed my top mount over without even compressing the spring or taking it out. thats an even quicker way to do it, i must be a pro! Didnt take brakes or anything off just the wheel. |
Posted 15th Apr 2009 at 16:41
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cahillscornerflag
Senior User Location: Camelford, Cornwall. Registered: 12 Jan 2008 Posts: 587 Status: Offline |
Post #25
Resurecting an oldish thread... I started replacing the struts and springs after one snapped, for my new billies and eibachs today, I followed this faq as it's related, got to the part where you have to remove the strut from the hub, I 've removed the pinch bolt (b*stard thing) but i cannot for the life of me get the strut out. Am I missing something? Most of you fella's are saying it should just come out with little force, I've had the mallet out and WD40 on it for the best part of the afternoon and still no joy. Is there a specific way to remove the strut? I hope that all made sense as it proper twistin my melon Knew i should've paid some one to do it. ________________________________________ '00 Astor Grey GTi-6 - Regretfully sold!'89 Onyx Black 205 GTi 1.6 |
Posted 1st May 2009 at 02:10
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