Yeah, not the best thing to use on an alloy as the metal is so soft the wire brush will remove material you don't want removed as well as the paint you do want removed. Best to use a sander/paint stripper.

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R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.

Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
Engine mount/chassis repair
Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION
Harness bars

yes just need to sell a kidney

hopew it will be worth the extra

No waiting for my ginger piky mate to paint it

Right I havent update this for ages, the reason being I havent really done much to it.

Just been buying parts really, and running out of room under my bed and in my book shelf.

I brought one of Ashes hybrd ARBs, was going to go for a 30 mm one, but think this one will be better as will give a little movement in the rear.
Also brought a 310 brembo kits from Ash, just trying to find a set of calipers but will see, they come up on ebay quite a bit, but I keep loosing out on them.
Also brought a few bits from Frosts, like some P clips, plasticgauge and a cut off switch.
Brought a front bumper off of Ash(roland rat), and some alloy door cards, heater blanks and a dash centre off of Marc.
Any way as I got let down buy a friend today I had a free day so set about finishing off my doors and getting the door cards to fit.

First off I measured up the door card to the door and see what else I could cut out, once it was all marked up out came the angle grinder and the drivers side door got trimmed down some more.


I think i cut the top rail of the door under the window a little too high as it now a little flimsy, I didnt realise it was double skinned until it was cut out, but will just get Jim (daveyboy) to rebox it with some plate on tuesday.
Any way after I cut out the rest of the side impact bars and that I then cut a piece off my original door to make some patches up to make the top of the door look factory and not have the two holes, the one for the door pin and the other where the handle used to go.



Will be off to Jims tuesday to get those welded in.
So after I finished them I broke out the rubbber nuts, drill bits and started to attatch the door cards.
But disaster I opened up the bolts I ordered and I had ordered the wrong ones they where too short, but a quick trip to screw fix and got a box of nice stainless ones (where the only m4 socket nuts they stocked) and got some nice new 4mm drill bits.
so got back and started measuring and drilling away







I must say am quite impressed with the door cards, I trimmed a little off the sides so they fitted flush but they are good fit out the box, I also hammered the top over as looks better in my opinion.
I think I went a little over board with the amount of bolts I used, but oh well does look cool.
Tommorrow I will get the other side finished and this shouldnt take as long

100 percent, they have selant in them from the factory.
And wht bearings? the cams float!!!

So after spending my last 2 weekends helping dave rebuild his engine, thought I best get a move on with my project.

As I couldnt wait any longer for the rain to stop I went out in the garage and sorted my Bias box.
Cut the threads down on the Master cylinders and put it all together.
Took bloody ages to get the bias bar and stuff all lined up, after a lot of swearing and taking it all apart a few times I got it all together and fitted the bias box into the car.
I didnt take any pics as was too wet and cold but will do when it is taken apart.
So got the box fitted into the car, I used the gasket that is on the back of the original M/C, not sure it needed but its there so i used it.



But once was fitted the bloody bonnet would not shut and as I ordered the smallest resoviors I could find, but still wouldnt work.
So set about mounting the the resovoirs on the inner wing, but half way through realised it wouldnt work as the resovoirs are gravity fed and need to be above the M/C so I know it a bit crued but the bonnet got notched, this only temp as will be getting a carbon bonnet so not to worried it looks pants.


Who says cars are just bits of metal, mine really didnt like me cutting chunks out of here and cut me.


so then made up the pipes for the front brakes and ran them to the wheel arches.




The P clips I ordered are a little bit too large, so will need to order them, but as I am just mocking up for painting they will do the job for the time being.

awesome project read here chris

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Team allesclar ®

________________________________________

R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.

Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
Engine mount/chassis repair
Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION
Harness bars

I dont really like the raised look and will need to be raised a good inch as the Resovoirs arnt far off touching the outer skin

So got a knock on the door around lunch time and had a box from rally design.
I love the service of this comapny cant praise them enough as i only ordered them yesterday.

So first off I fitted the battery box, was not happy with just having it strapped down so fixed it down with rubber nuts and bolts.

what i dont get is battery sizes, the original battery fits in the box pretty good, but the new battery i have is a bit small.
I know daves new battery is smaller too.


i bloody forgot to feed the strap through before I bolted it down so will do that at some point probably
Also I continued piping the brakes after i got the right union, but not ran out of pipe so will buy som next week.



here is a couple of pics of the calpers and my genius Idea to get the pistons out.




and gave them a bath to finish cleaning them

Nice Shoes!! and happy Birthday

If I did that in the sink or indoor's I would get hung Drawn and quartered!!

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306 Rallye Sptint/Race Car, 205 CTI 1.9 8v to name a few

Road, Track and Race/Rally car preparation to your personal requirements,
Full Workshop & Diagnostic Facilities
New and Second parts, from Plugs to Turbo's
We now also carry out Routine Servicing
www.pugracing.com

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2012/2013/2014/2019 Class Winners at Gurston Down Speed Hillclimb & Joint overall, Class record too along the way,

So had a bit of a lay in today, but got my self out of bed and had a day on the car.

First job of the day was to fit the brake pipe bulkhead unions in the boot floor.



after the unions where fitted, I test fitted the rear braided hoses, (from Miles)



The rear beam is not completly buttoned down yet as still need to get new torsion bars, so no point running the pipes to where the calipers are until this is done, also I am not going to run the rest of the copper pipe in the car until the cage is fitted as I am not 100 percent where the cage will go.

So I then turned my attention to the dash, my alloy centre (from Marc) arrived in the end and I set about filing the edges slightly to give it a good fit and also removed the dash covering from arround the edge of the hole with a scraper so it is better a fit, after doing that I popped down to my local Metal supermarket to get some alloy angle and a sheet of 3mm mild steel. 50 bloody notes, was not impressed, but need the materials.

I set about cutting the angle to size and bending it to the right angle.

Bottom piece



the only one that can be 90 degrees is the bottom left one, so took a bit of fiddling to get all the angle to the right angle to fit the alloy properly.

The angle is just rivoted on, with a washer at the opposite end to stop the plastic cracking



Still have one more to do, but it got dark and started snowing.

but here is the dash with the supports in



and with the plate in place, its not a 2 year old drawing all over it, it was me marking the place to drill the holes and also trying a lay out for the switches and gauges I am happy with