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Author Subject: bypassing the Matrix
owain

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Post #26
rikky wrote:
B&Q... for.... ?!


Browsing plumbing parts to find something I can jubilee clip/attach to block off the exits.

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Posted 15th Jun 2011 at 04:46
rikky 🦔

Location: cheshire

Registered: 28 Feb 2004

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Post #27
ah

depending on the material you could weld them up, but mine were cast i think so they were welded [messily] and then joined via some short length of pipe in the end

last time i went to B&Q for plumbing stuff i ended up buying a load of black drainage and made potato cannons of varying length for months afterwards, without actually finishing the original plumbing job, driving round with 65mm fruit and 'ammo' in the boot, including Shockwaves blue hairspray and a bag of gas refills. never again. this is one of the underlying reasons the house next to my mum and dad's (which has been up for sale for a year) still hasn't sold - because we blasted a lucozade bottle right through the conservatory

hope this helps,
many thanks
rikky

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Posted 15th Jun 2011 at 04:53
owain

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Post #28
That is all very useful information Rikky, feel free to add any more you think of while the rest of us sleep, I'll catch up at work tomorrow.

I cannot weld.

Probably just a short length of pipe from each, some joiner and some jubbly clips. Just need to make sure it can't kink, although if it's not the only route for coolant that's not actually a concern any more.

So that's nice.

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Posted 15th Jun 2011 at 04:56
rikky 🦔

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Post #29
mine's kinked, makes no odds, it's only a tiny bit of water in there and it's not stopping flow anyway. water is coming from the radhose into the outlet regardless

fear not

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Posted 15th Jun 2011 at 04:58
owain

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Post #30
That's alright then, that was my main concern - looping a pipe over then finding it kinked and melted the engine.

Now someone with a thing for potato cannons and a completely different engine has told me it'll be fine I can really sleep well at night.

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Posted 15th Jun 2011 at 05:01
rikky 🦔

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Post #31
LOL

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Posted 15th Jun 2011 at 05:02
405gti6

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Post #32
Isnt it better to blank em off than join them anyway?

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Posted 21st Jun 2011 at 02:50
owain

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Post #33
Almost certainly, but I can't think of a decent way of doing do with the engine in. Easiest thing in the world to stick a bit of piping in the ends of the matrix pipe and jubilee them together.

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Posted 21st Jun 2011 at 02:57
daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

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Post #34
owain wrote:
Almost certainly, but I can't think of a decent way of doing do with the engine in. Easiest thing in the world to stick a bit of piping in the ends of the matrix pipe and jubilee them together.


Samco do hose bungs, they are like a piece of normal tube but with the end closed off, just buy the right size for the outlets on the termostat housing and jubilee them o. Although I looped mine out as I was told blanking it could cause a hot spot in the head, up to you though.

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Posted 22nd Jun 2011 at 02:25
owain

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Post #35
I was going to do something like that, but simply didn't know the ID I'd need. I guess I should really measure them up before I refill the system, obviously can't do it normally.

I don't see why it would cause any hot spots personally, the water would just circulate the engine as if the exits weren't there? Would have to see the inside of the engine I suppose.

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Posted 22nd Jun 2011 at 04:07
cwspellowe

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Post #36
I'm not sure if it's related but my temperature gauge jumps around a lot now since bypassing the matrix. My money's on it being a faulty sensor though, the needle went off the scale and the engine was barely warm.

Good ol' electrics shitting me up

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Posted 22nd Jun 2011 at 04:10
owain

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Post #37
Hmm, I'll definitely be keeping an eye on it. On the plus side, if I ever put in a decent water temp guage, I can stick the sensor in my little pipe loop.

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Posted 22nd Jun 2011 at 05:18
cwspellowe

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Post #38
I was planning on fitting digital oil and water temp gauges, my clocks are shite. Oil pressure gauge hasn't worked in about a year and looks like water temp is on its way out too.

On the plus side, the speedo is interchangeable with other phase 1 clocks what with it being analogue so mileage can be kept accurate with new clocks

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Posted 22nd Jun 2011 at 05:39
owain

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Post #39
I'll probably replace all the clocks eventually so I can do away with the standard dash altogether, unfortunately when dials cost about £50 each plus the sensor, it's no small job.

Even the Revotech analogue clock costs £45 Blink

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Posted 22nd Jun 2011 at 05:45
daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

Location: Southampton

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Post #40
owain wrote:
I'll probably replace all the clocks eventually so I can do away with the standard dash altogether, unfortunately when dials cost about £50 each plus the sensor, it's no small job.

Even the Revotech analogue clock costs £45 Blink


Tell me about it, I need a fuel guage and sender for mine, but bieng a tart, I can't have any old fuel guage, I want a Stack one to match my dash. Thats £80, then I need a sender for the fuel cell, but you cant have a normal one with the float on an arm cos the tank is filled with foam and it won't work, do you need a dip tube type one, £130. So thats £210 just to see how much fuel I've burned FML

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Posted 23rd Jun 2011 at 06:29
phillipm

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Post #41
Hose bungs eh?

I have loads of those.



Come in loads of different sizes too!

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Posted 23rd Jun 2011 at 06:34
daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

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Post #42
phillipm wrote:




quote:





Screw you Roll eyes LOL

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Engine mount/chassis repair
Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION
Harness bars
Posted 23rd Jun 2011 at 06:40

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