Post #26
what was that brake pipe like to change dude?________________________________________
andrew315rawson@live.co.ukMoonstone phase 7 gti6
My Project thread: http://www.306gti6.com/forum/showthread.php?id=119992&page=1
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| Author | Subject: braided brake hoses |
 buzzbrightyear
Seasoned Pro  Location: hiding all receipts for car Registered: 09 Jul 2008 Posts: 11,901 Status: Offline |
Moonstone phase 7 gti6 My Project thread: http://www.306gti6.com/forum/showthread.php?id=119992&page=1 |
 Posted 20th Jan 2010 at 06:07
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birk
Seasoned Pro  Location: Doncaster Registered: 24 Oct 2005 Posts: 7,032 Status: Offline |
Post #27
Ive done the brake lines on mine before, not that hard realy.________________________________________ Dimma + Gt35 turbo = Solid rear beam mounts £130 07889376885 Dan |
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Posted 20th Jan 2010 at 15:29
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buzzbrightyear
Seasoned Pro Location: hiding all receipts for car Registered: 09 Jul 2008 Posts: 11,901 Status: Offline |
Post #28
cool________________________________________ andrew315rawson@live.co.ukMoonstone phase 7 gti6 My Project thread: http://www.306gti6.com/forum/showthread.php?id=119992&page=1 |
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Posted 20th Jan 2010 at 18:01
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iplay
Seasoned Pro  Location: Number Wang Registered: 18 May 2006 Posts: 3,268 Status: Offline |
Post #29
andy+katie wrote: what was that brake pipe like to change dude? I was replacing the flexi hoses for goodridge and rounded off the brake line nut. Ended up hack sawing it out before making up my own pipe. It is essential to make sure the pipes are perpendicular to the union. It is difficult to make up the brake pipe with the engine inplace etc. Peugeot replacement brake pipe is a short version which comes through the bulkhead. If you want to keep original routing under the wing then |
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Posted 20th Jan 2010 at 18:37
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rallyestyle
Seasoned Pro  Location: London Registered: 23 Jul 2003 Posts: 14,990 Status: Offline |
Post #30
What are your braded lines attached to in your pic Neil? Reason i ask it is will probably fail the MOT if the actual brake line is not free to move without fouling anything else  ________________________________________ Just Drive It |
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Posted 20th Jan 2010 at 19:51
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buzzbrightyear
Seasoned Pro Location: hiding all receipts for car Registered: 09 Jul 2008 Posts: 11,901 Status: Offline |
Post #31
ffs cant belive it, decided to try and reuse the pipe today, got it tightened up only to find the pipe/nut dripping slightly when put under pressure.bah, now i cant get it undone its just slipping the mole grips off. bah gonna end up wasting a new braided line here. where has people rerouted the new pipe? is there a replacement available from pug? ________________________________________ andrew315rawson@live.co.ukMoonstone phase 7 gti6 My Project thread: http://www.306gti6.com/forum/showthread.php?id=119992&page=1 |
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Posted 21st Jan 2010 at 18:55
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smegal
Seasoned Pro  Location: Leeds Registered: 26 Dec 2005 Posts: 5,940 Status: Offline |
Post #32
rallyestyle wrote: What are your braded lines attached to in your pic Neil? Reason i ask it is will probably fail the MOT if the actual brake line is not free to move without fouling anything else I think they are clipped to the wear indicator wires. ________________________________________ Ex SC-6Now in a Megane R26 |
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Posted 21st Jan 2010 at 21:14
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smegal
Seasoned Pro Location: Leeds Registered: 26 Dec 2005 Posts: 5,940 Status: Offline |
Post #33
andy+katie wrote: ffs cant belive it, decided to try and reuse the pipe today, got it tightened up only to find the pipe/nut dripping slightly when put under pressure. bah, now i cant get it undone its just slipping the mole grips off. bah gonna end up wasting a new braided line here. where has people rerouted the new pipe? is there a replacement available from pug? Find a route to the next connector along, measure with string then go to any local motor factors and get a pipe made up. (IIRC it costs ________________________________________ Ex SC-6Now in a Megane R26 |
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Posted 21st Jan 2010 at 21:18
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smithers
Seasoned Pro  Location: Glasgow Registered: 22 Nov 2004 Posts: 1,016 Status: Offline |
Post #34
Got this exact same job to do at the weekend, im just going to split the pipe in the wheel arch and run a new section fron there.Did you fit the rear ones also, the two top unions on the back look a right c*nt to get to.  ________________________________________ 1997 Black GTi6smithers205 at hotmail.com |
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Posted 21st Jan 2010 at 22:58
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iplay
Seasoned Pro Location: Number Wang Registered: 18 May 2006 Posts: 3,268 Status: Offline |
Post #35
rallyestyle wrote: What are your braded lines attached to in your pic Neil? Reason i ask it is will probably fail the MOT if the actual brake line is not free to move without fouling anything else It is set-up just as a standard brake line. I reused all the Peugeot bits including the rubber grommet which fixes it into the hub and the spring with the 2 plastic clips which attach to the brake wear sensor lead. Brakes did 246KgF stopping each on the MOT test which almost threw the MOT tester through the windscreen  |
