displaying posts 1 to 15 of 15

Author Subject: Track based set up
blandy

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Location: Bucks

Registered: 25 Feb 2007

Posts: 2,437

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Post #1
What are people running for purely track work in terms of

Camber front and rear? Is more generally better? I’ve just cut out my turret tops in order to allow the full movement of the baker bm top mounts so max 3deg achievable now

Toe?
Spring rates?

Trying to concentrate on getting it to handle well

Posted 2nd Apr 2018 at 18:36
demondriverdan

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Location: Londinium

Registered: 29 Nov 2010

Posts: 2,665

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Post #2
2.5 degrees of camber all around
2 or 3 minutes of toe out at the front
0 toe at the rear
400lb front springs
23.5mm TBs
30mm ARB

________________________________________

Rallye Race Car
Posted 2nd Apr 2018 at 23:08
Day666

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Location: Bristol

Registered: 20 Apr 2013

Posts: 5,214

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Post #3
quote:
[quote="demondriverdan"]2.5 degrees of camber all around
2 or 3 minutes of toe out at the front
0 toe at the rear
400lb front springs
23.5mm TBs
30mm ARB



It’s all about your driving style Michael and opinions as always Thumbs up

2.5 degree front
Standard camber rear ...(you don’t want the rear to grip too much) ..
0 toe rear
Front 650Lb main springs with 200Lb progressive Lower springs

Solid rear mounts
25mm TBs rear
30arb
3ways rear dampers set to control 25 TBs ....more than Bilstein group A 306 poundage

Now... 40mm wider rear each side
Front 75mm wider each side
Posted 4th Apr 2018 at 13:29
prism7guy

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Location: DoncastAAAAARGH

Registered: 13 Jan 2008

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Post #4
2 degrees negative camber front.
Whatever springs came on my KW V2's, but i feel they're a bit soft personally.
Parallel toe front.
Extra caster.

Standard toe and camber rear.
21mm torsion bars (would prefer slightly stiffer)
30mm arb.

It goes alright round tracks, but i'm sure there's a lot of potential there for even more grip.
I used to run 3 degrees of negative camber at the front but felt like i was trading off too much straight line grip for mid-corner grip.

I agree with Damien though, a lot will be down to your driving style and preference. Don't always take every bit of advice as gospel as others may prefer their setup different to how you like it.

________________________________________

Goldie the track car.
Posted 3rd Apr 2018 at 17:44
blandy

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Location: Bucks

Registered: 25 Feb 2007

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Post #5
Well I’m pretty much a novice so looking for starting point really in theory I should have a decent set up with

Bc coilovers with 7kg (400 lb ) springs
Baker bm top mounts with up to 3deg camber available
Vibratechnics wishbone p bushes

Bc rear dampers
3deg rear camber arms
23mm torsion bars
30mm rear Arb
Solid beam mounts


Posted 3rd Apr 2018 at 21:25
fatlapit

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Location: STOCKSFIELD

Registered: 02 Nov 2010

Posts: 3,040

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Post #6
Zero toe on rear too mike

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Posted 3rd Apr 2018 at 20:45
demondriverdan

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Location: Londinium

Registered: 29 Nov 2010

Posts: 2,665

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Post #7
0 toe makes a big difference I think, when I had mine out last weekend I could really feel the back wanting to rotate. Admittedly last time I drove the car in the dry the rear beam was collapsing so my reference point is pretty low!

________________________________________

Rallye Race Car
Posted 3rd Apr 2018 at 23:27
blandy

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Location: Bucks

Registered: 25 Feb 2007

Posts: 2,437

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Post #8
what toe up front are people running?

Was playing with getting mine somewhere close to parallel over the weekend after replacing the offside inner steering rod as was bent..

Posted 4th Apr 2018 at 15:38
demondriverdan

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Location: Londinium

Registered: 29 Nov 2010

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Post #9
0.1 degree toe out up front

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Rallye Race Car
Posted 4th Apr 2018 at 15:55
fatlapit

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Location: STOCKSFIELD

Registered: 02 Nov 2010

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Post #10
Standard unless its wet then add some toe and take the drop links off

________________________________________


Posted 4th Apr 2018 at 20:16
Twangy

Senior User

Location: heswall

Registered: 27 Jun 2014

Posts: 623

Status: Offline

Post #11
quote:
[quote="fatlapit"]Standard unless its wet then add some toe and take the drop links off


as above , don't go to hard all round as changeable weather and to hard in wet will handle like a pig , you want a bit of compromise and softest compound tyres on the rear even in dry as arse end is only getting dragged round ,

________________________________________

wayne mcardle
Posted 4th Apr 2018 at 21:50
Twangy

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Location: heswall

Registered: 27 Jun 2014

Posts: 623

Status: Offline

Post #12
quote:
[quote="fatlapit"]Standard unless its wet then add some toe and take the drop links off


________________________________________

wayne mcardle
Posted 4th Apr 2018 at 21:51
adam b

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Location: The Nam

Registered: 24 Jan 2006

Posts: 12,828

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Post #13
-1.5 camber front
Standard rear (xsara vts arms)

Toe slight in front, naff all and parallel rear
As much castor as I can in the front (less camber as I've a quaife)

Mine doesn't run very low, -20mm on the rear, -45mm front with rubber beam mounts as I love the turn in and slide. And pretty soft springs due to road use

________________________________________

Nothing to see here
Posted 4th Apr 2018 at 21:58
blandy

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Location: Bucks

Registered: 25 Feb 2007

Posts: 2,437

Status: Offline

Post #14
Valuable info

A lot of my suspension was already there so trying to maximise what’s there - the fronts were originally 5kg so have upgraded the dampers and springs to 7kg which should better match the rear bars I beilieve.

I’ll have a play with front camber next time out as cut out the turret tops to give the full range of movement at the weekend so be interesting to feel the difference
Posted 5th Apr 2018 at 20:21
blandy

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Location: Bucks

Registered: 25 Feb 2007

Posts: 2,437

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Post #15
Forgot all about this thought may as well update - I did a day out at combe on the 13th and after setting it to -3deg at the f not to match the rear was concerned about stability but once out was very happy with the way it drove. I thought my 205 handled well but this was better. Still more to go but that’ll come with confidence
Posted 6th May 2018 at 19:57

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