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Posted 22nd Jan 2010 at 03:33
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iplay
Seasoned Pro Location: Number Wang Registered: 18 May 2006 Posts: 3,268 Status: Offline |
Post #36
andy+katie wrote: ffs cant belive it, decided to try and reuse the pipe today, got it tightened up only to find the pipe/nut dripping slightly when put under pressure. bah, now i cant get it undone its just slipping the mole grips off. bah gonna end up wasting a new braided line here. where has people rerouted the new pipe? is there a replacement available from pug? Pug do a replacement but it is a shortened version which comes through the hole at the top of the wing arch. I then purchased some brake line and routed it the same as the original brake lines under the wing arch. Can't stress enough to make sure the brake lines are absolutely 90 degrees to the flexihose joint. You need a special brake spanner for this job and a normal spanner will round off the brake nuts. I leaned this after I rounded it off   The short version is peugeots replacement pipe which routes through the wing arch hole and not under. I cut out the original brake line. |
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Posted 22nd Jan 2010 at 03:34
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iplay
Seasoned Pro Location: Number Wang Registered: 18 May 2006 Posts: 3,268 Status: Offline |
Post #37
Misc photos of making up the front brake pipes. I used sockets to form the curves.  Started at the tricky end first. Routing it around the big round compressor thing? was difficult.  It clips into the inner wing  then bend it around under the body work and clipped in place. if i was doing it again i would use silicon to stop it ceasing up.  Red Arrow: V-tight fit but pushed OEM rubber spacer over goodridge hose so brake lines do not rattle on body work. Blue Arrow: Rubber Gromet holding flexihose into hub ... had to cut this in half to get it over the goodridge hose and then it clamps into the hub. |
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Posted 22nd Jan 2010 at 03:32
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iplay
Seasoned Pro Location: Number Wang Registered: 18 May 2006 Posts: 3,268 Status: Offline |
Post #38
smithers wrote: Got this exact same job to do at the weekend, im just going to split the pipe in the wheel arch and run a new section fron there. Did you fit the rear ones also, the two top unions on the back look a right c*nt to get to. lubricate the unions a week before you attempt the job. I had to replace the two rear pipes as they rounded off too    |
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Posted 22nd Jan 2010 at 03:37
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smegal
Seasoned Pro Location: Leeds Registered: 26 Dec 2005 Posts: 5,940 Status: Offline |
Post #39
Neil you could eat off that set up it is so clean. One day I will get round to tidying mine up. all going well mine should be going down to Lynx on the 29th. ________________________________________ Ex SC-6Now in a Megane R26 |
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Posted 22nd Jan 2010 at 04:29
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buzzbrightyear
Seasoned Pro Location: hiding all receipts for car Registered: 09 Jul 2008 Posts: 11,901 Status: Offline |
Post #40
f*ck me thats clean round that car, i thought id done a good job of mine until i seen these pics.is the brake pipe that you fitted from pug or made up at motor factors? thanks ________________________________________ andrew315rawson@live.co.ukMoonstone phase 7 gti6 My Project thread: http://www.306gti6.com/forum/showthread.php?id=119992&page=1 |
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Posted 22nd Jan 2010 at 14:00
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iplay
Seasoned Pro Location: Number Wang Registered: 18 May 2006 Posts: 3,268 Status: Offline |
Post #41
andy+katie wrote: f*ck me thats clean round that car, i thought id done a good job of mine until i seen these pics. is the brake pipe that you fitted from pug or made up at motor factors? thanks 90% of the car has been rebuilt over the last 3 years. The rear brake pipes are new from peugeot. They come preformed and painted black. The front is just a length of brake pipe which i formed. As a suggestion you could take the existing original brake pipe which goes under the body work and unclip it and reroute it through the inner wing/wheel arch hole (it is a shorter route) then cut it to length and buy a tool to create the unions. This saves doing the really tricky bit at the other end by the compressor. |
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Posted 22nd Jan 2010 at 19:03
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rallyestyle
Seasoned Pro Location: London Registered: 23 Jul 2003 Posts: 14,990 Status: Offline |
Post #42
iplay wrote: rallyestyle wrote: What are your braded lines attached to in your pic Neil? Reason i ask it is will probably fail the MOT if the actual brake line is not free to move without fouling anything else It is set-up just as a standard brake line. I reused all the Peugeot bits including the rubber grommet which fixes it into the hub and the spring with the 2 plastic clips which attach to the brake wear sensor lead. Brakes did 246KgF stopping each on the MOT test which almost threw the MOT tester through the windscreen Thats cool, as long as it passed. As smegal said it looks like you have got it clipped to the wear indicator wire to keep it tidy, i did something similar and the MOT tester told me it needed to move 100% freely without contacting any other wire or anything from full left/right lock. I guess he was just being pedantic  ________________________________________ Just Drive It |
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Posted 22nd Jan 2010 at 20:36
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rallyestyle
Seasoned Pro Location: London Registered: 23 Jul 2003 Posts: 14,990 Status: Offline |
Post #43
smegal wrote: Neil you could eat off that set up it is so clean. One day I will get round to tidying mine up. all going well mine should be going down to Lynx on the 29th. Sending it to the pro hey, im amazed mine is running so faultlessly since i did it myself  ________________________________________ Just Drive It |
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Posted 22nd Jan 2010 at 20:40
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smegal
Seasoned Pro Location: Leeds Registered: 26 Dec 2005 Posts: 5,940 Status: Offline |
Post #44
rallyestyle wrote: Sending it to the pro hey, im amazed mine is running so faultlessly since i did it myself Basically I've spent a LOT of money with Carl and wanted to try a bit of lynx. Variety being the spice of life etc. If I can just get my bloody intercooler and fans fitted and my wires extended. ________________________________________ Ex SC-6Now in a Megane R26 |
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Posted 22nd Jan 2010 at 21:52
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iplay
Seasoned Pro Location: Number Wang Registered: 18 May 2006 Posts: 3,268 Status: Offline |
Post #45
rallyestyle wrote: iplay wrote: rallyestyle wrote: What are your braded lines attached to in your pic Neil? Reason i ask it is will probably fail the MOT if the actual brake line is not free to move without fouling anything else It is set-up just as a standard brake line. I reused all the Peugeot bits including the rubber grommet which fixes it into the hub and the spring with the 2 plastic clips which attach to the brake wear sensor lead. Brakes did 246KgF stopping each on the MOT test which almost threw the MOT tester through the windscreen Thats cool, as long as it passed. As smegal said it looks like you have got it clipped to the wear indicator wire to keep it tidy, i did something similar and the MOT tester told me it needed to move 100% freely without contacting any other wire or anything from full left/right lock. I guess he was just being pedantic I am assuming that this is how peugeot set it up as standard? when i overhauled the brakes i used all the oem bits ... how do your sensor wires route? |
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Posted 23rd Jan 2010 at 06:04
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smegal
Seasoned Pro Location: Leeds Registered: 26 Dec 2005 Posts: 5,940 Status: Offline |
Post #46
I doubt he has any, the AP calipers won't use wear indicators.________________________________________ Ex SC-6Now in a Megane R26 |
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Posted 23rd Jan 2010 at 06:35
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buzzbrightyear
Seasoned Pro Location: hiding all receipts for car Registered: 09 Jul 2008 Posts: 11,901 Status: Offline |
Post #47
iplay wrote: andy+katie wrote: f*ck me thats clean round that car, i thought id done a good job of mine until i seen these pics. is the brake pipe that you fitted from pug or made up at motor factors? thanks 90% of the car has been rebuilt over the last 3 years. The rear brake pipes are new from peugeot. They come preformed and painted black. The front is just a length of brake pipe which i formed. As a suggestion you could take the existing original brake pipe which goes under the body work and unclip it and reroute it through the inner wing/wheel arch hole (it is a shorter route) then cut it to length and buy a tool to create the unions. This saves doing the really tricky bit at the other end by the compressor. if the tool to put the ends on the pipes isnt too dear im going to join it in thge whelel arch somewhere i think, good idea mate ________________________________________ andrew315rawson@live.co.ukMoonstone phase 7 gti6 My Project thread: http://www.306gti6.com/forum/showthread.php?id=119992&page=1 |
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Posted 23rd Jan 2010 at 06:46
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smegal
Seasoned Pro Location: Leeds Registered: 26 Dec 2005 Posts: 5,940 Status: Offline |
Post #48
A tool that will flare copper and cupro-nickel pipes is relatively cheap and portable, one that will do steel is about ________________________________________ Ex SC-6Now in a Megane R26 |
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Posted 23rd Jan 2010 at 06:56
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buzzbrightyear
Seasoned Pro Location: hiding all receipts for car Registered: 09 Jul 2008 Posts: 11,901 Status: Offline |
Post #49
any idea where to get one from?is this one any good for the job? or this ________________________________________ andrew315rawson@live.co.ukMoonstone phase 7 gti6 My Project thread: http://www.306gti6.com/forum/showthread.php?id=119992&page=1 |
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Posted 23rd Jan 2010 at 16:05
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mr swampy s16
**BAD SELLER**  Location: out and about Registered: 22 Oct 2003 Posts: 10,550 Status: Offline |
Post #50
Cant go wrong with sealey products! |
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Posted 23rd Jan 2010 at 16:42
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